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hi. i am going to try to give you the answers to the questions YOU asked. first things first , your actual compression ratio right now is closer to 9.5:1 ( i get 9.4). you could safely use a 65cc head and get around 10.2:1. that is assuming everyone is wrong and that you have stock replacement...

i know the pros will argue, but if you get 500 horses out of a set of HOME-ported j heads, call it good. if your goal is over that much, have the heads professionaly ported. but, power is not only head-flow related. the more money you throw at it, the quicker and faster the car will get.

comp sells +.050 and -.050 locks. they have it for 3/8 and 11/32 stems. for 10 degree retainers. inexpensive. this may be your best bet.

good used lifters for 273, 318, 340 and 360 for use with solid flat-tappet cams. i believe they came from a 273, unsure. very lightweight. if you plan on using a mechanical cam and want to avoid lifter failure, you need these. they were produced back when lifter damage was almost unheard of...

115us$ shipped . i just dont need these parts. make an offer if interested.

150us$ gets you valve springs, retainers, locks and cups. free shipping to any adress in the usa or canada. you cant beat that price ! no parts missing to do a complete set of heads. everything looks like new.

for 318,340 and 360 engines. here are some parts removed from my edelbrock heads in favor of roller-related parts. those parts include slightly used springs, locks, retainers and new cups. great for you guys buying bare heads or you would want to up-grade your chinese heads with made in usa...

sale pending

there is one guy before you. i will let you know if it fails

new price, 150us$ shipped anywhere in the usa or canada. how about that for a deal ? you need them for that big hydraulic or solid-lifter cam, no matter the cam manufacturer. or make an offer if it seems too expensive. this is all-new stuff.

how about 200$ shipped

replied.

arp-250-3006 is summit part number.

arp sells them new , arp part number 250-300-6. i probably have a set of used ones minus one. it would probably would make no sense in shipping them. pm me if you want used ones.

for sale are sbm comp cams springs 995-16, retainers 740-16, locks 626-16 and seals 505-16. parts are brand-new and complete (nothing missing ), the boxes have been opened. summit price is 283us$ plus shipping, my price is 260 us$, shipped anywhere in the us. price is slightly negociable...

how about that mopar performance lube, anyone remembers about it ?

i will have a look at it.

what is it that you would use, more modern ?

hi. i am building a stock 360 except for a mild cam and bolt-ons. the cam is not in the engine yet. i was going through some parts this afternoon and found 2 cans of what direct connection/ mopar performance used to call lubrizol (?) back in the day. it was to be used with flat-tappet cams. the...

did you check for oil pressure on a gauge ? seems like you said there was pressure to the filter. if the oil pressure on the gauge is low, dont expect for oil to the rockers. so, how much have you got on a gauge while priming the pump or crancking the engine ?

i mean on a oil pressure gauge. you could confirm you have pressure when removing the oil pressure gauge and priming the pump, there should be oil coming off where the gauge was . again, be ready for a mess.

do you have oil pressure now ?

you havent changed the cam, right ?

your idea of doing this without rockers seems to make sense. be ready for an oil mess though.

when you prime the pump with a drill , you will feel the drill being harder to hold when the pump starts to build pressure and the drill will rotate slower. then turn the engine 5 degrees at a time, eventually you will have oil flowing at the rockers on one side. go on and it will flow on the other.

when you changed the pump and you did the oil change, did you fill the filter with oil ? the filter should be dry, otherwise it is blocking oil to go to the top. happened to me on a pontiac 400. wish it is only that.

back to the original question about hood clearance. i took some measurements today and the carb might clear the hood. if not, it is going to be the carb vent tubes not clearing. if so, can i cut the tubes for clearance without messing the carb calibration ?

this is my way to get 150 hp more without using nitrous. costs a little more, though.

here are some.

you want pictures of my engine ?