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I trimmed mine off with a cut off wheel. The outer and inner fenders are seam welded at the very outside edge where it turn under the car, so if you go to close you risk separating them. I got a little to close in one section but it hasn't caused any problems. I have a Eastwood roller and it...

I like the protouring style look. I in fact have a set of 18" rims for my dart if I feel like putting them on. I was going to step up to 20" outback with the 18" up front but haven't brought my self to drop the coin on the 20" With that said I personally think the viper rims are a tad too...

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FAST EFI here so. I'm sure you know my opinion. My **** runs tip top

71' swinger Offset shackle kit Fender lip trimmed slightly 15X8 Drag Stars 275/60r15 Nitto 555Rs They are as tight as you can possible go with out mini tubing and relocating the springs inside the frame.

Year one and Chip Foose both have large diameter version of the ralleys you can buy just not 5x4 https://www.yearone.com/Catalog/wheels/wheels/yearone-wheels/yearone-.-mopar-rallye-wheels http://www.mhtwheels.com/mht-luxury-alloy-wheel.cfm?id=3329

Positive offset moves the mounting flange out whatever mm the offset is. So 25mm moves the mounting flange out 1" roughly (25.4mm to 1"). In turn that adds roughly 1" to the backspace. Now you can overcome positive backspace with spacers to a point depending how far you what to push it on...

When they refer to the width of the rim they are referring to the mid section of the rim not including the channel edge that holds the tire bead lock. The channel is usually a 1/2" more to the rim each side. So a 8 " rim is really 9", 9" rim is really 10" and so on. Back space is measured...

I bought a fuel cell

We Americans use the same measurement but we refer it as offset. Any wheel you are interested in should have a supplied offset accompanied with a Backspace measurement. Most tend to only use or pay attention to the backspace number because it is easier for most to understand. Below I...

Sorry if I miss something I didn't bother to read through all 3 pages of responses. Mandrel bends is great. That is were I source all my tubing my turbo kits. They will be your best priced option on exhaust tubing. The shipping cost can hurt but its still better than anywhere else. Myself...

here ya go. A 6 point and 12 point picture

I searched around and could not find the mentioned thread or my old thread on ARP studs because I'm certain I had one. I remember going around and round with ARP because they had their kits all wrong. It took them several emails to get it straighten out and I don't know if they ever did fix it...

There is a thread here that resolves the issue. I came across it a while ago when I had the same question on my studs. I choose not to use a windage tray on my 408. I went with ARP 6 point studs. If I remember right I used a 12 point under the oil pump. On the stud under the oil pump it required...

Don't let the wheel selection throw you off. 15s out back 17's up front. but the car does lean forward. when I get it back out of storage in the spring I plan to lower the front a little more like 1/4". I have a little adjustment left on my torsion bars.

That is a bad graph to read, the way its scaled makes it harder. Are you intersecting points at 5250 rpms were hp should meet TQ? I'm sure the toque number is accurate and the HP is just throwing off the dyno because of the converter.

look great

Very nice. Good choice, great looking car. I debated on these when I was shopping for new rims. I settled on the regular Race Stars because I could not find any good pictures of those on a car at the time.

You famous now. http://www.carthrottle.com/post/njoSbC/

Those are direct bolt lugs meaning the mounting surface to the nut is machined flat. They are required for a direct bolt rims. I'm not aware if all welds are a direct bolt wheel. You need to have the correct type. Cronical through bolt lug----->...

Not welds but I do have 17x4.5" 1.75BS RaceStars with SSBC brakes. Tons of room

I personally use the rubber Felpro gaskets with the metal inserts ans crush sleeves. I don't use any thing else to help seal but I did switch to studs for fasteners rather than bolts. Much better setup and easier on the aluminum threads.

Good luck on the MSD. I went with FAST Ez efi a few years ago over the MSD when it first came out because MSD was a returnless fuel system which I didnt care for. Overall Im happy with the FAST system. Hasn't caused me any issues, just need to follow the instuction to a tee. No short cuts...

^^ yeppers I run my fan relay sensor in the top hole of your picture. I have a Derale sensor, their sensor is a real small thread like 1/4" then come with different fittings to adapt to fit different applications. Now my fan is just wired to its own relay and the Derale probe has a 12V...

Me personally 90 on the bottom and 100 on the top bolts (with oil). I also let the gasket compress overnight then come back the next morning loosen it all up and do it again one more time.

275/16-15 here. Took a good amount of work to get them in and it is tight. I might be switching to 4 link to get a little more room.

I fixed my leak too by install a fuel cell:happy3:

FOR SALE: A 1971 Dodge Dart Swinger. $16,000 Located in Omaha Nebraska Before I begin this is originally a slant 6 car, but has been converted to a small block car. This is no numbers matching car. No joy rides, serious buyers only. I've owned it for 12 years. Pasted down from my father...

71' Swinger 408ci, FAST Ez efi, airgap intake, Eddy heads, Comp XE285HL cam, TTI headers 2-1/2" Dynomax full exhaust system (h-pipe, catback) . Tips cut back a foot before the bumper so they arent visable at ride height. http://youtu.be/k5w13vVNnmE

here is my car at idle with the 285. idling at 900rpms because I had to reset my tune. Once the tune settled out I moved it to 750-800rpms. 71dart dwinger 408 stroker FAST ez efi: http://youtu.be/k5w13vVNnmE