Yes, that is a stick on decal. Smaller than the original script, so not quite correct. I spray painted the exide battery case black. I got it from Weskcar on e-Bay.
Jim
Some more electrical info.
I installed the relay on the IGN1 wire to fed the sniper and voltage regulator. I then did a cranking test with 2 different batteries to see what the voltage was on the sniper 12V feed.
Test #1 was with my gutted repro battery with an Odyssey PC 925 battery inside. It...
With the upgraded alternator, I wondered if the electronic voltage regulator would be able to handle the increased field current. Decided to measure the field current on the upgraded one and the restored original.
Simply connected full battery voltage to the field (engine not running!!) which...
the deep insert ones are correct for the front so that the reflector is more vertical. Plus the part number is 2930751 front and 2930 757 for the rear. Interesting about the Fury. Just goes to show anything is possible from Chrysler back in the days!!!!
I've installed the headlight relay kit as well as well as a larger wire from alternator direct to the starter relay(Crackedback) Ammeter bypass also done.
I’m interested as well. I really like the idea of a switch to change charging voltages for different battery types (esp AGM)
Also important that is has the capacity to handle the higher output “retro“ alternators. Eg Powermaster 7018 etc
Jim
Back at the Cuda again!!!
A couple of things I has seen mentioned on the Holley Sniper forum was low voltage.
1. Low voltage on the +12V Key on feed to the sniper when cranking. Apparently anything below 11 volts causes problems on starting. I connected the IGN1 feed to the sniper feed and then...
My restoration has been going slow - so havent had it running yet!!! I've fired up the engine to break in the cam but used a carb. I'm now just installing the sniper and wiring. Will be this summer before it is on the road.
Jim
Haven't had time to get back on the Cuda for quite a while due to yard work etc and a bucket list trip to East Africa!!!
Fired the engine for the first time a couple of weeks ago. Just used a carb because I wanted to be sure it started right up to get the revs up and break in the cam.
Had some...
Correct:
"H" means the bolt was manufactured by the Highland Bolt Company
"TR" means the bolt was manufactured by the Town Robinson Fasteners Co.
Bolts from these companies were used across several years.
I have the MMC book on B Body fasteners 1969-1970 if you need something specific for those...
I had Original Air Original Air Group restore my hoses and supply a new R134a compatible drier (p/n 12-300) You will also need a R134a expansion valve. All assuming you are converting to 134a. Let me know if you have more questions.
Jim
Found the coolant leaks after removing all the parts. The cause was no sealant on the threads of 2 bolts. 2 that go into the water jacket!! The root cause was another case of stupidity!! All the other bolts that required sealant has sealant applied!! I think what happened was that I put the...
Classic Industries has the clips for the finish panel. Not correct original but they should work ok. 1969 Plymouth Barracuda Parts | Exterior Trim | Moldings | Trunk Moldings | Classic Industries Remember to put some mastic sealer around the bolts so water doesn't get into the trunk.
Forward and Back
Powered up the electrical sytem and checked to make sure everything worked. A couple of minor issues but all is good.
Next step was to fill cooling system and then prime the oil system before first start. Added glycol and checked 3 times to make sure no leaks. Had dinner and...