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Cool, I’ll check those out!!

I have 3 degrees of negative caster, want 6 degrees of positive caster. Hoping to get it to work with fully adjustable a-arms & taller ball joints should help even more.

No, I’m am not setting it up for negative caster that would be idiotic, I want 6 degrees of positive & need adjustable a-arms to achieve that which was the purpose of this post.

It is negative caster, I know how to correctly put offset bushings in, I did alignments for several years at a shop & understand suspension geometry. I’m not doing a pro touring lowered car, it’s not at all the ideal set-up, I’ve got fenderwell headers, short 24.75” tall tires & need it taller...

The factory upper a-arms are not adjustble, just the mounting bolt location is. I have -3 degrees of caster as my car is set-up with offset bushings and trying for the most caster. I am running the factory 4 piston disc set-up & do not want to get rid of that, may just have to ream out the...

What are the different options for fully adjustable upper A-arms that will fit a ‘67 ball joint?

1967 Plymouth Barracuda Formula S 383/Auto Fastback A true Survivor with day 2 modifications 383 Commando V8/727 car Matching VIN/Data Plate/Radiator Support Stamping/build sheet (partially remaining) ‘71 440 block 10.25:1 compression Edelbrock Performer heads - 83cc Forged pop-up pistons...

I have velocity stack style ac bases with large K&N air cleaners too for the track. Around town the small air cleaners don’t choke it out according to my A/F gauge.

My 383 TR Formula S big block car

No thanks.

More pics

1967 Plymouth Barracuda Formula S 383/Auto Fastback A true Survivor with day 2 modifications 383 Commando V8/727 car Matching VIN/Data Plate/Radiator Support Stamping/build sheet (partially remaining) Mechanically sound, drive anywhere ‘65 383 block 4 year since built, approx 20k miles...

I have been to multiple events & never had the issue come up at tech inspection. I did get good quality made in USA units & have seen these used on plenty of high speed, track driven handling cars with no issue. A quality part that’s been properly installed makes the difference on them.

About 6 years ago I put a set of NOS Hooker 1 7/8 fenderwell headers in my ‘67 383 Formula S car that I have driven roughly 17-20k miles so far. Tires - I’m running 155R15 Firestones on 3.5” Slot Mags w/1” bolt on adapters & I have no rubbing issues but I run it fairly high, it’s super close &...

‘67 C10, 350HO crate engine, TKO 600, 4.11 12 bolt, good mpgs, fun to drive & parts everywhere. I don’t feel bad about driving this classic C10 in the rain, I save the ‘67 Barracuda 383S for nice days.

Is that a 67 with 68 taillights?

I have mine sitting a little higher than stock height so I don’t have the ground clearance to flange issue or tire rubbing. I used a DEI starter heat shield under the master to protect from heat. I’ve got about 4 years/20,000 miles on this set-up so far & it’s worked well for my application.

I went thru all that mess & decided if I’m going to keep the car & maintain it, I’m not going thru all that trouble just for a starter because no telling when/where one will go out. My 67 383 Formula S has a vintage set of NOS Hooker 1 7/8” Fenderwell headers with an old 70’s white textured...

Finally got a ‘69 Camaro front spoiler mounted up on my ‘67 Formula S

Anyone know the correct diameter of the ‘67 4 piston dust cap? Looking to get chrome if I can find the correct diameter to be a nice press for.

Thanks for the info, I will measure & see what I have. The new aftermarket axles came with a car I bought, just in the in the trunk in a box.

I am upgrading my rear axles to some Yukon 5x4.5 units & need some drums to go on. I didn’t know if there were some ‘74 drums I could possibly bolt on or if I should just swap on a disc set-up. Anyone just swap some later 9” drums with the 4.5” BC.

This is the over the counter Direct Connection crossmember for putting a Big Block into an A Body DC P/N P4007935. $750 This is for the ‘67-‘76 A-bodies & allows you to use a spool style motor mount for installing big blocks. This is for: 1967, 1968, 1969 Barracuda 1967-1976 Dart 1970-1976...

As far as the PCV, I’m running this adjustable one & it does really good. Dual Flow Adjustable PCV Valve – M/E Wagner Performance Products

That’s one way to do it, your setup is the same ratio as 3.23 w/26” tires which is essentially what it had & that didn’t work for my XE274 cam coming out of the hole hard.

I did a little bit of notes/pictures on my build thread for the car this evening. 1967 Barracuda Formula S 383 daily driver build

I ended up putting the MSD controller box behind the drivers kick panel, made a little panel for the lights below the dash, mounted a toggle off to the left side below the dash to enable the “auto” feature, made a bracket out of aluminum strap to hold the speedo cable at the crossmember & had a...

After bolting up the main stuff, I went to put the shifter stabilizer backet on & it didn’t fit, it was kicking out & putting the shifter in a bind. The new tailhousing has a raised area the original didn’t so I had to grind away on the stabilizer bracket in order for it to bolt up flush.

Got the drive line measured, cut & back on(the place here in Tulsa is super quick & top notch). The pans look like they were made for the GearVendors, the tunnel flares out just right for it to pretty much clear everywhere except one of the raised bolted connections.

When switching over the parking prawl, a steel slopped piece held in with a spring clip, the new housing seems to be fresh out of a CNC, I had to go over it with a small file & emery cloth to knock the edges down to get it to go back in. I also had to run some emery cloth over the bearing bore...