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Just got thru replacing the split rad expansion tank, lotsa online info on how bad they are. Brittle clips, snap together all break. To replace tank you have to, repeat, have to break the thermostat housing at the bottom. Tank and housing $400 +. Putting the broken **** in the trunk, there's the...

Everything ! ! lol

I love gravy too, good gravy. All the flavor and good stuff is in the drip pan. My gut won't take a lotta spice, but whatever's in the drip pan, has water added, the bits and black stuff get dissolved as possible, let the grease settle, pour off all the stuff above the grease on the bottom thru...

Just to get this straight, - you're building a whole drive train around a B- body shifter including long tailshaft trans ?

With the small front bearing and a worn trans, - 3rd gear deflection where the shafts meet, loose clearances, 3 fat friends, it adds up.

Yes

For final finish, I make little "booties" with pieces of "scotchbrite" pads and a staple, slips over the stones, and smoothes the surface to aid seating, Saves buying a different set of extra fine stones, jmo Standard procedure in my shops, dozens of times, by misc mechanics . Cheers

If you can slow the drill down, and increase the speed of the stroke, maybe spend a short while trying to get a 45* cross-hatch as in pic. Helps seat and lube rings, otherwise, good job...

We generally upped the thermostat to a 195*, gave warmer air outta heater. Hence the " summer/winter" thermostats I remember as a kid. Cheers

Thank-you tjpatte . Cheers

Not sure if it helps your swap, but Dana67Dart just dug up a "where the engine should be", perhaps it may help you.

Thank-you Dana67 Taking screen shot now.

The TTI Engine Placement link died . "Footnote #39" https://ttiexhaust.com/Footnotes/FN_39.htm Does anyone have an alternate link, or possibly post a screenshot if saved. Shoulda done it myself. Thank-you .

I've only worked on a coupla shorty header vehicles, they are a mess. I won't ding a ceramic header cuz it fractures the ceramic, think porcelain, glass. Water get in the cracks inner and outer and rust developed. TTI had issues like that, I stopped installing them. I'm presuming you read...

I haven't been following, cuz my mind was set about 4 posts in. I hope somewhere it was mentioned the owner should be told, and the decision should be his . jmo.

I'm suggesting insteada dropping a grand on carb/injection, manifold, do the exhaust first. Carb and manifold are easily swapped on a b blk, from the top.

It's the old air-pump logic. You spend a ton of money changing a 3 inch pump into 4 inch, - a ton more money changing the heads, intake, carb, camshaft to change the 3 inch inlet to 4 inch, and you leave a 3 inch outlet on it. Totally backward try to cram all that flow thru puny exhaust system...

Another thing to know is that if you don't torque the loose replacement wheel studs in the wobbly hole, before the spot welds, -- they will crack over time/vibration/heat, - and let the stud spin at the worst time. Ask me how many times I know, - towing was part of my business.

If you try to break it, you will . 4 fat friends in the car dropping the clutch at 4k, good chance.

If it works good, leave it. The residual valve in the rear brake circuit should be removed or perforated if still there. ( See pix ) If you like the feel, - fine, - if it feels too hard to push, you could go to a smaller bore M/C, still Mopar. If feel the need for another expensive decal, go...

That'd be driver's side, that goes under the steering gear.

Careful of the paint. Chase the pressure from m/c back. Somethings blocked ?

Are the front caliper pistons metal or composite ? Had a lotta trouble with composite pistons in some cases, and aluminum caliper frames seizing up after sitting .( off-season ).

Nice car, by the way, 440 ? You've certainly researched, and seem to have covered all the bases right down to braided hoses. Good job. 2 thoughts, no personal knowledge, slight chance, there was a pedal assembly with a different ratio pedal, doubt it. The second is the pad composite, curious how...

Is your pedal rock hard and near the top of travel ?

Thnx for the pix .

I'd appreciate seeing that, thank-you .

Probably 90% of my " no start" service calls were Dead battery or "bad terminal" connections .

"Rap test" the new small starters often shatters the ceramic magnets.

@slantsixdan may be able to help you .