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1 5/8” primaries 3” collectors Street headers

My bad. 1 5/8” primaries 3” collector

It’s literally in the picture I posted of the sticker that had came on the box.

I haven’t measured. I’ll try and get out there this afternooon

NOS Mopar Performance headers for ‘67-‘76 Abody. Just shelf wear. Never been installed. Comes with collectors, collector gaskets and bolts. Located in Burlington NC, but will be available at Rockingham Dragway on Nov 16th for the Mopar show. $400

Selling a good, used set of Hedmen W2 headers for ‘67-‘76 Abody. These are the regular headers, NOT the fenderwell headers. Available in Burlington NC, but will be selling at Rockingham Dragway on Nov 16th at the Mopar show. $400

New set of Hooker Super Comps for Early Abody (‘63-‘66), part #5208HKR. They’ve been coated in POR15 to prevent flash rusting. Comes with collectors, collector gaskets and bolts. Located in Burlington NC, and will be for sale at Rockingham Dragway in a few weeks at the Mopar show on Nov 16th...

Would you do $60 shipped to 27249?

I’ve always used Comp Cams and Comp lifters. I always use moly lube on assembly and use Gibbs Racing break in oil at break in. Then I always use high zinc oil, usually VR1, at every 3000mile oil change. Anybody that knows me knows I turn the mess out of all my engines and on a regular basis...

Here…

So long story short I picked up a 360 that was last run in a circle track car in 1996. The seller drove the car but knows nothing on engine specs. Not sure who the builder was. So far I’ve pulled one head and found a few things. The heads are “915” J heads, no major port work but does have...

Mark Worman in cartoon form…

So I picked up some 340 stuff over the weekend, wanted to know if anybody recognized either of these blocks.

Automatic trans?

The steel wheels are 15x5 with 185/65R15 up front and 15x7 with 255/60R15s out back. The American Racing Torq-Thrust Originals on the front are 15x5 with 165R15s. The rear wheel/tire combo to go with the TTOs are 15x8s, and not 100% on tire size, but am leaning towards 29” pie crust slicks.

The heads will definitely be an improvement. BUT, for half the price of Eddy heads, you could put more gear out back and make some suspension upgrades and gain more than the heads will get you. If you’re gonna go in the motor, put a better cam in it. I’m not sure if anybody asked, but what’s...

So my ‘64 Dart had a ‘71 360 with stock small valve ‘587 heads, H116CP pistons (9.2:1cr actual), a CompCams 268AH10 cam, Eddy LD340 intake, StreetDemon 750, exhaust manifolds, close ratio 4spd and a 3.55fd rear gear, and it ran a 13.50et. Your setup should run better than 13.8s off the bottle...

I’d pull the spray and work on tuning or driving, that combo should run mid to low 13s without the bottle and mid 12s with the 100shot.

Next in line

My tin grille with my buddy’s ‘70 R/T

And another thing that is now highly contested: The ‘86 Omni GLHS, did not stand for GLH- S’more. The “S” stood for Shelby. All the early paperwork and documentation listed it as a GLH-Shelby. The “s’more” thing was actually from a small article a journalist wrote about the ‘86 GLHS suggesting...

Not entirely correct. So ‘83.5-‘84 Shelby Chargers and ‘84 GLH were 4x100 with vented front discs and 200mm rear drums. ‘84 Daytona TurboZ had 4x100 vented front discs and 220mm rear drums. Starting in ‘85, with all GLH(turbo and non turbo), Shelby Chargers and Turbo Zs, we’re 5x100 vented discs...

My current GLH-T. Super70 with everything forged, upgraded,!ported etc.. around 300hp as is. This is my 5th GLH. Loads of fun!

Herb and his sons are still here in town. They have a “museum” that they open to the public randomly. Herbs younger son, Mike, is the one behind the museum, procuring all the cars and memorabilia, etc.. Herb and Herb Jr are around as well, and Herbs grandsons are heavy into cars and drag racing...

…my marriage…

I’ve got that book too. It’s magazine ads and brochure pages reprinted in black and white. The most interesting thing is the color chart, that is in black and white, lol! Cool book though!

I’ll take it depending on shipping, of course. Get me a quote to 27249 please?

If it’s been sitting a long time, I would about guarantee that it has valves stuck open. Very common on old flathead Mopars that are left to sit. Easiest way to fix that is to pull the head, spin the engine over, tap stuck valves down gently with a rubber hammer. A little Marvel down the valve...

An 11sec car often will feel like a 12sec with an automatic, and likewise an 11sec stick car will feel like it might run 10s. The violence of a stick shift always seems to make the car feel faster than it is.

…too much low end torque…. I wish that was a problem I had!