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I saw that same episode, which is part of the reason I'm not going to feel bad about "massaging" them.

I pulled out the 383/727 combo out of an old race car I bought. I'll be transplanting the drivetrain, including a built 8 3/4 rearend into my '75 Duster.

I weighed everyone's advice and thought about the power I'd lose and decided to buy some B-Body headers and do the minimum necessary clearancing. Much as I'd like to buy some TTI's, it's just not going to happen. That being said, any specific brands or P/Ns to buy or avoid?

I was thinking about the B-body manifolds, based on the information I’ve seen in this forum. They seem to be the ones that will work with the least amount of modifications.

The race car I bought that had this combo in it actually has a set of fender well headers on it. I just don’t know that I want to cut up my fenderwells to make them fit. The HP manifold that I’m looking at buying are $400, which is about the cost of the set of summit or jeg’s generic headers...

The HP manifolds look like they would flow fairly well for a stock manifold. The manifolds I'm looking to purchase are priced about the same as a Summit or Jeg's B-Body header.

I'm gathering parts for my 383 swap into my '75 Duster and have a question regarding exhaust. I have an opportunity to buy some '70 B-Body HP exhaust manifolds and am wondering how much performance loss and I can expect over a set of headers. TTI headers are not in my budget and I don't like the...

That sucks. Were you planning on taking it apart to inspect before installing?

I'm going this same direction on my '75 Duster (383, 727 & 8 3/4) and will be relying heavily on the Big Block A body tech forum to get me through the swap. Motor currently has elephant ears, as it was in a '70 Duster drag car, but I'm thinking schumacher mounts to help with alternator alignment.

No worries, I bought it for the drivetrain, not the car.

Thank you very much! I'll have to take a deeper look this evening after work.

The VIN tag is missing. Any locations on the body where there might be another VIN tag or stamping?

I picked up an old '70 Duster race car this weekend for $2500. The intention is to pull out the motor/trans and rearend and swap into my '75 Duster (pictured). History on the car, the owner built this car in early 2000 with a .030 383 (Keith Black pistons, ported factory heads, custom ground...

Is your 383 Duster really going to be a "daily driver"? I'm sure the cam your looking at will run great and have strong low/mid range torque, considering your intake duration at .050 is 216. If I was building a 4x4 truck motor, this would be the cam I'd use. I'm possibly going to going the 383...

Interesting, thanks for posting this! I'm wondering if the 87-93 Mustang 8.8 will fit. I know it has 4-lug axles, but I'm thinking 5-lug aftermarket or ranger axles with an appropriate drum brake. I think I need to get a tape measurer and compare some different options.

For those of us who don't want to shorten an Explorer 8.8, is there any 8.8 rearend that is approximately the same size as my '75 A-Body 8.25"? I've tried to compare widths doing searches, but ford guys measure 8.8 wheel mounting surface (WMS) to WMS, while Mopar guys measure flange to flange...

You have a PM

I've only bought one car sight unseen, and it wasn't what it was advertised. The seller was happy to communicate until he got paid and then he fell off the earth. If you can get someone local to look at the car do it. If the other option is to fly in and look at the car, then do that. I drove...

Welcome back! I'm looking forward to the time when life's to-do list shrinks, glad your there!

As stated above, depends on your goals. Unless you plan on going on with a larger cam than stock and emphasizing out of the hole acelleration, I'd keep your existing gear. You can always find another 8 3/4 chunk and build it with 3.73-3.91 gears. That way if you want the highway gears back...

Here's some pics of the tires/rims separately and on the car. Price is firm, there already priced very reasonable. Thanks!

Yes Sir, Do it tonight when I get back to the house.

Selling a set of like new American Racing (AR-62) staggered rims with mounted BF Goodrich Radial T/As, lugs and center caps: 2 ea. AR-62 15x7" (15x4.5" Bolt Pattern) and 225/60R/15 Radial T/As 2 ea. AR-62 15x8" (15x4.5" Bolt Pattern) and 255/60R/15 Radial T/As Here's a link to pics: American...

Thanks for the link. I like the idea about an auxiliary fuse block!

I am installing an Autogauge 2 5/8"gauge pod (water temp, oil pressure and voltmeter) and tachometer in my '75 318 Duster as part of my "Day 2" look build. I've the mechanical part done, now starting on the electrical hookups. Does anyone have suggestions on what wires to splice into for the...

Just a suggestion, you might want to show some full length pics of the exterior of the car.

You'll be asking yourself later when you're pulling it back out, why didn't I go through it when it was out.

I had Summit Weld knockoffs (15X8) with 255/60/15 on my '76 Dart Sport, don't remember the backspacing. 15X10 is too wide for a 255 tire.

I didn't read through all four pages, so nobody roast me if this has already been asked. When you did your initial compression test, did you have the carburetor throttle in the fully open position? Compression readings are consistent, but way too low.

You've rotated the engine to different points, correct? I had this same issue before when priming a fresh 318, freaked out and called my machine shop. He told me to try rotating the engine, and low and behold oil started on the other head. Please try this before you yank the engine and tear it down.