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Love the white hood too! I was undecided whether I'd like the black hood or not. For now I'll leave it in the black for this season.

Short of a few burnouts down my driveway I haven't driven it on the street. But I can tell it's going to be some fun.

Here's the final product, 4 years in the making. Can't wait to start taking her to the shows...

A few shots of the black hood on the car. Installed a Classic Sound radio with bluetooth connectivity. Painted the center console top plates black to match the inside doors. Sent out my Corbeau seats to get wrapped up in the original vinyl to match the back seats. A local interior guy...

Fitted the hood scoop in from the underside of the hood by removing the ribs. Fit it on the car before it was painted. Setting up the hood for the ribs to be glued and welded back in. Painted the topside of the hood code 8700 black with PPG's global satin clear.

Sprayed the car in DCC Concept PW1 After the car was wet sanded and polished. Brought the car home to install the dynamat sound deadener, glass and interior.

Sprayed the jambs on the car after the body was sprayed in sealer. Spray booth and car were cleaned a day prior to the paint job.

It's been a while but progress on the car hasn't stopped. Actually finished over the winter. I will post the progress pictures up until now... Shortened the rear end to get the deeper dished welds to fit Went with Calvert Mono-leafs and a Cal-Trac setup for the rear suspension First time...

Laid down some paint Mocking up my back wheels before I narrow the 8 3/4 rear; wheels are Weld RTS S71's with a 5.5 BS on a 10 inch wide rim. Had to modify the passenger side harness to route the PDC wire inside the car. Also gives the passenger side apron some more breathing room. When...

Some more updates on the car... Pulled the running gear out to do some body work Welded in a core support brace to tie in the frame rails from US Car Tool Also mocking up a reinforcement for the vertical support I cut for the intercooler Mounted everything to the firewall before starting...

I'm using all the factory Challenger Hellcat cooling as far as the supercharger goes. As for BeCool, I called them up and told them what I was doing and drew me up a radiator that they felt would do best in my application. And as far as the Milodon oil pan, I have not yet started or put oil in...

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Nice car! I'd have to double check with my notes at the shop I remember it being around 120 ft/lbs in the end. Since it was a TTY bolt it was an initial torque + a rotation of a certain amount of degrees.

Just saw this post lol. I'm not running AC but I am running the factory Hellcat power steering pump. I have heard of pressure issues on some of the gen 3 hemi swaps, but I will see what happens when I get to that point.

I'm painting the core support white like it was. It's just preference but I prefer everything white behind the grill especially with the aluminum intercooler.

Using the factory Valiant fuse box. The headlight harness will just need to be extended since I ran it under the wheel well.

Took some photos tonight of what I have so far. Need to mount the fuel pressure regulator and run some oil lines and this thing can be taken apart to be body worked and painted. Used a BeCool Radiator setup. Made my own custom bracket since I wasn't a fan of the ones provided. Supercharger...

Running -8AN Supply and Return Lines from my Tanks INC EFI tank. I am utilizing their "Hellcat Fuel Pump". Good for up to 900+ HP and EFI compatible. This really was a drop in system. I will eventually secure the lines to the frame rail, this is just for mock-up. Cut the side of the apron...

PDC and PCM Mounted Using a Vintage air 10x10 heater box Running the headlight harness, electric fan wires and supercharger water pump wires under the wheel well. Mounted the gas pedal Everything just fits under the dash In order to mount the alternator I had to grind down the two bottom...

Figured I haven't posted the build in a while, it's been a busy few months at work. Anyways here's what has been done since the last time. Ran the PCM wires into the car, I want to run the computer and components under the dash Here's how much clearance I now have behind the blower. Running a...

That's awesome, I came across that fitting for the back of the supercharger on instagram, may have even been the same car. Firewall is already fabbed up for me so there is no going back lol.

By creating a rectangular insert for the firewall it made it much easier to fabricate in and out of the car when needed. Although it may not look it, but there is plenty of room behind the supercharger for the air charge cooler sensor and fuel rail pressure sensor. Once I was happy with the...

The firewall was probably one of the most time consuming because I wanted to make everything look like it belonged without just having a square indentation in my firewall.

A few more updates on the build... All welds were grounded and the transmission tunnel was all body worked I used a urethane primer to seal the body work and bare metal. The floor will be wet sanded once I am ready for paint.

You are correct. Most of the intrusion was on the passenger side, however the water manifold was very close to the firewall in the center. Almost too close for my liking. I already was doing extensive fabrication work to the car so it didn't bother me to start from scratch and get the clearance...

I believe what you are referring to is a Torque to Yield fastener. The main bearing cap bolts are actually Torque to Angle fasteners. Everybody has a different opinion, but I have re-used Torque to Angle fasteners before in the past with no issues.

Any cross brace in a car gives it additional support. However, I have seen some builds where the torsion bar brace is capped off and left alone. That being said, on a car with torsion bars the torsion bar brace needs to be strong when the suspension is under load and I would definitely recommend it.

A Durango came by the shop wanting to swap an SRT8 hood on and I couldn't resist... With the running gear out I fitted my headers from TTI with my Borgeson steering box. I elongated the mounting holes for the steering box at the recommended .810 and massaging was still needed on the one...

With the running gear back out I weld the tunnel inside and out. I didn't like the angle my foot was at with the original floor pan so I cut it all out and made a new extension which came down slightly lower.

Before I removed the running gear I begin designing a firewall. The supercharger lays inside the car about 4 inches. Rather than modifying my current firewall I decided to start from scratch without interfering with the steering column and pedal components. I wanted to create a uniform hole...