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Ok let me know on it.

Where in texas are you Located? Any underhood pics? I am actually looking right now.

This will be Dave's last season doing the chassis and suspension seminars. If you haven't gone this will be the last chance. Great information from a great guy!

There is going to be a lot of fiberglass and lexan in your future. I would also look at lightening the front K member a bit and aluminum heads. That is where the biggest part of weight savings are going to come from. I (on a car I used to have) cut out all the excess metal below the 1/4 window...

How crazy do you want to get? You could turn it into a 2100 lb car if you really want to.

I had a 73 duster that was a 360 with 904 and 8 3/4 with street tires, one RCI front seat no p/s seat and it did have the rear seat in the car all steel car and with me in it it weighed 3030 if that helps.

Believe it or not it really didn't seem that bad from where I was. Kinda all went in slow motion. I used to be stationed at Schofield out there. Thanks for serving.:prayer: You from out here?

Hey when you are a hired gun and don't have to pay for any of it you don't grip too much about whats in it!:D

If it is strictly a race car that you trailer to the track then no. But like was said it really wouldn't hurt if you use a car that does have a title and you photo progress from the begining just for insurance sakes.

It should be a 10 ga. Remember that you can not have too big of a wire. You can have too small of one.

Yeah it is. I talked to a guy that has been running the Nostalgia jr fuel cars for years and he told me its not a matter of want with these things you have to run them. So I will be building a set over the winter.

Here is my opinion. I literally grew up in racing. 2 days old sitting in the tower of the old Houston track. If you do not want to buy a car from someone that is already done and you want to build one look at it like this: 1. Build more car than you "think" you will ever run. 2. Even if you...

I am going to do a couple of things. I am going to build a weight bar that we can add or remove weight (should be all I have to do). Going to wire in a manual over ride for the electric shifter, and also set it up to where I can pull timing out when I release the trans brake. I will only pull...

It actually has gone straight the other 10 passes or so we have on it. That was just a freak of nature kinda deal. The second pass it left straight and just kept going up and up til I lifted. We have started adding more power and that tends to bring out the little kinks that weren't there before.

Little nostalgia dragster excitement - YouTube We only made the two passes. But I was wide awake after words!

Even with an actual dry sump type of system you many times will still benefit from having a vaccum pump on the engine. A dry sump will pull a vacuum in the crank case but many of the times it may only pull up to about 5" of vacuum. But you also have to ensure that you have the engine sealed up...

This is the only pic I have right now. I know we are going to run it again on the 27th and I will also try to get some video of a pass or two then as well.

Well after hiding for the last couple of years and finally finding my way out of the deep dark cave I had found myself in I am finally in the light and I am back! Just came back to Painless after a few years away and away from here. Sorry I wasn't around and it feels good to be back at Painless...

Dave Morgan has been touring the country, giving evening-time seminars and it’s apparent that the evening timeframe is not popular. In an effort to help drag racers during the racing season, Dave has developed new lesson plans and schedules. It all begins in Texas. Teach & Tune...

If you want to end up using Painless we have a dealer there in Tempe. Arizona TPI phone number (480)921-2500.

In the time vs. money side you would be better off buying a universal type harness like this one from painless http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcatalog/Keywordsearch.php?partsearch=10127 and buying the terminals through either Del city or through your local parts house and repinning your...

That is correct. The Napa part number for the ignition switch is a KS6611 if that helps you any.

So your saying the ignition module was pulling your cranking voltage down?

That may be a partial issue but that is in no way why he is only getting 3 or 4 volts to the coil. I would also check to make sure that you are getting 12v. to the coil while you are cranking it. This would be coming from the brown wire going to the coil side of the ballast resistor. It is also...

You have a bad ballast resistor! The standard part number for the ballast you should use is a RU-11. Carquest sells standard. If not Go to Napa and get their Echlin version. Don't get the SB version (cheaper line) and what ever you do do NOT buy it at Autozone!

Also check to see what kind of voltage you are getting to the blue wire that goes to the ballast resistor and to the voltage regulator for the alternator. They should all be 12 v. with the key on. If not then we need to look at the bulk head connector and or the ignition switch.

As was asked before. How many volts. are going to the coil. While I would love to see you use some of our products (Painless) but it may not be the answer to the problem. I would first start by checking the resistance across the ballast resistor and let us know what you come up with. You should...

Nice! Looks like the car worked pretty good for a first time out.

Jim here is the other info I was telling you I would get for you. Jim here are some specs for you 318 (5.2)1967-2002 3.91 stroke Main journal 2.50 360 (5.9)1971-2002 3.58 stroke Main journal 2.81 All rod journals were 2.125