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My rad support was damaged so I opted to cut it out. Allowed some more room for activities.

Indy LA-X?

What are you planning on for boost? Turbo?

If you want to move away from the dual sync I have all the cad files to make a Jeep cam sync sensor setup work, as well as a 32-1 crank trigger behind a March crank pulley. I have a set of SEP 600cc injectors I could part with, they use the jetronic/bosch mini-timer/“EV-1” connector as well. I...

Totally possible, and done pretty frequently. The reason for switching to a Jeep cam sync sensor is for packaging and the ability to swap the sensor easily.

I’m using one as well on a small block. If a small block and slant 6 distro drive are the same distance from the distro mounting surface I have the adapter cad file to have more made.

The turbo is the choke when the engine is off

Any chance you’ll run corn juice in it? Or strictly 91-93 gas? I think with E85 10.2:1 is do-able. It’ll certainly let you light the turbo off a bit faster. I’m stoked you’re thinking this, turbo slant sixes are awesome.

Oh the calamity!

Yeah in theory it should work as long as none of the message IDs overlap. The only thing is we don’t really know all the message IDs the epas is looking for and sending out. I figured it would be more safe to separate the busses and only pass info that we know is good.

Hey Rusty, I’ve been lurking! Just busy with life outside of car stuff unfortunately. Still plugging away here and there on the valiant when I can.

I haven’t read into MS that much but if you can set up custom frames that will send the right messages to the right ID for the epas you’re probably all good. Otherwise you’d need an “interpreter” in between. An arduino with a can shield that has two buses would work. You’d read the MS bus on one...

I made a can sniffer out of an esp32 board but I haven’t tried sniffing the epas unit yet. I found this thread though, if you read through you can see where one person has their code. Looking at that it seems he deciphered VSS and RPM can IDs and the scaling.

I know it’s a bit of money, but I think you’d be well served by getting a microsquirt and running the IO expander firmware. That’ll get you 12 more inputs and 7 more outputs. Can never have too many lol

It constrains the axle laterally, like a panhard or watts link.

I'm using a Holley Hall Effect sensor for my crank and a Ford Explorer Hall effect sensor for the cam. 3-wire will be hall effect and I like the square wave they produce.

I can whip you up a DXF file to have cut if you get me dimensions. Pictured below is my crank wheel setup. I welded a .250" aluminum ring to the back side of my crank pulley, drilled and tapped for a steel trigger. The steel trigger wheel is a .125" mild steel 36-1 that I had cut. Here's my...

I'll check the resistance between the front and rear frame rail when I get home. I'd love to be proven wrong and lose 1.5lb of wire.

I disagree, these cars are not machined from a single billet of steel. There's paint, seam sealer, crud and rust between every panel. You're basically relying on the spot welds at that point.

The first gen snipers, weren't the most reliable. Lots of failed ECUs and EMI problems as you said. The other problem is their marketing, "self-tuning", my ***. They NEED to be properly tuned. The "self-tuning" they talk about is short term fuel comp, which is fine but that still leaves at least...

Is this p/n 140-5402? I wonder if they changed the stud kit with the windage tray provision.

I'm excited to see where this goes. Stock 4" bore then?

I didn't even think about the compression tester, I'll give that a try.

Thats a crazy good idea! I'll see if I can cook something up.

Of course! I'm just trying to do it without buying the tool.

I'm sitting at work thinking about the car and I got to wondering. If I put compressed air in the spark plug hole, might I be able to hear where the air is leaving the chamber? Maybe this will help narrow down if it's one of the valves (hopefully) or the rings (please no).

I ordered a set of cometic head gaskets, I’ll pull the passenger head hopefully Monday and put a game plan together based on why I find.

Definitely not. I just checked compression on 1,5, and 7 because they are the easiest to get to and it looks like I'm down a hole. 1 and 7 were both 135psi, 5 was at 20. I took the valve cover off and it looked like the rockers were actuating but I'll check for bent pushrods and flat lifters on...

It doesn’t seem to be the coil or injectors, unfortunately. The injector wiring probes out fine as well. I guess it’s time to do a compression test.

I really hope it’s not the wiring, it’s the only portion of the loom I didn’t mess with! lol Good idea, I’ll swap injectors. I have one of those thermal thermometers so I’ll grab a reading and see if that tells me anything. I have another set of bigger injectors showing up tomorrow too so I...