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Don't you just love it when you research and hunt down parts and after you find it, buy it and install it, all the ads show up after the fact?

I never thought about a circuit breaker.

Yeah, I'm not much for dressing up either. My wife on the other hand always dresses for the occasion. My buddy put it this way. My wife is like a fine wine and I'm like a can of Pabst Blue Ribbon.

I hang out with a lot of car guys (and bike guys I might add). We do a lot of cruises and such.

The battery is on the passenger side of the trunk. I didn't use any relay. I may add a shut-off switch.

On my Dart resto, the battery is relocated in the trunk. I have the good thick gauge cable and will be buying a new hold down kit for a neater look. I am looking at Optima batteries. It looks like the yellow series is the better one. It's a 440 with 11.5 compression, electric fan and electronic...

Tin Cup is on to the front now. Filling in some holes, repairing dings and patching the holes from fenderwell headers.

So it looks like I can get the adaptor for the Dodge Diplomat MC. My next question is: my Dart came with factory manual drums all around. I did the manual KH front disc conversion using a factory disc brake proportioning valve. Do I still use the factory prop valve and MC push rod?

It looks like the Raybestos and the Dr Diff are the same except for price. Am I able to get just the 4 to 2 bolt adaptor and longer rod separately? The Raybestos is a lot cheaper and looks readily available at any parts store.

As we are getting closer to my full resto 69 Dart I would like to know what year Dakota master cylinder to use. It's manual disc/drum conversion. Being a 440 with aluminum finned valve covers the factory master cylinder just touches them. I want more clearance rather than grinding down a vintage...

Sounds good. I'll do it right now.

How much do you want for the drivers side?

Yes, that is the direction we are going. Something durable to protect while driving.

I'm going to have Tin Cup look at them tomorrow. He's doing the metal work.

Does anyone have a parts car with this section circled in red? Rotted out on both inner and outer right where the seam is. Thanks in advance.

Tin Cup finished the mini tubs. We'll get some primer on and seam sealer. He has to order a good spray-on undercoating for durability. I'll be cleaning up underneath before installing the axle and fuel tank along with all the hardware.

Over 12 hours cleaning up the engine bay. Almost done.

Just because of time I have trusted friends that redo them for me. My buddy just went through my 8 3/4 from my 69 Dart. I'm sure I am more than capable but I work full time and have properties to care for. I pulled it, gave it a good powerwash and dropped it off to him. I cleaned all the leafs...

I've been searching for a pair for my 69 Dart restoration. Where can I find a pair of these? Seems like all I find is for a Jeep. Are they all the same? It's the ones that mount under the rear frame arch.

While Tin Cup is doing the rear wheel wells, I've been cleaning the engine bay. After about a good 10 hours on it, I'm almost done. I had to order more abrasive wheels.

I got the k-frame back from blasting. It's a mess. The previous owner couldn't weld to save his life. I have a lot of cleaning up to do.

I don't think so. It's how the car was set up when I bought it 20+ years ago and it worked just fine. If it ain't broke don't fix it mentality.

On my 69 Dart resto. Since I am replacing the steering box, the old one is leaking and has play in it, should I go with Borgeson or Firm Feel? I know the Borgeson is smaller and lighter. Other than the column steering rod modification is there anything else I need to watch for? Is the header...

It is around 5 1/4" maybe 5 3/8". Smaller than others I've seen for sale. It's been on the 440 since I bought it over 20 years ago and been fine. I did straighten it out.

Pics

No one else?

In another thread I am posting the restoration of my 69 Dart GT 440/727. Tin Cup is taking care of all metal/body work. I'm doing the mechanical. I bought it about 20+ years ago so a lot of the parts are pretty much what it came with. The water pump pulley got damaged in the process of...

So it looks like I will remove the suspension and get the k-frame cleaned and blasted. Then on to the welding.

Should I also go with the LCA stiffening plates from PST?

How do you weld in gussets? I'm not familiar with this. Any pics? I will weld the factory stitch welds while it's out.