Search results for query: Clutch fork travel

So from what I know the slave that was on it before I matched and bought this new one it may be the wrong one but it sure does look right bolted up there and that may not mean anything. when we put the slave and master on and we were bleeding it yes the pedal would go all of the way to the...

Valve springs in, plug wires made. Back to the clutch! This afternoon I had a helper slowly depress the pedal while I watched the fork. It starts to move immediately with the pedal, but only travels 3/4" (at the hole/rod) with the pedal on the floor. I bled the system again, but no air bubbles...

First part is correct. Second is not. Moving the push rod closer to the pedal decreases the ratio (nominally 6:1) which moves more fluid from the master for a given movement of the pedal! It also increases the effort required due to the same reduction in leverage. As YR mentioned, I had a...

I don't think that's right. A larger bore master will take MORE pedal effort, because it has more square inches of piston. The pounds per square inch also increases, as the clutch springs deflect more. So, (pounds/sq in) * (sq in) = (pounds at pedal). PSI larger, piston larger = pounds at pedal...

Then that is your issue. It has too much free travel. Free travel is the amount of travel the clutch pedal has before you can feel it engaging the clutch fork. It is very easy to feel. Simply depress the pedal with your hand until you feel hard resistance. My guess is you have 3-4 inches. Should...

I always struggle with the ratios, but I know a small move can make a noticeable pedal effort change. On my last race car, I decided to make everything hair triggered. The throttle would go from idle to WFO in about 3/4 inch of pedal travel and the clutch was about the same. Could barely drive...

Thanks. I can do that, if I can bend a tool sufficiently to reach in through the fork hole. REALLY don't want to remove (Lakewood, BB A-body, headers). That certainly would work too, but jacking the rear end up means I'm not taking off down the road in a car that hasn't completed its shakedown...

I think you're calculating your pedal ratio from the original geometry, which has no meaning at all for a hydraulic clutch. No Z-bar, no clutch rod, and in most cases no clutch fork or pivot. The only thing that matters for the hydraulic clutch with regard to the pedal is the amount of travel...

Well, I'll be driving my Dart mostly on the street, so I definitely don't want a clutch (or a throttle) that's either all the way in or all the way out! I think that I may have simply bought too small a master for my pull cylinder to achieve that magic 1" travel at the fork, since the pedal is...

Sure, but that requires removing the pedal and re-welding the spacer (that lines up with the original hole). The spacer is about 1.5" tall, thick-wall tubing which gives the proper offset from the pedal to the clutch master. I figured drilling one hole in the fork would be simpler... Wrong...

If you removed the overcenter spring, then this is normal. On mine, I just installed a slightly stiffer anti-rattle spring underneath, to pull the TO fork forward towards the bell; anchor-holes are factory provided. But this is not normal if the overcenter spring is still on there;you know, the...

Hi everyone, I know I haven't posted in a while; but I'm definitely in need of some help. So here goes. Bought a 74 Duster 360 4 speed car. Had a diaphragm cheapo clutch in it. What I've read says to remove the over-center spring and all should be well. Previous owner didn't do that, instead...

Finally got a chance to look at my setup. Good news - the disc is definitely not stuck to the flywheel :) With the clutch pedal depressed and the car in 4th, brakes set, it cranks just as rapidly as if in neutral. Trial with the clutch engaged - big bump against the brakes, as expected. So...

Since I have only 3/4" fork travel currently, and the clutch is just barely dragging enough so that I can't get the trans into gear with the engine running, I estimate I need 7/8 to 1" of travel. The available stroke is limited to 3/4" unless I make other mods as we discussed above, which I'm...

There is only one actual adjustment........the push rod down at the bell to the fork. But there's "more" to this.........the type of clutch, or damage and wear to the clutch pp and disc. There's wear in the bushings and parts, there's bending damage to the parts, and there's...

here's the deal, When you launch at 2500 and the tires hook, the engine is gonna torque over CCW from the front,to the passenger side, and pull that Z-bar into a new relationship. The TO bearing better stay off the clutch during this. And when you shift, the engine is gonna flop back down just...

Unreal. Yup. A smaller bore makes it easier to push with longer travel. That's why when I convert from power to manual brakes you use a smaller diameter piston. Damn the crack pipe. BTW. If you move the hole in on the fork, it can't be the same sized hole as what's there. It will have to be...

Glad you feel better after shooting, because this pre-shooting post made no sense: "My point was if the disc is stuck to either the FW or the pressure plate, if the crank is turning but the input is not, the disc would have to be welded to one of them. " The reason I can't get it into gear is...

The reason I asked, we had a Sebring for a few years and the slave or operating cylinder traveled too far and stuck the clutch fork in the released position. In our case the car was stuck out of gear and had to be towed, so check this first! In our case, we had to change the master and operating...

The side with the wire clip locates the outboard side. The inner can fall wherever so long as the bushings are in the tube a ways. As the engine torques over under every shift, the inner ball will tend to come out of the tube. I think my bar had a roll-pin in there to limit the inwards travel...

Hi guys, just a quick update. I ended up taking a couple of millimetres off the top of the clutch fork bracket and it now fits great with enough travel. Thanks for all your suggestions and input.

The proper procedure is to assemble it all on the bellhousing and then install it. Followed by the transmission. Removing material from the clutch fork will in all likelihood not give the proper amount of travel to completely disengage the clutch.

Yup, had my head firmly shoved up my rear. Owning that, I'm not sure of the finger ratio of a diaphram pp. Somewhere I have written down the ratio for a long finger. I would call Brewers and ask them. They should have the numbers. I would also think Center Force could tell you. You can...

Everything is factory and original to the car BUT the transmission. Originally it was a 3 speed. So, the same factory bell housing and linkages. I did replace the rod the goes from the z-bar to the clutch fork. Original clutch fork for the 3 speed too. New throw out bearing and McCleod clutch...

hi, if you keep pushing pedal down and it won't let trans, go into gear, you have pushed fingers into the disc. how thick is your disc?? a friend of mine had same problem with his 64 dart, discovered, the disc was way too thick. the fingers are already too far down. limits travel and release...

...believed to be, as i mentioned the clutch linkages are colombian fixed/modified, it turned out that this many "fixes" caused the clutch fork travel to be so exsesively long that the 3 pressure plate finges moved enough to contact the clutch disc springs grabbing the clutch instead of...

I ran a 4 speed in my big block dart way back.swapped in factory linkage. Still have it all. On the torque shaft what i had to do was take some of the bends out of that arm. Not much. That moved the arm down and away from the starter and scattershield. Also added a little more travel to the...

Yeah, in my case I think I'm losing quite a bit of clutch fork travel with all that free play. I do not feel any tightness until I'm nearly hitting the floor, and at this point there is no gap between the throw out bearing and pressure plate. I don't plan on leaving it that way. Anyway... I...

Can't tell you for sure on that model but it seems odd. Is there about an inch of free travel in the pedal from the top down to where you start to feel pressure from the clutch? That would be my concern: if there is no free play at the top of the travel, then the throw out bearing is riding the...

I finally got around to making the hydraulic line for my setup (pull cylinder, stock fork, Centerforce DF clutch and throwout). I'm surprised at how low the pedal effort is, and I'm worried I need to decrease the pedal ratio (or move the fork hole closer to the pivot than the stock hole, or get...