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Lookin' good, man! I really appreciate seeing that car progressing again.

SO, you think you really need a shift kit or not? Maybe a double shift kit?

Maybe if you weren't such a dick you'd answer the OP's question. :violent1: (hint: it's about shift kits)

Not me. It's a ridiculously simple answer to a simple question: Do you really need a shift kit? Of course not. Duh. Do you really want one? Of course you do, because obviously you wouldn't be asking the question if you had a built transmission, or knew how to build it yourself. Now all...

Are you implying you have "un"limited knowledge? :prayer: Ahem. Everybody has "limited" knowledge. That's why one of the things "smart" people with limited knowledge do when they want to "increase" their knowledge, is exchange "information" with other like-minded individuals in among other...

I've used one of these on my old mechanically injected Cummins for years with great success. That engine is particularly problematic in this regard because once air gets in the lines you have to manually bleed the injectors, which is rather a large PITA. Even the tiniest imperfection somewhere...

Done right, a shift kit is going to benefit any trans, street, strip, whatever. They made them soft from the factory on purpose to feel smooth, which is what most customers wanted. I put the TF2 in my Chrysler a few year back and the difference was very noticeable - quick shifts with minimal...

I'm convinced manifold heat is only really important for cold driveability and associated quicker warmup in cold climate. I struggled for years getting my 440 to run right during the summer where it would constantly be suffering the carb boiling and hard starting issues associated with heat and...

I would say that's a mistake, right there.

Yes, I'll be looking out for it too. I already put alot of time and money in it and hated to see it got, but sometimes life takes over and things change. Good luck with it Todd, and don't hesitate to contact me if any questions...

Well as long as we got this thread hijacked now... Slow in comparison to anything that is faster and faster than the vast majority of a-bodies that came off the assembly line with /6's, 273's and 318's. 383's were standard in the fuesy C's. Pound for pound, car for car, engine for engine...

I had the right hip replaced at age 53 back in January. Definitely a very traumatic experience, but well worth it. Just follow instructions and DO THE REHAB!

Ever heard of the Chrysler TnT? Hurst package? They were many things, but slow was not one of them. And again, I am not talking about just C-bods. Every RB engine, regardless of what it was installed in. The pan was slightly different due to idler clearance on the C, but not much different...

Chrysler, Dodge and Plymouth cranked them off the assembly line in large numbers, mass-produced. But then again, their state of mind has been questioned from time-to-time. And it did not matter, hot or not. It was a design deficiency present in every single one of them.

Stock big blocks actually did have a designed-in-by-Mopar lube system deficiency created by a combination of the 187 pan and the total volume of oil available for the system. It didn't normally show up in regular driving, but it was there. The system used enough oil in normal operation...

Questions about the interior seems to be a common theme in the phone calls I've been getting. I posted some new pics to the web page showing more details on that topic yesterday. The carpet was replaced when I did the floors (including a welded-in stud for that tach) and the rest of it is all...

Somebody has got to want this car. Check out this pic of the rear chassis. Is that one stout-looking business end of an A-bod, or what?!

Too bad everyone that's come to see it so far seems to be looking for either a cheap flipper or a pristine original.

I'm guessing the OP means ditching the T-bars and somehow replacing them with air bags.

Dang! I'm only 10 hours north of El Paso. Look what you could've had for only $6k: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=240900 http://www.allpar.com/forums/topic/150342-custom-74-duster-with-340727-in-frederick-co/

Nice work!

Why not a '74 with a '71 RR engine in it? Here ya go: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1970063147#post1970063147

It's gonna be farther away from me when I put it in storage somewhere around here after another few months! :wack: Somebody else NEEDS this car. :burnout:

So nobody in the market for a good running Duster with a super heavy duty race-ready chassis? It's built for a big block if you really want to get serious with it.

The interior is just old/original. the seats need recovered, headliner, stuff like that. You can get a pretty good idea of the interior condition from these 2 pics: http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/duster_09.jpg http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/duster_22.jpg The...

It has a small rear seal leak and the wiper needs the connecting arm attached. There, you got me! No catch, just needs a new home. I really don't want to sell it, but it's not a daily driver, kids can't or won't drive it, and no room to keep it any more. Like I said, I'll keep it in...

$6,000 firm. That is maybe half what I have in it. Located in Frederick, CO. Only reason I'm selling is no place to keep it any more. Hoping it sells before getting bashed in a hailstorm, or I end up renting a storage space for it, come winter. Link to all the pics...

A cast crank balancer commonly has a hole or holes drilled in it. Forged balancers are solid. There may be other differences.

It should be a steel crank then, if you are saying it still has the earlier 71 engine. But considering a dealer worked on it I'd confirm. There was a change over to the low compression engine around mid '71. If you mis-match converter balance you'll be taking apart again.

Is the '71 340 a steel or cast crank? That's the biggest issue WRT torque converter selection, then you'd want to consider the tire/gear combo and HP range for stall, etc.