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I had some miscellaneous pieces done here. But it’s been a while ago. Could call and take parts in to see what they’ll cost. D-G Custom Chrome | Auto Restoration | Cincinatti, OH

67/72 A-BODY PILLAR POST A pillar trim.

Automotive Retainers, Clips and Fasteners - ClipsAndFasteners.com I’ve purchased a lot of things thru here. Have to buy quantity’s some times but they have a lot of hard to find things.

I have ANPAC chrome. No claims, but agreed on value and it doesn’t have all the restrictions. As long as not daily work vehicle and stored in a locked facility. Under $300 a year. I know not what you asked but putting it out there.

I believe it goes between heater blower switch and resistor.

PM sent. Thank you.

I have them on mine. I used the studs. They’re necked down because the engine oil flows through those areas for the rocker lubrication. Now what I can’t answer is why the factory bolts won’t work but I’m guessing it has to do with the casting of the head.

I’ve got sealed power catalogs from 1988 1989. The TRW interchange in them does not show that number, nor does the piston to wall clearance chart list it.

Also be aware of the bushing in the tail shaft of the transmission. If it’s worn it can let the driveshaft yoke walk and leak. Don’t know how thorough the rebuild was. Make sure the selector shaft seals aren’t leaking. They’ll let fluid move and can be hard to diagnose.

Hopefully picture is clear enough to trace it.

Goes to the ignition switch connector and ties into the connector for the switch in the column for the key in buzzer. So when the drivers door is opened and the key is in it provides a ground for the buzzer which is part of the horn relay.

Get on their email list. I did that with my Demon and they email out the sales. Usually around holidays. Once you get the deal unsubscribe.

Off the top of my head is the throttle body butterfly closing all the way, next would just be a vacuum leak. Those are just guesses. Maybe clean the TB and see where it goes. Mileage may just be due to fuel blend changes and warmer temps. Never been under the hood of one.

Are these on this page what you’re looking for? Personally I don’t see shimming damper out as being a good idea but I’ve never dealt with that kind of issue myself. Crankshaft Pulleys-440 Source

Sounds to me like you have issues with grounds to the dash. Personally when I did my car I ran extra grounds to the dash frame and instrument cluster.

Goes to door jamb switch on drivers side. Door Jamb Switch 3 pin Mopar

If I remember correct I’m running Dynomax ultra flow 17233. Before I put tail pipes on, it would shake everything around. I’m running 3” with x pipe all the way out on my big block Demon. Fairly docile at idle, but when you squeeze the skinny pedal it opens up. I will say interior noise isn’t...

Mopar Restoration and Performance A-BODY DASH-RELATED, Tachometers These are reproductions.

Vacuum advance connected to carb? Even on timed port, throttle blades could be open enough to activate, or connected to manifold vacuum. Slipped balancer ring checked with piston stop and degree wheel?

The self check out businesses really like when you ask who to send the bill to for your time and doing the job you’re paying them for. I usually get the deer in the head lights look and the complimentary smile that they have no idea what I mean.

Sorry to take the post too far in the weeds on the splines. John do you have a manual for your car? Here’s a link to download. Service Manuals – MyMopar Browsing through it, it does appear that the hazard switch was not in the column on a 1970. But that’s not to say there wasn’t a mid year...

Hi Dana, yes there is a “key” on the wheel and shaft and the splines around the dark colored spline looks to me like they’re rough or damaged, like the keys weren’t aligned. If that’s the case a little work with a file should clean it up.

Looking at this photo was the master spline on the steering wheel lined up to the master spline on the shaft? The spline area I circled looks chewed up to me. It also looks like the nut only engaged about 6 threads. If the splines are boogered up the wheel could be hanging up and not sliding all...

Sounds like car may have been running off battery and pulled it down. Especially with it wanting to die. Now the issue is did the charging system have an issue that killed the battery. If you have a volt ohm meter check battery voltage after charging and then see what voltage does when trying to...

I believe these are what I used. They’re a bit longer than needed but trim to fit. Mopar A Body 67-72 & B Body 68-70 Door Glass Division Channel Guide Set 2932230 Here’s a how to Gallery: Pop-Out Quarter Window Restoration - Mopar Connection Magazine | A comprehensive daily resource for...

I can’t help on the safety lever either it is tiny I have read where people do exactly what you’re thinking about. I’ve got a .40 2.0 and the apex trigger set up is highly recommended on my part also.

I thought the same til I really started reading and comprehending what does what. I know the typical gets thrown out the window every now and then. But the larger air bleeds carry more fuel thru the emulsion stack, at least that’s what I’ve found on my end. And I am by no means an expert.

With a typical Holley, restricting the main air bleeds typically will delay the mains starting. It also doesn’t take big changes on the bleeds to make big differences. A .010” wire is a big jump and should shift the mains starting higher in rpm. I’ve spent a lot of time at racing fuel systems...

No spring. Just the one in master cylinder. I personally would move the brake light switch out of the way to see if it’s the issue.

Sounds like the piston in the master cylinder isn’t fully returning to expose compensating ports. Is there anything not allowing the pedal to return fully, brake light switch? When it happens try looking at piston on master cylinder from under dash to see if it’s traveling back to retainer...