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Recalls a science fiction story of a future where a suitor is poor because his family has "so much stuff". Turns out they only way economists figured to keep everyone employed and factories running was to churn out products which were dumped gratis on people. Rich people could avoid that and...

I second the suggestion to insure the leak is from the weep hole. My 1969 slant was leaking from the short top hose of the water pump which runs from the bottom of the head. It is very hard to work a regular rubber hose in there, so use 5/8" silicone hose which is more flexible and lasts much...

So, was the box from Rockauto branded "KYB"? If so, they shipped the part you ordered. Duralast is just a brand, not a manufacturer like KYB, other than their rebuilt parts, so Duralast parts might be sourced from various manufacturers. Just like Sears old Kenmore brand, which could be an...

Made by Ningbo of China. Originally sold mostly by Skip White Performance of TN on ebay. Amazing they can make them for the $45 I paid, plus $20 for an e-core coil. I bought a spare ignition module, since prudent to carry one. Main issue I've read is of an early shaft bushing failure...

Not terribly hard if you have long (or several) 3/8" socket extensions and perhaps a U-joint (forget). Definitely follow the re-assembly instructions (find on slantsix.org website). The triangle and cone washers must face the correct way to avoid the exhaust manifold later cracking (opposite...

Might have been in the rebuild kit. Otherwise, from my "bag of O-rings". Sometimes you get extra O-rings with new parts, which are for other apps, so they go in the bag, especially things like auto transmission kits. I have several O-ring kits from Harbor Freight - Nitrile (black) both SAE...

Makes sense. I assumed an A-body. That loud noise you hear from knobby tires is energy being wasted. Shift to "N" and see how fast it slows from 65 mph. If it keeps decelerating the same after 40 mph, the drag is more from the tires than aero.

8.5 mpg is horrid, but insure you are measuring it accurately. Use gas station fuel pump readings (fill-up to fill-up) and mileage markers (or GPS), not the tics on the dash fuel gage and odometer. I carefully recorded mileage in my 1969 Dart w/ slant-six in the 1980-90's and consistently got...

I'm sure many here would be interested in photos of you Billet distributor and its pickup, even if we can't answer your question about the details of rising or falling edge (Kit's O-scope photos show "triggers on rising edge"). Another issue is that as spark timing changes, one needs the rotor...

Thanks for the correction. I didn't think about that (mentioned by Kit), which can be an even bigger problem since the spark could jump to the wrong cylinder post. What I've done to verify rotor phasing is spin the distributor by hand (out of engine) and flash a timing lamp at the innards (cap...

Don't apologize. Good to add to an existing thread about a general issue which interests everyone. Renewing it keeps it alive. After a time, the photos become archive-only. Re your question, with reversed polarity, most ignition modules will still trigger and you can adjust the distributor...

Might be the same/similar camshaft I put in my 1965 273. It was termed "RV/Torquer", but had slightly higher lift than even the HiPo camshaft for that year, as I recall. I vaguely recall .422"/.444" lift at the valves. But I changed to hydraulic lifters. The adjustable 273 rockers allow...

Probably similar to what was used OE, though whatever remnants of that remain today have become too friable to tell. I recall using several sealants - pipe dope w/ teflon, Permatex gasket sealant (gooey ethanol based purple gunk), and teflon tape (usually thicker yellow for-gas type). All have...

I have read of racers leaving a newly cast block outside for several years to "season it", which means let the metal relax to reach final dimensions before machining. I'd say that was similar to how glass flows over time, since that supposedly explained why window glass in old buildings was...

A few small points. As mentioned, the fill port ("inlet" in post 25 figure) must be exposed when the pedal is released. To insure this, insure that the brake lamp switch is only sensing motion of the pedal and not limiting it, i.e. the pedal should not bottom-out on the switch. That is a...

Corrosion of bare steel is usually due to condensation. I would get that in my garage in Atlanta. No problem in my garage in drier California now, but I still get condensation outside under a carport in winter, even dripping from metal rafters. It is due to the temperature changes, which are...

Are aftermarket parts any better for newer cars? I know parts some like motor mounts made in India (Anchor, DEA, ...) are just as bad for my newer vehicles as for my classics. You can always go to the dealer for branded parts, but the prices may amaze you, especially on a newer model. You...

Great. We love Aussie cars, especially old Mopars. I used to see Aussie-made Holdens (GM subsidiary) in Indonesia, as an upper-scale choice before Japanese luxuries came. I thought that might be Mel Gibson's car as an Aussie reporter in Jakarta in the 1982 film "The Year of Living...

When convenient, weld an O2 bung in the exhaust. A wideband can be after the collector, even a temp insert up the tailpipe. A regular O2 sensor needs to be close, where still hot, so one in each bank. Wideband kits are now affordable. Otherwise, you are "flying blind". Old guys rely on...

Had to google it. Apparently 2 ways to "O-ring the head". Generally means a groove cut in the head for a stainless-steel wire, which aligns with the softer "fire ring" of the head gasket to crush into it. The wire sits proud of the head surface ~10 mil. Stronger sealing is a "fire ring"...

Not a zener. I forgot if silicon or germanium. The diode is forward-biased, in both directions (2 in parallel). It always conducts forward, just very little current until >0.5 V drop, then current increases exponentially with voltage drop. I tested that keeps the dash ammeter from pegging...

I measured that long ago in my Mopars. The voltage drop across the ammeter at full-scale is ~0.7 V. Since you are seeing much more drop, some component may be getting hot. The ammeter bolted connections are a common problem and can melt from corrosion, as can the connectors in the bulkhead...

The Magnum V-8 engines ran a thick wire (~8 awg) from the alternator output to BAT+, across the timing cover, so you could do that. I took that cable from a junkyard one (Grand Cherokee or Dodge truck) for my 1965. Mine doesn't run directly to BAT+, but near it. It runs to a back-back power...

The connector in your hand is termed "twin-lock terminals", I think also use on Ford. I think it was used from 1964 until they needed more wires in the steering column, which was when the key switch moved there (1973?) to realize the steering-lock. I've taken some from 1980's Dodge motorhomes...

Wow, 50 deg BTDC at idle can be optimal! I have sort of seen that several times. The Holley 1920 on my 1969 slant-six was quirky, always idling rough and wanting to die. It was happier with >20 deg advance at idle. If I tried to set to the book ~5 deg, then gave a little throttle the engine...

Just to clarify, OP mentioned "control arms" above. Only the upper control arm varied. The lower control arm was the same for disk or drum, and I recall for all years 1963-76. Except some lower control arms have a bracket to attach a sway-bar link (optional) and I recall that bracket varied...

Definitely take an old one apart to clean and change seals. Unless the brake fluid was kept pristine, it likely has internal corrosion which keeps the pistons from sliding to function. Even on a simple drum-drum car where it is just a distribution block w/ imbalance switch, the piston for the...

My 1985 M-B is worse. Owner's who've done it said a 3-day job to change the heater core. Rather than solid copper, it has crimped-on plastic sides which leak at the gasket. A new one costs >$500. Seems they built the whole car around the heater core. In my Chrysler minivan, the heater core...

I've used Duracool for 3 decades. It is an HC refrigerant, before Envirosafe. Switched to it in my 1996 and 2002 when replacing their compressors. People who claim "explosive" know nothing about combustion. All refrigerant leaks burn since the oil spray is flammable, and new ones produce...

When the "aluminum core with crimped on plastic reservoirs" began in early 1980's, I thought "this will be a cluster-f", particularly since they rely on a rubber gasket to seal the plastic. I did see some early ones taken apart at radiator shop when getting my brass Mopar radiator repaired, so...