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I pieced together a Vintage Air system for my Power Wagon. I used the largest gen 2 evap/heater box and fit the biggest condensor I could. Nice and cold in Texas heat! No one sells a kit for my truck, but it was cheaper than bying a system. I saved money on items like the condensor. Summit sells...

Another option. https://www.waytekwire.com/catalog/circuit-breakers/high-amp-circuit-breakers/eaton-s-bussmann-series-185070f-01-1-surface-mount

No problem! I've heard both bad and good about PIE. No telling what they sent you, but I would assume a SBC rocker.

If you had to raise them that high, something is out of whack. Could be the brand of rockers. That said, the stock rockers are pretty darn good.

Can you post some pics of how you have it set up? Also, which rockers are you running?

Find out what it cost to port the Speedmasters since you already have them. It might cost a lot less than a new set of Trickflows.

Here's an article from Hughes website about measuring the manifold gap.

Also be sure to verify the zero on your harmonic balancer. After that, check and verify base timing, total timing and be sure vacuum advance is working.

Very interesting results. Thank you for testing and posting, I know it's time consuming!

I'm kinda curious if the radius will improve exhuast flow. Thank you for what your doing!

Have you tested the exhuast side to see if that radius on the valve changed exhuast flow?

I like to help a Mopar brother out when I can!

I was spending my money on other stuff. I wish I could afford everything!

Heads up if anyone need them, I found a set of Doug's big block headers, coated for $300 at the Arlington TX Summit. They also had an Edelbrock Pro-Flo, don't remember if it was for a low deck or tall deck.

Here's the vacuum diagram from my 79 (not a LRT).

The sticker is still on the hood. I'll get a pic of it to post. It had EGR, air pump, dual evap canisters, OSAC valve. It had a Thermoquad and it's not Leanburn.

I bought an all original 79 W150 w/360 4bbl. It was a California truck and had an air pump. Single exhaust w/cat. Obviously not a LTE truck, but they were putting air pumps on some models. Long ago I had an 82 D150 w/a 318. It had the diverter valve system that Rumble mentioned.

It's nice when a good deal falls in your lap! :thumbsup:

https://www.smart8coil.com/ All this muti-coil talk reminded me of the Ishmael 8 coil stuff. I remember seeing adds for it in tge 80's.

Glad it's working for you now!

That sucks to hear, but now you know. Are there any numbers stamped on either end of that cam?

I have 60 and 10 cc syringes and a piece of plexiglass that is a little too thin.

I measured the chambers when I got them, they were 66 to 67 cc's. The diff probably has more to do with my backyard methods that actual differences.

I don't have a way to measure port volume, but they are advertised as 190 cc. I'll try to measure the throat size tomorrow (if I don't forget).

I attached the flow data for mine. I had originally planned them for a mild cammed, 408 stroker truck engine, but that plan has changed. Currently thinking about a new engine for my Duster. I have the heads and a hyd roller, thinking I would use parts I already have. I could build a 360 or a...

You cannot put the magnum rockers on the heads you linked. Magnum rockers are pedestal mount, those heads use shaft rockers. You can't use magnum intakes either, the bolt angles are different.

That's about what mine flowed. Have been thinking about putting them on a 360 with about 10.5 to 1 comp and a hyd roller cam, 234/238 .536/.540.

What specific problems did you have with the CNC Speedmaster heads? I have a set I haven't used yet. They did get a going over and flow test by a local shop. Everything looked good.

You said you were planning another engine for the future. Put this engine together as is with the pistons you have and stick in a smaller cam. Save the bigger cam for the next engine and you can build the compression and quench to match.

I haven't seen anyone mention this, but the driver side galley feeds from the number 1 main bearing. If you pull the cam thrust plate, there should be a core plug there. If the builder pushed it too deep, it will block oil flow from the main.