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Totally get where you are coming from, since I recently did the upper rail weather stripping on my Dart. My stuff was OEM, no glue, just 1 screw per side & press fit. Hard to tell if the Drivers side was 1 continuous strip from the factory, since it came off like Styrofoam....in pieces...

Yeah.....Where? :) Imho, the entire MC is to close to the header pipe, wrapped or not. Id try a metal thermal shield of some kind, or see if they make opposite line mount Master Cylinder. https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/opinion-needed.576282/

Not mine. My emblems are OEM. Red White & Blue.. Paint is even oxidized, so it was never repainted that I know of, unless the original Owner repainted them, cuz my picture library is from the last 3 owners. Im the 4th. Maybe different Factories painted them as their choice. Mark Worman of...

Yes. Red, White & Blue

Ive done the full meal deal on my Dart. Front & rear Hellwig swaybars, Bilstein front shocks, Calvert 9 way adjustable rear, PST strut rods with 1.03 Torsion bars & 6 leaf rear springs. WOW!! What a difference...

Ill just throw this out there for the fun of it, but Im eventually going to have to upgrade my driveshaft for my Ball & trunnion setup, AFTER I fix my pinion seal leak. I checked pricing locally & online, & I think Im gonna go with Denny's Driveline out of New York just cus they offer a full...

Looks like I may have a leaking rear pinion seal, but after looking at some videos & reading the R&R instruction on this page, it looks to me I just remove the 4 U joint cap nuts, then the u joint caps, then the infamous nut.. Mark location, count number of times it rotates before complete...

Make sure Blue lock tite is used on pinion bolt & the 4 bolts that hold the drive shaft in place.

Here ya go 1964 Dodge Dart LED Lights | Super Bright LEDs

ACK!!!! You are absolutely RIGHT!! :rolleyes: Those pictures are from my stock photos where I was researching my sway bar options. My apologies. GOOD EYE!!:thankyou: However, I DO have Hellwig front & rear sway bars installed on my 64 Dart GT & they were a direct bolt on. Ill try to get some...

Thats a stock picture I pulled form the Hellwig site for a 64 Dart.. The install pictures are from my 64 Dart.

I have a 64 Dart GT & have installed Hellwig front & rear sway bars, Bilstein front & Calvert 9 way adjustable rear shocks. Car still cant get out of its own way but she doesnt wallow thru corners anymore. :thumbsup: Love em!!

Yep, for my 64 Dart

Hellwig

Straight bolt on

Had a major listening change in the ole Casa recently. My ole tried & true Nakamichi PA-7Mkll decided to take a hiatus, when the soft on power circuit failed. So in the interim, my audio Sensei turned me on to these lil Chinese Class D mono brick amplifiers @ a reasonable price & solid power &...

Yeah, I saw this video. Only one out there regarding Slant Six with a Sniper that I know of, & its for a constant speed Generator, not a daily, in traffic, driver. Wish there would be a actual Dart on the road with this setup...

I recently began replacing mine as well Factory install. Only glue used was on the leading edge above wind wing. Weatherstripping was cut into 3 pieces from the factory. I just finished up the drivers side, rolled up the windows & Im going to leave it sit for a few days to get used to the new...

So this thread just dies?? Where did Johnny go, What about an adapter?? I would think every Slanter on this board would love to adapt to bolt on EFI if they could... Any follow up to this?

Double check those heater hoses. If they arent both Hot, hot, hot, then you have a plugged Heater core. Thats what happened to my 72 Dumpster :thumbsup: Unhook both hoses & put a garden hose up to the input hose, crank up the water pressure & see what happens. Once I evacuated all the ****...

I most likely will have to use some more grease to get the tail end, cut to length, in underneath the metal shroud to the right of the screw. This shroud also is used to hold the headliner in place via lil hook spikes.

Here is where I am at. Got the new rubber all the way to the last picture. In pic 4 I used a lil grease to slip the leading edge of the new stock up underneath the rear driver side panel, then used a rubber mallet to push it down into the metal seam.

Most excellent. Its as you say. As I removed all the metal, was able to just pull out the old stripping, & ready for the install Thanks again...

Yep, 1964 Dart..... so, no clips... Thanks

Hello all, Hope October is starting off good for everybody. I recently purchased some inside door weather stripping, the stuff with the color matching felt. Is the weatherstripping a pin version where is attaches to rubber & then popped into the appropriate hole in the body? It appears so...

Yep, Drivelines North West in Seattle. I hear there is a place in New York that you can ship your driveline to them, they build it & ship it back.

I removed mine lickety split to install color matching LED. Use small allen wrench to remove the WW knob, Headlight switch comes out after small release button is pushed underneath the PB cluster, unscrew 2 lock rings, then the 2 bezel screws...... remove felt behind bezel, then each button...

Excellent job, but Im still going for a more modern fix

Im running Bilsteins up front, with Calvert 9 way adjustable shock in the rear. 340 6 leaf springs...... Works fantastic with front & rear sway bars..