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Simple prep work to hopefully go to the track this weekend. Drop exhaust, swap to the slicks, safety checks, etc, etc. Routine tasks for a dual purpose car! Hopefully my lowering of the rear by an inch+ won't negatively affect the hit. We shall see...

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If you have an automatic, therefore the clutch pushrod hole is plugged, I was able to get my HP connectors fished through there. It is over at far left of firewall, an oblong plug

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Mine was NOT a 73 car or motor or 4000lbs. It was a 68 formula S 4 speed with 27+ inch tires 3.23 gears and still pulling at over 6500 rpm. And the tach checked good to my Snap-on meter. You figure it out. Or are you math limited too. :poke:

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I always just have to resort to an online search https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/something-to-help-decode-your-vin-and-fender-tag-1968-only.206692/ Do you have a service manual? You can download them free, from MyMopar.com. the VIN decode and other info is right there...

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Those 70 scoops look terrible on a 68 dart anyway in my opinion, turning them around backwards is just gonna look exponentially worse.

It'sa little ugly right now since we are in the process of slicking out the firewall, and is has a rough coat of duraglas filler.

RockAuto is showing one aftermarket one left for under $200. Better than the OEM one for $700+, assuming it isn't junk. But I don't think it will work without the TC cover and oil pan. So bullet dodged there?? I am convinced though that it would all bolt up and fit though. What I found was...

Ah, that would make more sense. I was thinking that the original block off had been around a long time. Not sure what you'd gain out of blocking off the adapter unless you had to run it for some other reason.

I feel dumb. For all the work and time spent on my car, I really don't understand my fender tag. HELP! Car is a 1968 Barracuda, original 383, 4-sp. Here is the fender tag, please teach me how to decipher it. Thanks guys.

Have you priced a HC water pump? Go have a look and let me know your thoughts :) I'd probably still have to fab other ****, using it too. I just finished fab'n my own throttle pedal mount.. I'll sell the USCT one. I'm sure it's fine for someone else. I just need boot room! There is no damn easy...

Pair of original 1972 Plymouth Duster/ Scamp fenders from my 340 car. Generally solid and useable with some work. Mostly original paint and stripe except for dog leg area on drivers side. Some repair needed along inner fender lips. Includes top side turn signal indicators and headlight buckets...

I got the engine compartment sprayed today.

The VVT motors have the same options. And that is the easier way to do it if you want to run a remote filter. Using the TRX adapter to make a remote filter setup is probably a more difficult, expensive and complex way to do it.

I do not know what these rods are, but I replaced them with Molnar H-beams. Over 4 lbs taken out after rebalanced. Hemi. Look at how it was balanced. There was lead behind the Mallory slugs and then the welded weight at the flange. Get on a diet.

One of my buddies from MN is a bomber captain, last I talked to him they're still on the ground.

Also mounted my old go pro to the sled, snowmobile trails are free to download. Now if we’d ever get snow!

POR sells Chrysler blue high temp and exhaust manifold paint. I brushed them on my slant 6 manifolds and couldn't be happier with the durability.

Got the rear end housing straightened at a dirt track shop in Watertown. I’ve always used a bolt for the missing flange stud but found Polaris side by sides use something close, $2 vs $40+ for the set.

Not sure about the newer engines, but that's how I'm running my 06 5.7. I have a block off plate with o-rings bolted on the bottom and I run a remote filter kit (generic Summit setup) through the ports just above it. Factory had an oil temp sensor in one port, a plug in the other.

I checked the trannys. They are all ODs

The wind probably keeping them from flying again also.