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Seeing that VR reminds me, they MUST be at same ground potential (voltage) as battery neg. I would just replace that one it looks so bad, and get some, either internal or external "star" lock washers and make sure it is mounted tight.

I have never tried to weld or repair resistor (nichrome) wire but am sure it could be done. Also you should be able to figure out a "redneck" mechanical repair to clamp the broken resistor together. Have you looked at it? It is all open, coiled resistor wire. Very accessible

The fan should at least work on "hi" with a bad resistor. Sounds more like the switch. You must test for voltage under a load, AKA with motor connected

This type of problem, in addition to advice above, is generally caused by several issues 1. VR. If you still have the OEM electo-mechanical regulator, that alone can cause this 2...Poor brushes / worn/ dirty/ poor contact in the alternator 3...Other problems in the alternator such as...

No. The IVR is part of the cluster, not something else. Use either the OEM built in one if it works, or buy something like an RTE. There is a sort of "how to" on the RTE site on how to do that https://www.rt-eng.com/index.php/RTE_limiter.html...

There is no reason to use a "strap." Just use a cable similar to the hot side. Ground the battery to the BLOCK. That is the highest current, IE the starter. Use another cable from the block to the firewall. Look at your alternator mount on the pass. side head. That/ those same holes...

I think your diagnosis is BS. Lots of rear drums are not swedged. I have seen fronts such as on pickups and 4x4s that slip on just like the rears. Did you have them turned? Did you check them for out of round? Has anybody been whanging on anything, AKA bent, damaged? How did...

^^This and treat each problem as if they are separate because they just might be. For example, the headlight power ONLY (not park or tail) comes directly off the ammeter circuit to the light switch. There is no fuse, except the main fuse link, and a breaker built into the light switch...

My apologies, I miss-read the price

How many do you have available?

Thanks a bunch. Most the guys I knew are either retired, out of it or even dead. I first started for a few years over in Spokane, there were only 4 of us counting the owner. They did mostly commercial maintenance/ repair and when I arrived, they had gotten themselves into lumber...

Thanks. The city are being xxxxxx LOL. Nobody has given me a SPECIFIC reason. The are hinting that it's because of building condition. Well HELL!! I know that, I'm not trying to heat it to 70F all day. I just want temp heat for keeping pipes alive, and working in there on...

Did a bit of insulation on the trailer the other day. Screwed a big piece of styrofoam right over the "front" door which is right next to the bed. I am gonna put a rope through and across it, so in an emergency, I can rip a hole in the foam, open the door through the opening, and then just...

It's 7:30AM, Wed. I JUST got back in from taking a shower. The vanity top and shink, toilet, and shower/ tub have been cleaned up enough that I can see they will be saved. I am going to attempt to clean and paint the vanity cabinet. The bathroom is the KEY. I have put in 3 valves in...

No, not. A period of "fake." I still need to clean up the remnants of the ceiling blown in insulation, which, because of the water, (firefighting) some of that is "glued" to the rafters, etc. We can't really put the ceiling in until I get most of the wiring straightened out...

My neighbor's kid recently turned 18 and immediately started causing trouble. He had a good job with an outfit, but they also hire ?? foreigners ?? I could not get from the neighbor just what these guys are. Anyway, the kid could not get along with them and got fired. BEFORE he got...

That is a puzzle. The jumper should be in the yellowish wires. Someone must have bypassed it elsewhere. In other words it should not crank. Here's how things work. You have IGN1 off the ignition switch, is the only "run" line from the key which goes into the engine bay. That powers...

The seat belt interlock will only prevent it from cranking. Without a photo of the connector and some idea of the location, no idea What needs to be jumpered on the seat belt interlock reset connector are the two yellowish wires, which are the "start" wire coming from the key...

A charger is a poor substitute for a battery. The old ones make tons of ripple, AKA very dirty output. An, if you have something, say a radio, with ANY solid state stuff, they output is so dirty it could damage something. Also, for starters, most chargers are pretty limited for amperage.

EDIT LOL I was typing.................. May or may not be the starter relay, "how it works." Notice you have two flag/ push on terminals on the relay. These are the relay coil. The huge stud gets power from the battery, serves as a junction point for other components, and is one of the...

Aren't all three of them? 67, 68, 69 "one year only?"

It may be a glitch. (short rant:) I HATE Phlakebooke Marketpharce. Worst search engine on the internet. I use a PC, web based, no app. I've had the search function as well as other functions just quit and stop for a day or three.

I REALLY hate modern tube fittings, as some of them are metric, and some of them have gone to "bubble flare." The lack of compatibility is stupid. Twice I've gone to the so called parts store, got from the so called parts person, a piece of tube, pre flared with fittings, and it...

Not always on several counts. Many fuel fittings on pressurized gas, and sometimes just proprieatry "stuff." At least the older Makita drills had a LH thread screw down inside the chuck to lock it to the shaft. We used to use those shortie double ended 1/8 bits for sheet metal...

On way around this which I've suggested numerous times is to add a relay. Electrically cut the "run" IGN1 wire where it comes through the bulkhead connector and before it branches off and use that to trigger a relay. Connect the engine bay harness end of the wire to the NO switched...

That test actually does not prove very much. You already know you don't have power. Look again, the simple diagram I posted above, from the "MAD" page. All the red on the left side of the ammeter feeds power from battery--to starter relay stud-through fuse link--through bulkhead...

Be careful what changes you make in 76. I'm pretty sure it had an "external shunt" ammeter, but the actual wiring harness is what is used as a shunt!!! So if you go around modifying the harness, the ammeter may become non functional, damaged, or be grossly inaccurate.

Yes. But if you don't have the body manual, download that from there as well. There is some wiring shown in the body manual as well In the chassis manual, get into the schematics area and read all through that. My page no's may not be the same, but some examples. The Dart stuff starts...

OldManMopar on here, Steve, is a well know Mopar pretty much expert. he claims he wrecked his very nice Duster because of aftermarket upper A arm bolts.

The old thread posted above is the only go to I know about. I was happy with mine, left the original needle on the voltmeter. Some guys superglued the old ammeter needle onto the new voltmeter to better match it. I used the face of my ammeter, and there is a pot adjustment in there, so...