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Still here too :canada:

On my '72 Demon 340

Love these Bee's, best looking by far!

Spotted mine doing a burnout....lol :rofl: '72 Demon 340/4spd Suregrip

Dropped the heater box on the Demon on Sunday, since it was nice out...+15C, to replace the heater core (old one leaked more than went through it...lol).....easy enough to drop the whole box. I ordered the TSM heater core (after seeing from others here that the other brands did not fit...

Yes, you southerners are lucky....lol.....winter sucks up here....although it has been fairly mild so far.

'72 True H code Demon 340 ('71 340 mill), 4 spd Hurst pistol grip, 8 3/4 Sure Grip, '71 & '72 grill, retro '80's vibe interior :lol: ...just up the road about 45 mins from you.

'73 Duster, cloned to a '71 (tail panel, front clip), 7 1/4 rear end: You can fit 295/50/15 on the rear, as pictured here. Not sure of the backspacing that the rims had though. Tires would only rub if they bottomed out going up into the curve of the fender well (if you get what I am meaning to...

I am more familiar with the duster/demon locations (so package tray VIN may not apply to the scamp), and moparmat2000 is correct about VIN partial being stamped on rear package tray.....it is usually found around the lip of the drivers side speaker hole. To OP: Pic to illustrate where to look...

Noted.....I was assuming I would need a different/stock pickup....thanks

Thanks!

...stupid question: with a HV oil pump and stock pan, is there any concern of running the pan dry? I want to eliminate my deep sump 6-7 qt pan and put a stock one on for clearance issues. This deep sump sucks being this low....lol Thanks in advance.

indeed.....drive it like you stole it :icon_fU: ...maybe try an aftermarket headlight housing with HID kit in them. I have tried every bulb known to man for headlights in my truck for work and a 5000K or 6000K HID kit is by far the best brightest light.

Definitely brings back old memories.......I am in that 50 Yr age range too. Brings back the carefree, wild, fun and hell raising days of youth, that are now long gone.........still can be wild and fun when older, but it takes longer recovery time...lol. Best times of your life are the younger...

-headliner, paint inside of doors (metal portion), custom console, stereo. Maybe redo red crushed velvet parts (keeping the retro 80's interior look) -new heater core...freshen up heater box while it is out -maybe paint. Ice white/Molten Orchid

In the old days in my '71 Demon, we kept our "Electric Lettuce" in there (good for booze storage too).....being the bad *** in a mopar, I was back then, pulled over 100 times, the cops never found it :icon_fU:

Nice score on the Demon! Demon's are getting harder and harder to find nowadays, because of their low production numbers. -If that "leaning tower of power" slant 6 is in decent shape, it is a nice little bulletproof engine. -In checking for rust issues underneath....make sure you check over...

That seems to be a little tight for clearance to rad.....I am no fan flex expert, but your fan does flex when you apply heavy RPM's. Not sure if this flex or "growing" goes toward the rad or back to motor away from it. You may want to test without rad in for a moment and give 'er some throttle...

hit the nail on the head............you don't have to buy some aftermarket overpriced mini starter. Just the stock starter from a '95'ish era dakota small block. I like the mini starters, as to having way faster cranking and turn over of the motor. The big old stock starter always makes it sound...

Yes, will do. I was following a thread on heater cores.....good/bad ones to order, I will have to find it again before ordering....thx

.............and no fan shroud/or inadequate shroud, to force pulling air through the rad, and not around it. Although you have found (or your new mechanic) other issues causing your overheating problems.....that little fan and no shroud is not helping you cool anything........you might want to...

I would attempt to fill those gaps/seal them with something, if at all possible. You want to draw as much air through the fins on the front of the radiator as possible, to optimize your cooling.

Thanks for link/info......as I was just going to ask if there was a kit and where to get, as I have to drop my heater box to put in a new heater core coming up this spring..........and thought I might as well re-freshen the whole box.

Welcome from Sask!

Mopar mania in Saskatoon today. I can not go sadly, due to work.

Ya, that's close enough.....lol :welcome:

:welcome: Your read/search, then ask questions method will probably benefit you the most..........as 90% of the answers are already here somewhere....lol. I find you learn so much more by searching first, as you gain a more in-depth knowledge of the subject you are searching for.

I would be with 1969383S and suspect wiring and/or a grounding issue. I would buy a new VR Plug, as it may have bad connections INSIDE it where you can not see.....I have had this issue with a VR Plug before....looks good and may test good, but once you are driving the bad connections inside it...

I finally had time today to go wrench on the 340 head. I didn't pull the head and used the old rope in cylinder trick to hold the valves up, so I could change out the springs in cylinder #2. Swapped out both springs for that cylinder with the Melling vs-1120 springs. The rocker and valve tip...

I was agreeing with you about the springs being junk....it was maybe my wording that seemed like the heads were junk as well......no problem, it's all good. I honestly appreciate the candid feedback.....my feelings rarely get hurt, no worries there....lol....no need to beat around the...