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To clarify, the "additional" resistance is being measured between the block and battery not from the sensor its self.

I came across this by accident while checking the resistance of some new sending units. What I noticed is that when the key is on (Run), the measured resistance from the sender to the block was ~10 ohms less than the the resistance from the sender to the negative post of the battery...

The socket for the round gauge cluster connector is Molex PN 2091104.

Question: Is it common practice to have a drive shaft re-balanced after replacing a slip yoke? I see a lot of chatter about this as it pertains to "slip joints" but haven't really read much (valuable) in regards to slip yokes.

I had a 98.5 24 valve (the switch from 12v to 24V was mid-year), still kicking myself for selling it. Anyway..... The TPS (if they are talking about a throttle position sensor )on a 24 valve is on the engine above the injection pump. It's easy to get to. The biggest thing to look out for on a...

Another Powermaster recommendation. I had already rewired my car so the bulkhead wasn't a concern for me. I am using their 90 amp rated alternator with a similar setup to you. Sniper with the in tank pump (FBO ignition) and an electric fan. With the headlights and fan on at idle, the system is...

Have you changed out to a different oil filter (made sure something else isn't in bypass?). I recently went through this with the Hemi in my wife's durango. I still haven't cut open the filter to see what the deal was but this one filter (the same brand and PN that I always used) was...

My 2¢, I ran a few (low pressure) electric fuel pumps before switching to a Sniper system with an in-tank pump. By far the quietest pump I ran was a Holley HP 125. I also understand that the carter pumps are relatively quiet. The noise from the popular diaphragm and vane-style pumps will...

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Not had time to get good pictures, but here is one from the top down. The z bar kind of blends in with the background, but if you zoom in you can get an idea of how a "modified" z bar fits between the starter and headers.

Although it wasn't bad enough to cause the pedal not to return, I had a similar issue, but it did slow its return down. When I installed my Dougs headers, I modified my own z bar and just assumed I got a measurement wrong (As dano mentioned, it's a tight fit regardless). I bent the arm a bit...

Only have a year on the headers, but so far so good with VHT. I had access to a sand blaster, so that and a good wash with acetone was my prep. I used the VHT primer let it cure for a few days and gave it a few heat cycles with a heat gun. Final coat was also "cured" before I installed the...

I think the key to how "well" these work is that they have some level of smarts inside of them. Most of the ones I have seen take a bit of warm up time before they are ready to actually jump the car. My guess is that the box is getting some baseline for the battery charge. As soon as it sees...

I have one of the smaller NOCO Jump starters. Its "only" rated at 500 amps. Seeing it in action I would say its delivering every bit of that. From a convenience perspective its nice to have something that is small enough to store in the car.

Hi All, I lurk, read/ research on this website a lot, and have learned a ton over the years by reading through various forums. Many of the "what is the best lifter or best cam" discussions lead me to the question below. My current setup. (Please keep in mind this was put together long before...

I have been there although it was nearly 20 years ago (for a 4-H national archery competition). I remember there being plenty to do both at the Whittington center and nearby attractions. Everyone we interacted with were great. The facility its self was top notch and huge (still remember how...

The High School I attended had (and I am assuming still has) a slant 6 setup similar to this for backup power. I never got to spend a lot of time looking at all the details of it but was never able to find any markings indicating who made it or at least who made the generator portion.

I live just north of Longmont and might be able to take a look. PM me if you want to chat about it some more.

This guy has become one of my favorites.

@moderators Just realized I didn't put this in the brakes, steering and suspension forum. Please move it if necessary.

It fit well. The only reason I am selling it is because I couldn't get enough backspace with the wheels I run. I screwed up on my original backspace measurements and forgot to factor in the tire section width. If I hit a large enough bump, I would get some fender to sidewall contact. It was...

Location Berthoud Colorado Asking $450 Local pickup preferred. Please PM for details Details: This was pulled from a 66 Charger and has had the spring perches moved in for an A body (44" to 43") 741 case with open 3.23 gears. As far as I know, it has never been touched. I simply cleaned...

X2 on Alpha OBD, if you own a modern Chrysler vehicle it's 100% worth the cost of the app. You can program a new FOB but you will need to get the car's PIN code from a friendly dealer. (some don't play nice with this request) If you search the interwebs there are is a lot of info about how to...

I dont know for certain (a younger,dumber, impatient me didn't take the time to check). 78 block w/ flat top pistons. 360 heads shaved .040. If I remember right the guestimation was 9ish:1

I have run the 14's and had issues with the engine wanting to "diesel" when shutting it off. That is what led me to the 12's. All of that said, lots of fine-tuning has taken place since then. Might be worth trying them again.

I have run Champion RN12YC's and can't complain one bit. Recently I ended up with NGK (BPR5ES) because my local parts house couldn't get the champions. It may just be me, but I swear the car idles better with the NGK. I am not saying it's because the NGK is a better plug, but my engine combo...

In terms of the B Body units. The pre 70 (correct me if I am wrong) B body units are overall narrower than the later units. I have one out of a 66 charger in my 74 duster and simply moved the perches in as mentioned above. Getting the right wheel backspace is really the key to making this work.

I think I know what you are talking about, somewhat of an all-or-nothing feel. I can't say mine feels like a Honda (My wife had a 5-speed accord, I hated that clutch feel, well the whole car with a passion).

I can't say which one is best, but I run a Centerforce dual friction clutch. With my combination, I can't complain about it at all. My understanding is that with diaphragm style clutches it's preferred to have the pedal spring removed. I did on mine, no impact on pedal feel/force.

Yeah, I was using an old sun timing light that was my grandpa's. I may throw it in again and play around with this some more. For now, I can't say there was a performance change and I like the rev limiter on the FBO