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The old comp High Energy 268 is also another good choice here. Or even a regrind on an old 360 cam core and lifters. An Oregon 1369 ground onto 108 LSA is as good as it can get here. It’s doable because most stock 360 cores are ground close to a 109 to start with. Hydraulic Camshaft Specifications

It’s just breaking in! Well, maybe just breaking…

:rofl::rofl::rofl:

^^^ ^^^ This Right Here^^^ And sometimes in places you don’t even expect, like the pushrod holes.

I like this cam for that combinbation. 108 LSA & 104 ICL DODGE Howards Cams 710991-08 Howards Cams Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshafts | Summit Racing

If the SM stuff if it is outfitted with 10 degree retainers and locks, I’d just stick with that. Last I looked, it’s advertised as chromoly, but the real strength benefit is the 10 degree locks and retainers. The steeper lock to retainer angle gives less chance of pull through.

The SM heads are a no brainer here, and that's an especially good cam choice. This spring will get you your desired results with 120 @1.875 installed. Trick Flow Specialties TFS-16893-16 Trick Flow® by PAC Racing Dual Valve Springs | Summit Racing

Pistons are usually measured at a 90 degree axis to the pin bore or sometimes the top of the pin bore. There will be directions on UEM Pistons website.

I “think” that the thread title doesn’t sound right. For a .060 over 318?

A helpful pointer in case you don’t already know… the brake light will a have a switched hot to it from the ignition side, the brake light switch and parking brake switch make ground on it. The others will be permanently grounded on one side.

Not true at all. 9.2-6.125-2=1.075. Plenty of room for a metric ring pack in a stroker with a less expensive 6-1/8 Chevy rod and a lighter .927 piston pin. Look at some of your SBC race and even production LS “hockey puck” slipper skirt pistons that don’t even have an inch of compression height...

The four lights should be turn signal indicators, high beam, and brake light.

Here’s a replacement unit for a 2002 Neon. I’m suspecting that you’ll find similar to the same arrangement and that the arm has slipped on the tapered splines.

It's a typical four wire with ground two speed wiper motor. Here's how the electrical circuit operates.

I would check the wiper motor shaft to see if it slipped first. I think those have the tapered spline output shaft. If not that, then the cam that operates the park limit switch has broken or slipped out of time, or the internal limit switch has moved out of position.

Torque spec is 45 ft/lb.

And that brings us to our present point. There are some things about the third gens I've gotten my hands into that I liked. I see enough potential in that platform for the aftermarket to develop a set of DOHC heads and front gear drive arrangement for it.

Thick cylinder walls like in the ‘75 and earlier 360 blocks, filled in webbing like the T/A, X, and R blocks, blind bolt holes everywhere, corrected lifter angles and taller lifter bores, priority main oil system, 9.2 inch deck height with tall cylinder heads for tall intake ports, 308 / W2 head...

From digging around on here, the ‘68 column is similar to the ‘69 but is its own animal in some areas. That one pictured looks like it would require removing the steering wheel and column shift sleeve, but you may want to use an inspection mirror and look at it from behind first. It may just...

The factory service manuals that I posted the link on goes into the full parts breakdown and procedures for that.

Service Manuals – MyMopar The '68 manual isn't listed, but I would compare the '67 and '69 for any possible differences. But yes, you'll need to pull the steering wheel and a few other items.

Nice .5 to .550 number! Curious to see what the planned work will yield... Care to show some pictures of the headwork?

Learned this from a commission mechanic friend on small block Mopars, so I know it works... Permatex high stregnth Ultra-Grey in the caulk gun tube. Apply a thin layer 1/4 inch wide bead to the pan gasket and seal surfaces and smear in place and let it skim over. Put your gaskets and seals place...

That's a nice looking tool! If you're bound and intent on torquing it to spec... It looks like if you made that, you would have the ability to either modify it for a 3/4 inch square drive for a power bar or flex handle. Or, you could drill and tap it for a pair of 1/2-16 bolts and make a handle...

^^^What he says!^^^

They should be marked on the inside of the wheel.

The MP chassis manual recommends the E body pkatform as being the best for a racecar platform because of the exrea width for working clearance. But I like the '67 barracuda sedan (notchback) a lot, too!

Good to hear! Got any pictures?

Those systems actually worked a lot better than I would have believed. I had a co-worker who put one on a Toyota SR5 22RE 4X4 way back when and it made a huge difference.