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Removed fender. Now its way easier to work on. Going to make my patch pattern next.

I have always put the convex towards the rubber, I want to contain the rubber, not push it apart. The nut to me is a self locker, they never seem to move unless I move it.

You can take a flat chisel, grind the nose so that its round, and GENTLY work the metal of the block to tighten the registers. You really should have it line honed afterwards

Sorry Tim.

So sorry buddy, you gave Blue a good home and a happy one

So I don’t want to make the wrong entry.. I recently acquired this project has A lot of rust. But it’s complete minus the glass. 100% correct drivetrain. I’ll get it running as soon as it warms up. Unknown what the future will be for this.. stay tuned.

I don't know.....the rubber would flex. I would just want something to HOLD. lol

Yea he has a few sweet car 68 charger,70ish challenger 68 dart dose the Mopar at carlise Thought he might be in the same loop

So sorry to hear this. I know how tough it is, they are family.........................

Hello Asa, great to see you jump in after all this time, old man on the hill here driving Victoria again after 7 years of updates. Yes ! I will help a brother out and subscribe :thumbsup:

Not yet just wondering what I'm looking for

Snake or not, that’s gotta be one of the dirtiest toilets I’d ever seen. That’s worse than worst gas station toilets I’ve seen.

It's not uncommon for machine shops to take a flat punch and tap down where the caps and registers meet to tighten up the cap fitment when a block is align honed. Sounds like it might help yours out if you planned that operation for your block....

I totally get what you mean. My car will not be identical to yours, and we are talking about an application where when you find 1/8” clearance you got a win. I have a set of those discontinued Hooker 5481 drag headers brand new in box I want to use Why? I like punishment and period pro stock...

I say way to go for driving it 100,000 miles! Most people barely use there cars!

Damn, and I thought I was old. :poke: :poke: :poke: :lol::lol:

Thanks for the pics. I gwt what your saying.

Here’s the one I’m putting on my Barracuda. It looks identical to the one on the car. I suspect the car has a Valiant front clip on it, because the front fenders are 100% from a 65 Valiant. If you find one from a Barracuda, worst case is you’ll have to fab 2 little brackets to brace the turn...

Agree.... Liquid nails or something of the 3M automotive adhesives line. Vibration resistant, able to flex

Yes

this it? Summit Racing SUM-6920 Summit Racing™ Muscle Car Replacement Cams | Summit Racing

I'm curious as to what all "go fast" goodies you have stashed away. Welcome from a Demon owner in Texas.

I beg to differ. I will be 77 in March.

It cannot go anywhere. But If I modded the mount like you're talking about, I'd still want the piece with the stud attached to the rubber. I wonder if something like Liquid Nails would work clamped in a vise until it cured completely?

Agree, the engineers obviously figured out that one was sufficient. But to follow up ... If the mount is compressed between the transmission and the cross member. Where would it go? Interested in your thoughts.

The Barracuda (the fastback and now the convertible), I have over 6000 (road trip) miles on the fastback and over 4000 on the convertible. For me it is the journey not the destination. Alan

The problem there is, the metal is vulcanized to the rubber. While you could probably get it off the original, I don't see how in the world you'd ever get it to stay on the new one. Plus, you'd probably tear up the rubber in the new one getting that plate off. I'd just use the single stud mount...

Asa, glad to see you back old friend!

If you have the original double, can you just remove the 2nd stud plate and swap it onto the new rubber?

The one on Vixen has two studs. I have another on the shelf. The rubber isn't bad, but it does have some surface cracks, of course. I don't know when they went to just one stud. The one stud mount will work just fine, though.