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Follow up pics

Nice! What engine did that have? Something like a Cox 049?

Thanks to all of you for the quick reply’s. Pulled the heads, installed the lifters, cleaned all the surfaces and just finished torquing the heads back down. I’m using ARP head studs. Following there instructions and used there fastener lube I torqued the nuts down to 105lbs

Havnt used any of those heads in a while, last few sets were just stock replacement deals for stock magnum rebuilds, so no experience with intake fitment with the carbureted intakes.

Just ride it out.

I bought an auto meter. Seemed to work well on the run stand. Small adjustments were obvious. Just make sure that you get a wide band. I've seen narrow band units cheap but they won't do what you want them to do......Something about the range.

Innovate Wideband, dont buy a Lambda sond system.

Ok, headers and exhaust are all done. Drive shaft showed up too!

Fuel pressure 100% will bend the tangs for the float on some carbs. Huge problem on the older Jeeps with the inline 6 and the Carter carbs. 6 psi is all it takes with that carb. The needle gets forced back The floats are all the way up and there's no movement left. You can put brand new float...

That's what I am inquiring about. I just don't want to crank the **** out of the top bolts to get it to sit right unless that's what you have to do. I don't want to damage it.

Just as the title says. Must be rust and nick free.

Like these.

i don't know of any rear disc set ups that clear 14" wheels

Yup, all the way down. When I pull the bolts, the mounting boss drops down right past the hole leaving the hole covered with the "non slotted" part of the boss.

7 hours in 15 degree weather, getting the Cummins all back together… go to put coolant in….

100%. I've witnessed exactly what you're describing with fuel pressure bending the float tabs. Huge issue with the Carter carbs in the Jeep world. 4 psi max. The fuel filter controls pressure, and nobody checks fuel pressure after they replace it. 6 PSI, and the carb won't last a month. So...

So, the factory specs that are for bias ply tires, and call for positive camber and negative caster. Or, in other words, the exact specs that the QA1 UCA’s are manufactured to correct. The design of the QA1 UCA’s adds positive caster, and allows for negative camber at the same time. The specs...

are... are you doing what i think you're doing?

Go up 5 ft.lb.on head bolts this time around.

I'm thinking of purchasing air fuel ratio sensor to help with my tuning. I've never had one so I would welcome any tips on what I should buy and what I should expect.

Not good news, sorry to hear this they are family.

not sure i'd believe anything the tech said.

^^^^WOW!

I suspect NC EB has probably used the Magnum style version? Any issues youre aware of using the universal Chinese RPM intakes on those?

I had one of these- a Testor's Sprite Indy tether car. I remember having to save up 800 or so bottle cap seals for it. Raided a lot of vending machine cap bins (remember those?) for months and drank more Sprite than I care to think of, but eventually it happened!

I’m guessing they located the bolt holes so the intake will bolt on……..without consideration for the port alignment. If the bolt holes were raised .200 to be correct for the ports, the intake won’t bolt on.

Id say the 0.030 off is within tolerance of what intakes can absorb. the entire port 0.200" off however.....

Hello all, Read 40 pages of the 8.8 swap thread. I didn't get a good sense of whether the explorer disk brake setup will clear the 14" mopar OG road wheels. (Magnum 500 style) They are Mopar road wheels out of a 73 charger that had front disk brakes. They DO clear my factory '73 dart front...

Yeah, that sucks! Makes it a total cluster f$#k

the 78 280Z I bought at the dealership for $200. wish it had been a 5-speed though