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You must be surfing some Canadian sites. that is Harvey's at Jane and 401 in Toronto.

That and manual valve body... Till I 8hp it

I would have given you $100 for that bench seat...

can get the entire kit from Steering Parts and Accessories - Bergman Auto Craft even includes the proper pump. i recently bought this kit. haven't gotten it in the car yet though.. bergman is a sponser here too.. @GMachineDartGT

To muddy this further, newer cars have variable valve timing, VVT, which gives good useable power at any RPM. I drive a 30 years old gas mileage car with underpowered 4cyl. Driving away from red lights the new cars in the other lane just fly by like they are racing, and I'm in 2nd gear, but...

Nice "Gilda Radner" hair!

Yes, frontal area will be an issue. In C/GALT, if I run in a class at all and not just open/timed, I am allowed to block the entire grill if I wanted. I would love the aero of a Daytona, but I have reasons for not going that direction if possible. I was thinking, with the Coronet flush grill...

before installing timing chain, soak it in a can of engine oil, for half a day, then install, it. chain will last longer. old motorcycle trick. just food for thought.

torsion bars came today. waiting on the lower control arm bushings still but they should be here shortly. think thats it before i start the engine swap. check these fat bastards out. thanks pete ( @GMachineDartGT ) at Bergmanautocraft.com

Not 100% sure, but it looks like a Clay Smith Cams decal. Wish I still had one! Beautiful car and a great story. That garage looks full of very nice toys!

I’ve seen em hit at .470 true valve lift, and seen some ok at .512 true lift. Because of the horrible pushrod angle, you have to measure at the valve and not just go by the lift on the cam card. As with anything engine building, the correct answer is, you have to measure.

I like those also. I actually like the CF5V more, but they are only available in 19" & 20"

Add your own caption for this photo :popcorn:

Classic Thrush decal :thumbsup:

Ouch…..

:usflag:

:eek:

Hey Bill, have you tried leaving from idle and letting the engine hit the converter?

:lol:

:)

:D

I also have 2 factory 833 OD's which I would tear apart and rebuild before installing. While I am at it I would change out the mainshaft and tailhousings to make them A body tranny's. I already bought an aluminum tailshaft housing and the weight difference between it and the cast iron one is...

:usflag:

:thumbsup:

Someone I know recently picked up some black Enkei wheels...the back ones are a new version of the RPF1 wheels with a deep lip and what looks to me to be a positive offset...maybe contact them and see what they have...

Don't forget this part for your conversion. Z-Bar chassis bracket. Redirect Notice It Goes Here.

You get that pix from Pittsburg racer?

Looks good Erik,

I can relate. Happens to me all the time. lol

I found the exact problem with my engine after years of driving it. No idea who built this engine. It didn't cause any problems but I corrected it once I found it. Just check for any signs of wear damage that might cause issues.