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Been around a long time. I'm sure there are videos on it.

I saw it, funny thing was Bill got the wrong slip and he thought he went slower

Well, first pass of the day and a new PB. No headwind so I was hoping for a better time and I got it. 10.33 @ 130!

Off 73 Plymouth duster 7-1/4 rear with 93k on it. Includes drum to drum new brakes and shock plates as shown. Chunk included open diff. Located in upstate South Carolina 29620. Prefer not to ship. See pictures. I can work with you if you can get close to meet up. Rgaz

OK. I can accept that. Just my experience and the technology has come a long way. Just my opinion is to build a torquey engine for the street first, keeping in mind the possibility of installing gears or/and converter later.

sounds good, thanks

I have this one. As you can see it is old like me. but cheap 10 bucks plus shipping

My experience of pulling wrenches for 30 years points not to the Magnum having less cylinder wear than the LA engines because of design. All manufacturers engines took a substantial leap in engine life with the introduction of EFI. The throttle body systems improved fuel atomization so wear was...

I just honed out cylinders starting at 3.910. After cleaning and hone its now at 3.917 in worst cylinder. Piston measures 3.910 where it says to measure it.

Need to know what heads are being used, and the available installed height.

is this what you are looking for?

Ok, I’ve adjusted the front to both read 38 3/4 and the both rear coil overs are set exactly the same and the measurement I ended up with was 34 1/4 on the passenger rear and 34 3/8 on the drivers rear. That’s not really enough to worry about is it? Just give the passenger rear coil over a turn...

What are you replacing the under coating with Rich?

While paint does not adhere well to chrome, mopar did the same thing and I have several dash bezels that have flaking issues, but those are 40-50 years old. More than likely the problem you had is from improper prepping the chrome before painting as in it wasn’t clean enough and therefore a...

Scrambler or AMX for me...very nice car :thumbsup:

Sounds like bad speedo cable at minimum.

I'll take $250 plus shipping none of the tabs are broke you can see most of them are broken and gone the grill is no repairs and it's original black molding

I tried WD-40 and that helped and better than heat that seemed to smear it around and soften it up to much. But I'm no expert on it.

Now that there is funny, thanks I needed the pick me up!

I've worked on many breeds, the Toyotas are slip fit cold, spin to chip 7500rpm, no drama, can't remember the Hondas. Something you might be overlooking is expansion rates of different metals, clearance change with temp. Valve settings as example, steel fluid transfer tubes into cast iron, no...

So I'm going along cruising smoothly and all sudden I hear are wearing sound like something grinding and the speedometer starts going from like 30 to 1 150 doesn't appear to be anything that serious I put it in neutral and gave it some gas and the engine sounds the same sounds like something...

There's a new one

Dual pattern cam makes up for poor exhaust port. Surely it won’t hurt. Oem heads are done by .440 lift. The comp 260 is another good grind. 212/212-.440

A mixture of dry ice and AL key haul Works. Spray blast. If you have a rotisserie you can pack it in dry ice and wait at 10, 15 minutes and hit it with a hammer.

:popcorn:

Yes

Yeah, that "in the heater box" threw me - but the resistor was "on" the heater box, and the connectors are now mated. And the radio was already out to replace the defroster grates. Thanks to all for your suggestions and help.

Yep makes it easier but still no fun.

Multitool with flex blade and Heat gun too... then wire cup for the nooks and crannies

:rofl: :rofl: Well yea make sense. LOL