Search results for query: Clutch fork travel

It only takes an inch or so of travel to disengage the clutch. There is something else going on here. Either you need a longer adjustment rod or a longer rod from the clutch pedal to the z-bar. Once that is fixed, you can see if the used pressure plate is good. I presume you have the right...

.010 is not enough....Try .060 to .080 or so. But the simple way is; You will want to adjust the freeplay to about 1 inch.Freeplay is the amount of initial pedal travel before you feel resistance. This insures that the TO bearing does not spin full-time, which would burn it up pretty quick...

I need some advise here. I put this clutch in . McLeod street pro I think. I am not used to the travel. I have not had a 4 speed in a Dart in 40 years. What is the typical travel on one of these. Does this pedal go to the floor. This one doesn't. In my semi, it releases close to the top. I have...

The first thing I learned was that I have a 72 bell housing which requires a 1 year special ball stud. that one drove me crazy. My Z Bar has had one mod. I cut one arm and welded it back in the same spot only rotated it 3/32 forward for clearance. My clutch has always worked fine with this...

Hey Bill, That freeplay adjustment is going to change the first day you drive it anyway due to the disk and flywheel settling in to each other. So that means that the freeplay will get less quick at first. If it were mine I would probably fix that "not going to the floor" thing by changing the...

I have been working through similar issues in my 65 cuda, just not enough pedal. I even made a custom pedal that is straight not curved so I could get more travel, that did help. What did not help but made it worse was going to a larger 1'' mc. It was so hard to push it would tweek the dash. A...

Yes, that what he means. If more travel is added to the clutch fork and you still have this problem, then the throw-out bearing is dragging on the input shaft. That means you'll have to pull the trans and take a look at it.

Excuse me, I think you mean the pilot bearing or bushing. Throwout bearings don't even touch the input shaft at all (ever) They ride on a sleeve surrounding the input shaft and press against the clutch release fingers/spring levers whatever. Only a dragging clutch disc or pilot bearing can...

Vintage Mopar Gold Mine Financial and medical circumstances force me to sell a treasure trove of hardcore MOPAR racing parts, with great history and provenance. This is an unparalleled opportunity for a sincere vintage racer, collector, or enthusiast to acquire a well developed small-block...

Working on mine slowly also... pull-type slave cylinder with similar bracket made from 1/8" steel plate underneath; Wilwood 3/4" master with reinforcing plate also of 1/8" steel. Pedal has a 2-1/4" piece of 1/8" thick wall pipe welded to it with the center of the hole exactly 2" from the pivot...

...bores of your master cylinder and slave cylinder (and maybe grab a picture of where your slave attaches to the clutch fork), I would be very grateful. There's not a lot of info regarding how far the clutch fork travels before the clutch fully disengages. Thank you all for your responses. -Mike

I have a four speed, stock bellhousing/fork/throwout bearing, centerforce dual-friction clutch, and the travel at the end (where the large diameter hole is that the stock z-bar connects to) measures almost exactly 1"

hi, an easier method is to shorten the upper arm on cross shaft and lengthen lower arm. I shortened mine about 3/4 in on upper and lengthened lower 3/4 in. I had to use a pedal stop under clutch pedal to keep from over centering. this made the clutch a toe tapper. very little travel is...

Yes i did. With the 3/4" master, i had about 1/2" of fork travel (measured halfway down the fork arm, which is where i connected the slave to). I figured a shorter arm would increase the throw on the clutch side. We will see.

if you go page 1 of this topic my pics are there and so are soem oen elses,,,, i have not had any one to help me measure the fork travel,,,,,i want to measure it when it cold and warm,,,,i think i need a bigger bore master,,,,

it seems that youv got the bugs worked out. yes the firewall definitely needs to be reinforced with a steel plate so it wonf flex and tear. what is the stroke on your slave cyl? i was looking at a wilwood unit from summit and im wondering if it will have enough travel if i hook it through the...

1965 Abody 904 to A833 OD swap info Flywheel 1963-67 flywheel must be used with a 1963-67 crank. 64-67 273 size 9.5 in. Part number 2463256 122 tooth ring Clutch A10” clutch can be used with special bolts. The 10 1/4" slant 6 van clutch assembly will fit the early 273...

Thanks for the tip! I can't do it that way right now, but you better believe that's what I'll do when I pull the tranny to fix the rear main seal leak. I'm also going to measure my pushrod travel and make sure there is no tension on the master when in the full 'up' position. Everything was...

my slave is connected to the fork in the same place as the factory linkage was,,, i see a guy once in a while with a set up in a street rod,, he drilled a hole in the fork 1 inch away from the orignal linkage hole for his slave,, you may need to make a pedal stop when you switch to the...

good luck let us know how u make out sounds like you only gained about 1/4 inch of slave travel ??

Yeah, it was. Either the sticker was on the wrong side or my mechanic buddy and I both screwed up. Either way, water under the bridge. I just hope I didn't score the flywheel. The new master cylinder increase my throw by 50%. I went from 1/2" travel to 3/4" of travel at the slave, translating...

well glad u got her back together,,,get back to me when u get her on the grouind,,, what is the total travel now of say the fork and where are you measureing it at the outer most end of the fork ??? does the pedal feel any stiffer with the bigger bore master ??? forget if you have 4 speed...

Sounds to me like he didn't get the fork or some other part of the linkage installed correctly You should be able to inspect it by removing the bottom bell cover and / or the rubber fork boot Inspect/ shake the linkage, and carefully look over the "Z" shaft --the tube which goes...

Thanks so much!!! I will try to check this out this weekend!!!

Well I have 2 different Z Bar Photos. One is a remake that came with my Trans and does not look quite the same as the supposed original. The arm is longer that goes to the shift fork on the one that is suppose to be stock. and the clocking is also different. Anyone know which is which? I have a...

I have a 74 Duster that I just restored and converted from a 904 to 833 4 speed. Everything is working ok, but I have a couple of issues with the clutch that I need some help with. I bought a pedal set that was from a A body but I do not recall the year. I think it was a 70-72. Any way, the...

Did it ever work with the mechanical linkage? I can only see 3 possibilities……. 1. It is working but you are trying to over travel the clutch fork. 2. You have it set up wrong and you are pushing the TO bearing towards the trans not the clutch. 3. Something is wrong inside the...

Hi Jim, first off i have to come clean that all the Mopars i've owned were automatics and all my 3/4 spd. experience was with GM products..........i know:violent1:. Mike has a good idea to try and that sounds right to me since that style plate requires less pedal pressure. However if you still...

I had a issue like this with my friends 65 coronet 2dr sedan. He has a centerforce clutch, and to get it to fully release it needed 1" of travel at the clutch fork, where the pushrods goes in it. Hope this helps. Antoon

I did a hyd clutch set up in mine. It is a 340 as well. Once I got it adjusted right it was tight as could be. I dont know how the linage set up is since i never did it but if you could make it so it moves a little more then maybe that will fix it. I once had a ca**ro with the same type of...