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You can also test the motor diaphragm with a handheld vacuum pump and see if it operates and holds vacuum.

i shoulda went with those style hose clamps.. they look so proper :)

Only needed for stopping quick in so California traffic....

I would suggest putting everything on the fire wall like the brake lines and wiper motor and the master cylinder. Its easier now, you wont have to reach over the 340...Good luck with your build....Rich

Then this will make that hunger worse

Yep chance of a lifetime! Congrats those are some nice pieces! Kneck Snapper lol

Go with a TKX 5 spd.

Sounds like you're dropping it in from the top, so- Put the headers in the engine compartment before lowering the engine in. Mount the starter before bolting the headers up to the engine. And maybe leave the distributor out (or at least the cap) until the engine is in.

The good news is they found something. Hopefully they got it all fixed up. Prayers for you my friend.

How so on the rod to stroke ratio. You take up the difference of say 0.5" in the piston compression height. Stroke and rods stay the same.

I guess you gotta really love those heads to pay that much money for those numbers.

Here is one drawer of them at home. The others are at work.

I had a 1971 SB rad done in North Bay with a 3rd row added and IIRC, it was under $400 CDN.

Bleeders at the top ? All Pads in solid contact with rotors ? Very unusual. Are you closing the bleeder before the pedal is released ?

PM sent

No worries on the lights getting hot enough to damage the plastic grill. I would check the wire gauge to the relay power (30) and the out to the lights (87). Should be 12ga and then the bulb ground should be 10ga. This will ensure good bright lights that are trouble free. The ground is part of...

11/32 int/exh .10 75/63 .20 158/105 .30 218/130 .40 241/171 .50 250/192 .55 256/198 .60 260/201 .65 264/205 5/16 int/exh .10 79/67 .20 162/109 .30 222/134 .40 245/175 .50 254/196 .55 260/202 .60 264/205 .65 268/209 5/16 with valve work int/exh .10 72/67 .20 141/104 .30 211/133 .40 248/175 .50...

Try shorter pedal strokes and slower pedal returns. Heck, even try gravity bleeding.

Either get ahold of 63gt and buys his plugs (they work very well) or just buy two knew bowls with sight glasses on them. Anything else and your just wasting your time and money.

Very cool, first I have heard of that. :thumbsup:

Geezus. RED X

Look up Bruce Toth Or Toth Performance he is Very familiar with the poly platform and he does custom porting and sales alum heads for Mopar RB & LA applications.

Power brakes? Don't need no power brakes! :rofl: :rofl:

I'm not really a bumperette guy either.....But I think I would leave them on if they were original to the car, and are in good shape.

I have a 71 Duster. The engine compartment is bare apart from the K-member, and the front suspension is all new. Is there anything that I should install, that would be easier to do, before bolting the engine to the K-member? I have TTI headers, should I put those on before putting the engine in...

Chris this is what I found to work well

H ow about this Cunningham C-3: America's Forgotten HEMI-Powered, Italian-Bodied Homologation Special

Removed from a 1970 Dodge Dart Swinger 340 with Rallye wheels. Clean and Nice condition. These are factory caps not reproduction. $200 plus postage. Accept PayPal Friends and Family. Thank you

There are 2 pieces to this set-up, the air motor out on the air intake (shown in your picture) and the temp sensor thin which is located on the air filter housing in the bottom side. It will have 2 vacuum hoses connected to it, one going to the vacuum source the other to the air motor. In my...