Search results for query: *

I just checked with a piston stop and if it isn't dead on it's one or two degrees off. That's similar to what I found using this tool a couple of months ago, so i feel pretty confident in the timing marks.

Yeah, but I got paranoid with metal on metal contact and a breaker bar:)

I did test tdc before starting this using one of those spring tools that moves up and down with the piston. I can go back and double check with a stop tool. I was just a little worried about damaging the piston by cranking too hard on it since I've never used a piston stop before. I'll do...

Based on one of the previous suggestions I increased my initial timing to get the idle mixture screws to have more affect. RPM increased until 35 degrees so that's where I put it and then adjusted it back to 30. I did lock out the distributor.

I found out the engine doesn't like 35 degrees advance, at least not all the time. When hitting the gas in 4th gear around 35 miles per hour I got spark knock that I have never had before. At least I know what that sounds like now. The starter also kicked back when I tried to start it hot, so...

For the AFR reading, somewhere around 12 at cruise and 15 at part throttle acceleration is what I wound up with using the smallest jet and biggest rod. I just adjusted timing. When I went to 12 the idle mixture screws had no affect even at 600 RPM. I ran the screws all the way in and the car...

Currently I have the 74 jet and the 64/56 rod, so the smallest jet and largest rod available.

I have the 8 in Hg spring in for the metering rods. I looked for a 10, but haven't seen one. I haven't thought to mess with the timing to adjust it yet. I have it set at 20 degrees BTDC at idle and around 36 risk mechanical (and then ported vacuum advance on that). My idle screws are...

I'm always up for suggestions. I didn't mean to come across as dogging the carb too much. I just think with a few small design changes tuning it would be easier. I've had it for years now and it works well, it's never leaked, and it always starts (all my starting issues have been...

I recently nearly tuned my 625 CFM Street Demon and figured I'd share my experience. I bought this carburetor in 2015 and only recently spent the time to tune it. Lots of delays between then and now that are probably stories in themselves (and lots of helpful info from the forum) and I'm...

I had an intermittent electrical issue (maybe many) that I chased down for a while. Each time I thought I fixed it (with lots of help from the forum) it would come back a few weeks/months later (really destroys your confidence in driving the car, too). Mine showed up mainly as no start...

I went back out and checked the voltage during cranking and the meter read essentially 0 (200 mV) which was odd since it started yesterday. I checked voltage at the brown wire at the ballast during cranking and found 0 volts there, too. I traced that wire back to the bulkhead and made sure...

Checked this morning and only have 300 mVAC from the plug on the distributor side of the connection. Is this enough to trigger the control module? However I did notice the car acted like it wanted to start after the key was released and a little smoke came up through the carburetor. Not sure...

The story behind this is the guy who restored the car couldn't get it to start with the ballast so he bypassed it. This was one of the things I was eventually going to try to figure out why (it doesn't make sense to me why, but it would not run with a ballast) so now is as good a time as any...

To test the coil tower, I used this tester at the 10 mm distance and it gave a good spark when it sparked. For the spark plug spark checks I used the Lisle inline spark tester. All of my spark tests have been done with the key (using either my son or my wife to help). I'll rerun the AC tests...

(Long story, question at the end) I have a 73 Duster with a 340 and an electronic ignition. Three weeks or so ago the car started and drove fine. Tuesday I went to drive it and it did not start. I checked for spark at the #1 spark plug with a spark tester and didn't see any spark. Then I...

My address is Stanley (which is in Gason county), but I'm actually in Lincoln County. Weird how all that lines up. It keeps growing here and the road projects keep getting delayed. We'll have to see how it is in a few years.

VR-1 has always been advertised as the high ZDDP oil, so I was certain it was just the new bottle design (you know the type; same product different look) when I bought mine last. If you look at the first bottle in the third picture it also says it exceeds SL in the smaller print. I haven't...

My plan is to run 8 gauge wire through the firewall into the ammeter as is outlined in the wiring diagram. There is a jumper at the bulkhead connection between ports P and Q. The wiring diagram in the service manual has various notes about with 60 Amp alternator and without 60 Amp alternator...

I have a 73 Duster and, hopefully, within the next month will be bypassing the bulkhead connector. I have the 73 manual with the wiring diagrams and this diagram shows a 60A alternator option that bypasses the bulkhead so I am planning on copying this for the most part. This leads me to a few...

B3 is Basin City which I think is the same as Petty Blue?

It's been like this since first installed so I don't think it is the clutch. I messed with the turnbuckle a little, but pedal travel is limited by the brackets. I'll see if I can rig something to that top post without doing any cutting or drilling to see if that helps with cylinder rod alignment.

Back when I had my 73 Duster restored I had the drive train swapped and had a Keisler perfect fit kit (TKO 500) put in it. This came with a hydraulic clutch setup. I never liked the clutch pedal in this car. The way it is setup, i have to push the pedal as far as it will go and it still will...

This is going to be the easiest thing. All of the reproductions have linear resistance values, but they are new, consistent, and not too much money.

It wouldn't surprise me. This was all put in back when I had the car restored and I did have the engine swapped from a slant six. It's either that or something similar to the 27" universal cable Classic Industries sells. I've always thought my pedal was a little stiff. Maybe this explains it!

I didn't take it apart, but I measured what I had in the engine bay as best I could. I am around 23" there so add the firewall and the cable at the pedal. The cable housing is backed up into the distributor and I think there is some binding with the way it is running. I'll look for a shorter...

When I get some time in the next few days I'll see if I can measure it. Maybe the wrong one was put on.

I have a 73 340 and replaced the Edelbrock Performer I had with a Street Demon carburetor. Upon doing so, I essentially ran out of throttle cable adjustment at the bracket. The throttle cable is a stock style cable. Is there a way to adjust this cable a little shorter so that I can have more...

Mine is the petty blue 73 duster.

I had a great time and I won third place in the modified A-body category. It rained a little toward the end, but other than that was great weather, too.