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Absolutely beautiful shots of a beautiful truck

So, finally got a few hours to get at the dart yesterday. Pulled the driveshaft to replace the damaged trunnion boot. Turns out is wasn't chewed but torn. Guess buying NOS wasn't the best idea in this case. Gues it was a little brittle, though it didn't feel like it when installing. The new...

So, last night I went out to wet sand and polish the new paint to see if I could "blend" my paint repairs to look a little cleaner. I must say, I am very impressed with the results. Other than a very slight darker spot on the wheel well just in front of the rear tire I can no longer tell where...

All the research I did shows the 273 (I actually already had a core to build) will not fit in a 63 as the wiper motor mount point on the firewall interferes with the distributor. I read somewhere where a guy did a full custom distributor but it was a pretty complex milling operation I don't...

Yes, we are considering another classic. Actually, already have a few...lol. We have a 1948 international KB2 we are building for my wife. She wants to drive it daily so we are putting in a 5.3 LS with a 4L60E trans with a Ford Explorer 8.8 rear with posi and disc brakes. Also installing a...

So, my wife and I after some discussion have decided that we are going to have to let the Dart go. The original reason for building it was so we could drive it daily in the summer and go to shows all over. After driving the Dart last year and only a little this year we found that the dart is...

Your work looks great. It's funny, you are building the same car I have and you are finding the same inspiration I did. I kept the chrome and didn't do the matte finish, but did also go with a green. I wanted green to begin with and this is how I found that car. I just wish I went the full...

As always, your work is amazing

I bought new. I think a mild cleaner on a rag would be best to clean it. Nothing too harsh as it would possibly damage the coating. I would test it on a less conspicuous area first to confirm it doesn't damage anything. It also wouldn't hurt to start a thread asking this question as I'm sure...

I cleaned the top completely and even filed off the sharp burrs that were still present from the original spot welds. Underneath I hand sanded as well as I could and epoxy primed, sealed and painted it. Originally it wouldn't have gotten fully sprayed as it was difficult to access (mine had...

That and just driving them around.

Good weekend. Took the car out for it's last run of the year before being put away for the winter. Took it to a show about an hour south of me. Weather was questionable all week so I wasn't sure if it was going to be worth the drive, but figured when I got up at least it would make for a nice...

It was a long process. Ever evolving. Been driving it all summer and working out the bugs and deciding on the next upgrades. Definitely power steering, power brakes and more than likely a drivetrain upgrade. That will probably be next winter. I'll drive it one more year with the six before...

Any updates on this? Ever get the motor mounts? Curious as to the clearance.

Amazing, as always

Mine runs really cool now that I got all the crap out of the engine. I am pretty confident the root cause was the radiator got plugged up after a deposit in the engine let go and went through the system. Now it doesn't even get up to the lower operating range line even on our hotter summer days.

My 63 has none to the radiator support but has one from upper bellhousing bolt to the hole below the heater hose. But as stated by many others, more grounds better than not enough.

So, final update. It appears the overheating problem is solved. It was definitely the rad. Once it was flushed it ran extremely cool. Now it doesn't really get to operating range without the thermostat. I am still getting some debris coming through so I have flushed it out a few more times...

Looking good. I will be following. I have a 63 as well and was considering a V8 swap but was holding off due to firewall concerns. If this works out I may have to consider a winter upgrade. :)

Ok, another update, another issue... Hopefully a solution. Flushed the rad again. Flushed the engine over and over again. Took it for a good drive. No issues. Took it for the same drive I took it for that it overheated bad and no issues. Looks like I'm getting past the cooling issue...

Another setback. Took the car for a longer drive Sunday after work and it overheated again. Had to turn on the heat to get it cooled down to get home. Left it overnight and discovered a pile of crap in the radiator...AGAIN!!! Drained it all again and this time it was loose enough to flush...

I'm pretty sure that connects to a rod that goes to a thermostatic choke control. Basically a brass coil spring under a cover that pull the choke closed cold and as it heats up it opens and relieves tension on the spring. You can see the silver cover and rod in this picture.

Update: Picked up the radiator from the shop today. Couldn't believe it was actually CHEAPER than the quote...by almost half. Gotta love when that happens. Anyway, put it back in with new cap and thermostat and fresh coolant and took it out for a drive. HUGE difference. Had it out for 40...

Picked up my rad today. Cost a lot less than they quoted... Bonus. That rarely happens. Installed it with a new thermostat and rad cap and filled it up with new coolant. Took it for a 40 minute drive and it didn't even come up to operating range on the gauge. Looks like success. That's...

Routing over to avoid heat areas. To go around the front defeats the initial purpose as it again would be close to the upper rad hose and interfere with the alternator unless I kept it high and that wouldn't look very good. Around the rear would also look odd and it would need to be really...

I just bought new steel line today to do the reroute. I will just have to loosen and pivot up out of the way when prepping for a valve adjustment. Already have the heat wrap for the factory routed steel line. Didn't help as much as I hoped it would. Hoping that the newly cleaned rad (just...

Yes, originally they were all steel, that I was aware of. What I was referring to was doing the fuel line reroute modification to help with heat soak. Wondering if rubber would actually keep the fuel cooler than metal. Also for keeping enough flexibility to be able to remove the valve cover...

So, a little update. Cut the center out of the thermostat as suggested to see if there would be any difference...there wasn't. Adjusted the timing back to 2.5BTDC as per spec and reset car to get it to run right. No change. Finally got a temperature gun and checked the rad and found the...

I think you misunderstood what I was saying, or I miswrote. Either way. It is holding good pressure. It only pukes out past the cap once it almost reaches hot on the gauge inside the car. RPM was set close to 600RPM (nice slow idle). That is how the timing was set, with vacuum disconnected...

Heater core is brand new. Installed after full flush was done. Timing mark on balancer was confirmed. Plan to pull the rad tomorrow if weather holds out and time allows