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Is there a dodge truck site that’s like or affiliated with “for Abodies only”? I know there are B, E, C, FMJ sites

Headers already arrived today, they look great!

For anyone interested, Speedway has Doug’s D453 ceramic small block headers on sale, $136 off, plus a $150 Black Friday coupon! https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Doug-s-Headers-D453-Full-Length-Header-1-5-8-In-62-72-Mopar-CC,302504.html

Hopefully everything is correct. After I installed the clutch, the trans literally slid right into place with ease.

I know it’s cheating, but I decided to fill the trans before I bolted the shifter down. I went with a Steeda Tri-Ax. I heard they are one of the better shifters for these transmissions.

I’m pretty sure the shifter can be flipped around moving the shifter to the rear, if your able also flip the shifter mounting tab. Not sure if you can do that, the bolt it screw is covered by the red arrow.

I think what he meant was, the OD have a big ratio spread between 1st and second. The OD had a low 3.09 1st gear ratio, as compared to the normal 4-speed with a 2.66 1st gear ratio.

Passon Perfmance makes a A855 5-speed overdrive trans, that is an exact bolt in, but it’s expensive and there’s usually a waiting list.

Are you referring to the factory A833OD 4-speed transmission? If so, that’s an easy bolt in deal.

I got the Tremec hopefully mounted in the Duster for the last time. This is the first time I’ve put in with the clutch assembly installed. It went smooth and seems to line up perfectly. All of the clutch linkage fit nice and seems to work smooth. I’m pretty impressed with the Lakewood...

As stated above, the bellhousing is part of the front input cover and cannot be removed and another bellhousing bolted in its place. There is nothing wrong with the trans, my son has one in his supercharger 450whp 97 Cobra Mustang. Works great and has held up for the past 17 years. I am in...

Modified Magnum pilot bearing looks like it should work perfectly!

That’s the exact video I was watching before I started. It seemed way simpler than a couple others I watched.

Measuring bellhousing runout is much more complicated than I anticipated! But I think I’ve got it figured out. I made 4 marks around the opening of the bellhousing, I zeroed the dial indicator at the starting point, I stopped at all 4 spots, writing the gauge reading on the bellhousing, ending...

I took a few minutes and fitted the shifter today. I’ll probably make a steal spacer and put between the shifter handle and the shifter, to space it towards the driver a little. I may even taper the spacer a little to lean the shifter towards the driver a little.

The 5.0 Mustang’s and newer V6 Mustang’s had a 3.35 1st ratio, I believe the Camaro T5 had a 2.95 1st. Stay clear of the 4-cylinder T5, it had a 3.97 1st and a crazy 1-2 gear spread, worse than the 834OD!

I put a 2-post in my garage probably 15 years ago. I bought it used from my employer for $500. My garage only has a 10’ ceiling, so I had to have the rafters vaulted above the hoist. I still only had about $1800 in the whole venture. Couldn’t live without one!!

I realized today that I forgot to make a hole for the speedometer cable. The Tremec speedo hole ended up right in the middle of the torsion bar crossmember. So I ended up grinding some paint off and cutting a hole. After another trial fit, it looks like it should work just fine. I plan on...

Fresh coat of paint!

I got the 3/8” steel plate cut, drilled, and welded to the trans crossmember and boxed in the front side of the crossmember. Should be plenty strong. I fitted it into the car. Seems to fit well. Time to take it back out and put some paint on it!

Finally got a chance to work on the 5-speed swap this weekend. I was able too cut the bottom out of the original trans crossmember. The energy suspension T5 trans mount fit in perfectly. I bent a 3/8 piece of steal for the trans mount to sit on, and welded it to this crossmember. I am going...

I’m not sure about the tunnel itself, but the torsion bar brace that goes around the top of the tunnel would have to be removed for sure.

It’s quite a bit larger than a T5. Lengthwise they are identical. I’ve got a couple fox bodies with T5’s in them. They are a good trans.

I finally got a chance to do some work on the Duster. I decided to go with a 2” wide 1/2” think piece of steel for the torsion bar mount brace. I had the metal shop bend it to exact width and make it extra long, so I could cut it to length. It fits perfectly in the existing torsion bar mount...

I ended up putting the transmission up into place about four times as I measured and cut the floor pan. Now I just need to figure out what I’m gonna use to support the torsion bar crossmember and then go ahead and patch the floor back up.

I unwound the torsion bars completely before I started cutting on the torsion bar crossmember. My little air saw did not bind at all while cutting so I don’t believe there is any pressure on the crossmember with the torsion bars unwound.

Turned out the 4-speed hump was screwed to the floor with a bunch of screws and seam sealer. Once the screws were removed, I was able to take the hump out by hand.

Where did you get that upper torsion bar crossmember piece that you used on your car. It looks like it is pre-fabricated.

Another piece of the puzzle arrived today. Direct fit speedo cable from Silver Sport Transmission(great people to deal with).

I’ve got the bellhousing bolted to the engine. I plan on cutting the center of the torsion bar crossmember on Saturday, then mounting the transmission to the bellhousing and raising it up in the tunnel to see what kind of cuts I need to make in the floor pan. I am planning on welding a flat...