Search results for query: *

I called AutoZone, I have a commercial account with them and got their 2D31 for $208! No shipping cost. The warehouse only had 1 so I got it and will check back when I'm ready to install. The machine shop wants $335 to clean, mag and pressure check.

That's right

HERE HERE. WHAT HE SAID(arrow pointing up to above response above). ( i got a vacation by responding to 1 of his posts)

Thank you for clarifying that. I have the right bell, the trans, and all the right clutch stuff, so looks like I’ll just need a Z-bar (and the 300 other things I don’t know I need yet).

For my front end rebuild, I was lucky enough to snag some meticulously refurbed LCAs from member @hemi71x . But they were so beautiful that I didn't want to re-install the janky old bolt-on sway bar tabs that have been on the car forever. I ordered a set of tabs from @BergmanAutoCraft ...

I found a moroso or milidon scraper for a small block chev fits small block mopar. bore spacing is same. have to trim it some to fit and drill mopar pan bolt pattern in it, also i cut the pan gasket to bunt up to it. then ran a silicone bead full length of block and pan, to seal it. just food...

#19 67 Grill inserts in nice shape. Have ALL 16 mounting bolts in tact and useable ! $75 And I'll toss in these brackets #20 Set of Early A Headlight assy. They even work ! $25 #21 M/C as a core $10 Not sure what size. #22 Early A heater motor. Tested good . $30...

selling our 6 pack setup off our running 340 auto. These ran well. Included is a new center carb I thought we needed but didn't. Purchased carb from Rocket Restorations. New K&N element. $2800.00 in Wilmington De.

Agree, the pilot bushing is the same. I was thinking of the crankshaft register surrounding the pilot hole. Which of course is not the same thing.

My deepest condolences to the Brewer Family, at this very trying time. Thanks to the Brewer family for all they do!

No sir. The pilot bushing is the same. The difference is the crankshaft register where the flywheel/flexplate mounts. I believe the split is 68 and up is the larger crank register and 67 and prior is the smaller. So you have to use the matching flywheel/flexplate/torque converter for the given...

Prayers sent, great people!

found

OK, if you're using the later flywheel with the early engine, I believe you're right. However, and I've not tried this with the O/D trans, but I used my original 65 170 3-speed flywheel with an early 70s slant six and a 65 4-speed bellhousing and trans. All I had to do was machine the center...

Probably cost more than a crate motor

Two or 4?

Let's say you eliminated back pressure altogether. Isn't back pressure needed to drive the turbo?

I'm helping a old guy sell this 64 Valiant Signet ? wagon, it is titled and has been off the road for well over 30 years. It's a factory 6 cylinder 3 speed on the column, body in pretty good shape, very little rust in lower right quarter panel,missing a few strips of chrome, and tailgate winow...

Different pilot size, I thought?

Get a big vat fill it when evapo-rust let it soak in it for a week or 2 take out slap it in the car and your good to go. :lol:

I knew that comment was going to bite me in the ***. I guess it depends on the person. Have one farmer friend , he has a 30’X50 heated shop, he has to clean up to get his snowmobile in. It would be 2 days before he could get his 1/2 ton in. Just don’t understand. A few more of my farmer friends...

I like the shape!

I'd stick with the solid lifter engine. The slant 6 was not designed as a hydraulic lifter engine and it makes a poor one, IMO.

Needle nose for removal and a section of 3/8 fuel tubing to reinstall. Maybe it was 5/16 …

I'm confused. What bushing would you need to adapt the O/D trans to your original slant? For the later flywheel? You can't use the original 66 flywheel?

Prayers sent

‘72 seat mount bracket for upper back seat.

Yep most farmers know and if you pick up a tool laying on the shop floor and say I think you misplaced it. Nope would be the answer and they would tell ya to leave it there. I can't do that and don't know how they do it.

Bumper brackets https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/news-years-cleanout.575149/

Calipers are fine, use the bleed screw furthest way from the brake line/inlet (the one closest to the hood of the car. They look like the ones doctor diff sells with the two bleed screws. I respectfully disagree with jcb426. No need for Teflon tape on the bleed screw. If they don’t leak...