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Yes, please do so. Also, if you happen to have parts cars handy....need the little plastic bulb holder for the license plate on Dusters/Dart Sports. Mine broke when I removed it to rechrome the bumper. There are NOS available, but I'd rather not spend $40-60 for a new one. Piece broke when...

Need the window seals for the door glass for a 73 Dart Sport or Duster. These are the moulded ones that just pop into the channels mounted under the drip rails. Some vendors say they have "correct" ones, but never seem to have decent pictures. Previous posts from this forum lead me to believe...

Had to get a new engine for my 2015 Challenger R/T (found out it makes a better car than a submarine, but I digress..........). Engine had 6500 miles on it at the time of incident. It doesn't appear like this engine was even broken in yet, because the new engine (from Mopar Parts division) is...

The card for the cam I have shows you the degrees @.050 when the intake valve lifts OFF THE VALVE SEAT. With a 1.5 to 1 rocker, .050 at the valve seat is .0334 AT THE LIFTER. It makes a difference. When using the .0334 lift number while reading straight off the lifter, the open/close events...

Was in a salvage yard almost 20 years ago, and ran across a St Regis/Fury that had FOUR fender tags (along with a cherry Duster roof panel that they cut off for me for $50, but I digress......) From the outside, it looked like your grandma's "Go to Church" car.......but looking at the...

Re previous thread "Tired of looking at cam specs". After reading some of the commentary, decided to keep the old cam, look at the cam installation. Spent a day and a half, couldn't figure out why my installation would never match the cam card......was all over the damn place, no matter how...

Heads = original heads to the original motor, zero time since gone thru, new guides, 2.02 intakes, 340 springs.

Have been thinking about how to find a vacuum leak, if it still runs like crap. (The way this motor swap has gone from the get-go, there is no doubt in my mind that it will.....) I have a big vacuum pump for servicing a/c. Has anyone ever: 1) Pulled the rocker shafts, so all of the...

No power brakes......just PCV, distributor vacuum. Degreed in with degree wheel.

Comments/more info. Original Lunati Cam was degreed in......once with the keyway at "0", and later two degrees advanced. Didn't make much difference. It acts like it has a giant vacuum leak. Plan was to remove intake and check for leaks, then change cam to something closer to stock if...

The saga continues........ To recap........ Car = 73 Dart Sport street car, 340, A/T, 3.23, stock TF except for Turbo Action 11 inch street type converter. Engine = 340 +.030, Ross pistons, CR = approx 9.6 to 1, stock heads with 2.02 intakes, 340 springs/dampers, stock rods, stock...

More details, if anyone finds them pertinent.... 73 block, cast crank replaced with forged crank, stock rods, Ross pistons, assembly balanced, compression works out to 9.6-1. Stock heads had 2.02 intakes installed when three-angle valve job/guide replacement done. Goal: Look stock, run a lot...

After a year plus of being sidetracked due to work, finally getting back to the giant Charlie-Foxtrot. Engine in question = 1973 340 + .030, Auto Tranny, 9.5 compression, stock heads with 2.02 intake valves As I can't get this POS to run right (Run right = AT ALL) with the current...

Verified that TDC on the balancer matched TDC on the #1 cylinder when I assembled the short block. Plugs look like it may be running a little rich at idle. Car runs too bad to do a WOT check.

Asked about this last year, got the electrical issues fixed, got busy, project went on the back burner. Car: Dart Sport, 1973...original 340 had cracked block Located replacement 340, forged crank, stock rods, Ross pistons, calculated CR 9.6/1 or thereabouts...heads from the original 1973...

Update, if anyone is still following this thread...... As noted before, rang thru the ignition switch to check for continuity in "start" and "run". Just to clarify, the switch only showed continuity in crank/start ONLY when switch turned to start.......when switch released to "run", it...

Never said I had 12 volts at the coil in "run". When it runs, it has about 8-9 volts. Wiring on car is uncut, original 1973 harness for a five pin ECU. I've been running a four pin "orange box" also subbed in another brand new one, no difference. Wiring has been rung out, fusible links...

Car in question....1973 Dart Sport, Automatic History.....dropped in my long awaited/saved-money-for replacement 340. Drove car over to shop for swap, no electrical issues whatsoever. New engine in........cranks, lights off intermittently, or mostly not at all. Managed to get it running...

This is a 1973, with the switch in the steering column, and the flat electrical harness approx 1 foot long. Thanks.

Is anyone else having trouble with aftermarket ignition switches? I've had to buy two replacements from my local O'Reillys. The first lasted a little over a year, then went intermittent. The new one doesn't seem to be working at all.......no 12v (more like 4v) to the coil when cranking...

Finally got everything back together and resolved. Rebuit engine and tranny back in. Everything hooked up. Engine cranks, no start, no spark at the coil-distributor lead. Car ran fine prior to engine/tranny R & R. Checked voltage at the positive terminal of the coil. Only reads 5-6...

Okay, back to the mess....... Got the new motor and overhauled/rebuilt tranny installed. As mentioned previously, had to install the converter w/o any fluid in it. (New converter). Being a dumbass, decided to use the SFI flexplate I had lying around. Of course, it doesn't look like it is...

Converter was fully seated, but had to come forward 1/4-1/2 inch or less before it made contact with the flexplate. Started all four flexplate/converter bolts, then turned engine over with a breaker bar to finish torquing them to spec. Ring gear cleared fine at that time. And no, nothing got...

In the process of reinstalling a new 340 in this POS. Since the motor has been out of the car for 20 years, trying to slog thru the problems......missing pieces, stuff I need to replace not in stock anywhere in town, stuff not going together very well, etc. etc. etc. A little background...

Putting my 340 in the car. Just discovered that I'm not going to be able to use the Weiand Dual plane I was planning on using. Engine is a semi-mild hydraulic cammed, 9.5/1 street motor with an automatic, aftermarket street converter, 3.23 gear. Goal is to "look stock, with headers" for the...

BTW.......what a coincidence. My car is a "Petty Blue" '73 too. Except mine has the black "over the roof" stripes, and the hood scoop with black stripes.

True. You would think. But Ehrenberg and the transmission vendors always recommend that you check it, and adjust it with offset dowels. Trouble is, you can't really do it correctly without the transmission torn down to the bare case. Unless, of course, the factory figured out a way to do...

Okay, so I'm about ready to bolt my new motor onto my numbers matching tranny. I know that the alignment between the c/line of the crank and the c/line of the tranny/torque converter need to be close, to prevent breakage and/or premature wear. Soooooo........if this is so important, how...

Crank end play = .006". Other than the rod side clearance deal, this motor looks like it's going to be a sweetie........excellent straight bores, clearances checking real good/dead-nuts on, etc. Found this motor as a replacement for my "H" code car that had a cracked block. Was a...

Putting together my 340 (finally). Got the rods/pistons in and torqued. Everything is looking real good on this thing, except the rod side clearance on the 3-4 and 5-6 rods are too much.....book sez .014 or thereabouts, on these two pair of rods, it's more like .020. Big deal or no? I'm...