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Have all I stripped off. I have the title. Will post more pics when I can.

Sta State cop pulled me 6 years ago and told me quit doin burn outs in his road. Was Very serious about it. Said he had his eye out for me. Drag car after that.

Interior is stripped. I have all the parts I took off to bring weight down.. I have the title. Will try to post more pics when I can.

Sub-frame connectors! You can jack it on a corner and doors open and close easy! Run 12.2 easy. Best - 11.995 TCI -2800 converter. Breakaway? I don’t know those abbreviations!

1973 Plymouth Duster. Owned for over 25 Years. Eastern Shore VA. 23407 Drag car. 360 Hyd Roller engine. Alum heads. 3.91. 8-3/4 Slicks. A999 auto. Footbrake racer. Always left in Drive. Runs 12.2. Best 11.995 Approx 3100lbs - number of parts less than 2 years old. - lots of details. No fancy...

Yup Then, Left in D. Shifted myself and squeezed a 12.05 Hooot!

Im going to meticulously go over it tomomorrow if I can get another hand. It’s just a 4cycle engine, right? How hard can it be? - but, kickin my *** - probably wind up something stupid.

Some plugs came out black, a couple wet, and a couple brown. But it had been running like crap for a while. When it was running good, they were almost perfect. Tomorrow. Compression check. Now, #1 intake valve begins to open about 10* before tdc. But this is a 1 man operation and i...

Autolite 65 Came out of 4 or 6.

Basically stk 360. Mild 260/.440” cam. Made up of all diff parts. And I have changed a lot of stuff around trying to fix this, - so I guess I probably introduced new problems. This distributor. A reman. Points open before rotor meet the post. About 1/4” before getting to it. & I think...

Because when the spark is thrown, it would be nice if the rotor was under the post of the wire to the cylinder that needs to be fired. Small block mopar, - single points distributor. Ok How do I close this thread?

3 diff coils. Nice fat 1/2”” spark Now working my way from coil wire towards plugs. Replace ‘em all ! But the phasing thing is buggin me.

Funny 7 pages of talk about Tony. This drives u-bloob hits. - Let it go, and see what happens. * “Next time on UTG” - Tony pulls the engine again! Wears out fasteners and re-thinks strategy. He gets hits and sponsors as long as the soap opera plays and people tune in.

I was thinkin along the same lines. Wires are on right. I had/have wiring problems with a rotten harness, but worked out run1&run2. Ballast good, Coil power good, points & condenser good. Rotor falls short (1/4”) of #1 post at tdc1. Imagine would pull further away with ignition advance...

Starts, Runs, runs badly, won’t take pedal. Bangs out the exhaust. Im down to changing the plugs and maybe cap and wires. It’s cheap enough. Im tracking this problem down. Found this on one of the plugs I pulled out. What causes this?

Sounds like the time I found a rag in my gas tank. Duh! I don’t know how it got there. But same symptom.

* New Transmission. Flex Plate / drive Line angles. ? Balanced flex plate/ Tq converter? Hey, I can’t see it from my house. Good luck

My 10year ago 318 in my duster had Hughes 214/216 regrind, 302 heads, 600 eddy, headers, & 3.55s ran 14.2 and almost 17 mpg driving 180 miles back from the track. Will you be using an AFR gauge for carb tuning? You can cruise pretty lean w th right metering rods in it.

I bought a “new” rebuilt distributor a year ago. Points block wore down in 500 miles. I don’t trust the replacement points with the white/clear rubbing blocks. Look like a plastic that would melt at temperature. Go to ebay and buy some NOS Mopar or Echlin brand.

He made it “HIS” So nobody else would want it. Did it his way.

I’ve seen that. But I’m an Edelbrock guy. My concern was that the booster is larger and may cut down the CFM. I’ve heard that Edelbrocks don’t flow the true advertised CFM anyway And disappointed the new manual does not cover the tuning aspect like the older ones do.

Bought one. was looking for the 1812 - Thunder Series. My brother’s 800 thunder took .4 seconds off my et over the 750 AFB I had on it. But, Seems they are no longer making them. The book that comes with it is in English and Spanish. I thought they sent me the wrong book, but I realized I had...

UPDATE - finally got back to the track. ADDED - Edelbrock 800 AVS Cut 4”” off collectors Removed 70lbs of weight. No fan, electric water pump. 12.21@114 mph Almost a half a second faster. It was a different ride. And Yes, With the small Thumpr cam.

In BLOXOM. Nope. Not much around here.

Had this issue, and what I found. Run puts 12v to the ballast and drops V to the coil to about 7-8 volts. Start bypasses the ballast and puts full voltage to the coil to help starting when the voltage is being pulled down by the high current draw of the starter. * the key is - “Run” drops out...

Do you feel valve de-shrouding in the combustion chamber would help?

Damn, think that's what I said. Glad you found it. It's nice to have springs that do not allow advance until above, say 1000 rpm. That way, everything is static at idle. mixtures and speed can be set without timing changes.

I agree w this guy. He helped me w something been troubling me for a while. - throw another Thanks. Stuff you are dealing with is old and no telling how many people had their hands in it. Set total timing. - to something comfortable. * 32 before? Check idle timing. If its less than 5* - you...

Throw this in. When warmed up, idle is higher. Because the mech advance springs are soft or too long and distributor is already in the curve. So advances at low rpms. And it may also be aggravated by dirty, hanging pivotal movement. & May not pull back. Seen it, been there. - but din’t...