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Anybody know what color this mopar is? I am guessing Citron Gold Poly, but unsure. www.fi.pinterest.com/pin/6004565627911903571/

Thank you. Forged seems a bit excessive for my use, running highway gears and an automatic. I don't think I will ever exceed 4K RPM.

I am considering using the same 268AH cam with my 340, 904 and 3.23 gears. I have power steering and power disc brakes as well. I want this is a mildly hot street cruiser, that the wife will drive from time to time. Am I considering the wrong cam?

I thought increasing quench was when you raise the piston

Casting date is 6 - 18 -71. I truly thank everyone for the contribututions, as I feel we all learn something. Certainly myself.

OK, just measured comp height, and it's only 1.75". Yikes, that proves that it's 0.07" in bore as well. I calculate 8.23:1 with 0.047 gasket. Did they offer a low CR 340 in 71? So I need new pistons, any reason why I should shop someone other than KB? Block number is 2780930-340-7

The measurement was 0.07" and you could visually see it into the bore, clearly, where 0.007" would look almost flush. So yeah, I will have to tear this down to see exactly what I am working with. Virgin bore does not equate to original pistons, as I believe I have found out. I am using 906...

No offense taken, it's just that many people have info at their fingertips, and just tweak a value or two. I would have to research what the cc's in the piston are for stock, as well as typical deck height, which is never accurate. And so on. Yes, the calculations are easy peasy

CC's are 65, and the piston are in the bore by 0.07" Can anyone calculate my CR, assuming deck height is typical

Great, I was hoping there would be a general consensus that stock pistons are fine, I was just checking to see if I was missing out a bunch on modern new pistons, which I know nothing about. So, next question, I have 65cc heads. It will take me some research to see where I would be with...

416.....pffft, If I am to stroke it, I would make it a 426ci from Hughes. But I purchased the short for $1K, and I am trying to keep my price low.

The 71 340 block is in great condition, and the rotating assembly spins easy. My plan is to obviously strip it down and check everything carefully, but I am not a fan of those stock 10.5:1 heavy pistons. Assuming they are in good shape, should I not stuff it with a modern set of KB's and rings?

So far, checked fluid, which is good. Took it for another test drive. It started to flicker briefly at idle, then I accelerated and it went off. Did not happen again during that drive. Difficult to diagnose with light on, because it is so brief.

Freaking awesome!!!! Thanks everyone for so much useful information.

Yikes, here I thought it was probably related to a large cam and weak vacuum pressure. Got my work cut out for me.

The light comes on periodically. Brakes are mechanical, relying on vacuum. Hard to imagine a mechanical issue that comes and goes. But what do I know. Car is a 72 cuda with a 318 and 904A

Lost my manual decades ago, so can't just look it up.....but does anybody know what the round red brake light on your dash means? I am guessing engine vacuum, as it only seems to come on when you are about to stall or stalled. It came on yesterday after driving for first time this year, and...

Here is your best bet with a low budget 318, with a top end rebuild. I doubt ANYONE will disagree. 1. Assuming bottom end is tight, perhaps with a little smoke and decent cyl pressures of over 145-150, leave it alone 2. Thin head gaskets 3. Machine heads - Bowl port and valve job, and max...

CR helps torque down low, as does smaller ports. Wondering if that is what I need to make a small V8 feel a bit bigger.

Read them again, option 2 swaps the 318 heads back in, and option 3 reworks the short and adds the 318 heads. Basically, I am wondering if adding big chamber/port 360 heads in a small 318 is my biggest anchor. Especially if I am looking for power down low, where 318 cubes are the most...

So what is a better mod to add to an existing 72 318 stock short that was modded with a 340-ish cam upgrade and 360 heads (decked and 3 angle VJ), DP aluminum intake and 600 carb; 1) A reworked short with KB's to ~10:1 CR 2) Toss the 360 heads, rework the 318 heads with a bit of porting...

No crank, correct?

This guy has a great video (4 count) that shows complete steering shaft rebuilding (disassembly, upgrade and re-assembly) including site links for purchase.

I want what we all really want, an upgrade to a sloppy factory unit, that does not compromise on durability or safety. Duh ;)

Thanks for the info. That makes a lot of sense. I will just rebuild the column and live with the vehicle as is, a flex-flyer that can never be as good as a modern basic car, let alone a performance car.

Does this relate to angle?

I was hoping for a before and after experience to help me baseline a reference. I am worried that a u-joint will transfer vibrations and harshness to my hands.

As I plan on rebuilding my E-body steering coupler, I see there are U-joint replacements I can use instead of the factory flex coupling. Anybody have any experience with these rigid joints in your steering system? What should I expect? Is it too harsh, or is it something I should use to...

I am about to order a steering coupler rebuild kit, and I was wondering if anyone installed a u-joint instead of the factory flex coupler? What are the trade offs? Is it too harsh for mostly just cruising? Thanks

Oh, duh