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fit a 2 door hardtop 70 duster? If so I'm your hucklerry.

Good idea. I might split that threaded piece now and use that to reconnect.

70 Duster, switched to 10" drums. Parking brake is now pulling too tightly mostly on the driver's side. Unfortunately the nut on the adjuster is rust welded on. Any tricks I could do to get it at least a few hairs looser without replacing the whole front line? If I were to replace the front...

Does the headlight switch need to be grounded to the instrument cluster body normally? I'm working with a modified cluster and electronic gauge board, and the metal parts of the body are removed. I noticed issues with the dome light. I assume my issue is I need to run a ground now from that...

Yeah I checked most things over and the upper ball joint is definitely real loose, probably the lower bushings and joint too. Toe seems ok. I think I just noticed it more recently but I don't drive the car very much. Looks like I'll just start with the upper CA and go on from there. Thanks everyone.

Probably a silly question but the driver's side wheel developed a bunch of negative camber, and since I've adjusted it all the way out and it's still at like 84 degrees, I assume something else is affecting this. Would it most likely be the upper control arm ball joint? Or something else? It's...

Awesome thanks!

I currently have a rear drum setup with the 10x1.75" brakes. I'm swapping in the b-body 10x2.5" drum and accompanying parts. Will anything carry over? Just wondering because all of the brake hardware is fairly new. I'm especially wondering about the adjuster cross bar. I'm not asking about...

I got them from drdiff, but I don't remember exactly what specs or don't have the order form from it since I think I did it all as a guest user. It was a few years ago also, otherwise I'd ask him. They were basically big bolt pattern upgrade axles. I certainly don't want to blame him or any...

Yeah, so open a new thread, and don't divert this thread, which was about what would cause this to happen to 'these' bearings.

it's really not at all helpful to turn a thread like this into a tapered vs green bearing debate. there's nothing about this situation that would point a finger at the cause being the fact that the bearings were green bearings. hell, if i had used tapered bearings, it may have not even seated...

Thanks for all the thoughts on this. I am going to measure the housing width, axle lengths, etc. before any more speculation. If everything appears to be correct, then I'll have to just assume there was a manufacturing or bearing install issue.

I honestly don't remember if they slipped right in.

The bearings are not 1st Gen, they are the newer ones. You can see the snap ring there if you look, against the backing plate. If my housing is a little out of spec, this style of bearing should actually help since it can move around a little.

Alot to think about. They were pressed on by whoever presses on bearings for Dutchman Axles. They are the newest version of the green bearings, not the version that requires the button be removed or that has the crimped on flange. It is possible they are somehow not exactly the right length...

I uploaded the pics instead of using my online gallery. Hopefully you can see them now

I don't see anything wrong with the housing from this. The bearing was still working and holding together, although once I took the axle out I could pick it apart.

No, I've barely driven it at all. To the gas station a few times. Probably only 20 miles or so. These are not stock, they are prebuilt axles from dutchman axles. I didn't notice any obvious signs of an issue before I put the axles in but of course something could have been waiting to break.

I installed these dutchman axles a few years ago, and they have very few miles on them. I pulled them out today to replace the pumpkin, and this is what I find. What in the world would cause this? This is just the one axle. Full size pictures...

what are these from/for? Looking for a set of the short ones for a 70 duster

standard

Looking for a dash cluster insert for my 70 Duster. I would prefer an ABS type with no holes cut out, but let me know what you have. Standard not rallye

Thanks mang. Done and done.

All of the parts store wheel cylinders seem to come with the janky 6.5mm head bleeder screws that are too small and break off the next time you go to actually bleed them. Nevermind trying to find a 6.5mm wrench. Does anyone still make a USA made part or does anyone know of a brand that at least...

I have a 2000 dodge ram that uses a saginaw style power steering pump. Off topic I know but I'm sure some of you have dealt with the o-ring style fittings. The main pressure fitting needs an o-ring replaced. The o-ring on the fitting not the one on the hose end. Anyone know where I can get one...

You're right, but that's why I bought a product described as New Old Stock. It shouldn't have been a repop. Wishful thinking I guess. If this one from ebay works it will be a treat for sure.

Well, I ordered 4051004 from classiccarautoparts, CHRYSTLER-DODGE-PLYMOUTH GAS TANK SENDING UNITS >>> Classic Car Auto Parts part # N-CR11, described as GAS TANK SENDING UNIT 1963-1976 Barracuda, Dart, Dart Sport, Demon, Duster, Scamp, Swinger, Valiant. Mopar New Old Stock, part no. 4051004...

it's an a833od if that matters. from around '76.

70 duster, slant six. also need a bellhousing and any other hard to find parts

Looking to do a swap with an a833, and have the transmission. Just need everything else. The pedal assembly is the main thing I am looking for.