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I dissected these sheetmetal pieces off a 64 Dart.All in good useable condition. Torsion bar crossmember- $150 Upper firewall. $150 Right frame rail $150 Right inner fender. $125 Radiator support. $100 Will make a deal if multiple pieces wanted or local pickup ! +shipping from FL PayPal F&F

i don't know where they fly the fixed wing stuff out of, but i'm next to the Van Nuys airport and they been rolling the twin rotor hueys big since last night. i can't imagine anything up in the air for most of yesterday. it was absolutely unimaginable and breath taking at the same time.

Take fresh air from the cowl chamber. I'm on my phone now so I am not going to look for it, but there's a guy here who was taking fresh air from there on his car. The ducting looks ugly as ****, but if it's stupid and it works, it ain't really all that stupid.

Need to sell will take 1600 obo all there except tailgait grill have extras with it also has title already listed just couldn't figure out how to edit make a nice ride

Stock 340s dont rev 6900 in 4th thats 165 mph Valve float way before that Drag limited no shot The amount of hp to reach 165 is crazy stock 340s make at best 340 hp with the big carb downhill with the wind my math is fine unlke your tach

i'm a foster's freeze man myself.

Thanks guys. Notes taken

I'm saying it would look wrong, about like the young kid in my high school that put chrome traction bars on his nice 66 Mustang BACKWARDS-he was the laughing stock in high school. So in other words, you'll probably get called a dumbass a few times.:rofl:

Need to sell will take 1500

Two Small bolt 10” front drums with Hubs. Miked both at 10.040, one is pretty rusty as shown. Will sell one or two. $75 shipped for both or $40 for one shipped from 94583. Thanks, Steve

It will keep me out for sure!

:lol:

The 340 cam intakes at .050 were around 210-212 for auto and 220-222 for the 4 speed. Must have been the .85 of adv duration deal they used to use in that spreadsheet? Cool spreadsheet. Had a few results from a cam doctor. The old reliable 214/224 was bigger than a stock auto cam.

Simple prep work to hopefully go to the track this weekend. Drop exhaust, swap to the slicks, safety checks, etc, etc. Routine tasks for a dual purpose car! Hopefully my lowering of the rear by an inch+ won't negatively affect the hit. We shall see...

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If you have an automatic, therefore the clutch pushrod hole is plugged, I was able to get my HP connectors fished through there. It is over at far left of firewall, an oblong plug

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Mine was NOT a 73 car or motor or 4000lbs. It was a 68 formula S 4 speed with 27+ inch tires 3.23 gears and still pulling at over 6500 rpm. And the tach checked good to my Snap-on meter. You figure it out. Or are you math limited too. :poke:

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I always just have to resort to an online search https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/something-to-help-decode-your-vin-and-fender-tag-1968-only.206692/ Do you have a service manual? You can download them free, from MyMopar.com. the VIN decode and other info is right there...

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Those 70 scoops look terrible on a 68 dart anyway in my opinion, turning them around backwards is just gonna look exponentially worse.

It'sa little ugly right now since we are in the process of slicking out the firewall, and is has a rough coat of duraglas filler.

RockAuto is showing one aftermarket one left for under $200. Better than the OEM one for $700+, assuming it isn't junk. But I don't think it will work without the TC cover and oil pan. So bullet dodged there?? I am convinced though that it would all bolt up and fit though. What I found was...

Ah, that would make more sense. I was thinking that the original block off had been around a long time. Not sure what you'd gain out of blocking off the adapter unless you had to run it for some other reason.

I feel dumb. For all the work and time spent on my car, I really don't understand my fender tag. HELP! Car is a 1968 Barracuda, original 383, 4-sp. Here is the fender tag, please teach me how to decipher it. Thanks guys.