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I have a complete fill neck out of a Saturn 4 door. It has a check ball/seat insert near the bottom of it and I've given some thought to incorporating it into the existing fill neck just to see if it made a difference in filling. I'm sure it would make a difference in cornering.

A consensus on an internet forum? Is that even possible? My MO with relays is that the high current wire should be as short as is reasonably possible. That places the relay in the nearest semi-straight line between the battery and the load. Where it is in that wire doesn't matter to the...

I'm not so sure. The idea of the fill nozzles we have here is to capture the air displaced by filling the tank. I'll grant that the air has to get out for the fuel to go in, BUT the car's evap system isn't designed to handle the volumetric exchange rate of filling the tank.

It is now clear to me that my input isn't welcome here. Sorry to have intruded into your private club. It won't happen again.

MISF (called that to protect him) drilled his street car rotors in about 1988. They cracked from the holes, rapidly. He drives all of his vehicles pretty hard. Told me that he felt no gain and I know that it took a long time to do. He hasn't done it since. I'm sure that he did everything wrong...

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Looks to me like supply is at the rear of the fuel manifold, regulator obviously at the front, with return out the bottom of the regulator. Could be wrong, but I *think* that I see a hose with a 90° hose end on it coming into the rear of the manifold.

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I use bbq paint. First coat is very light, barely see any color. Second coat is *just* heavy enough for complete coverage. I get a year to several of years out of it depending on where on the system. Head-pipes go away first.

I don't see low resistance being worth anything. Low Impedance OTOH might be........ AFAIC looking at what fuel car engines use only applies if you're running a fuel car engine. Looking at what endurance racing engines use would be more applicable, but even those may be more than is needed on a...

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Priced out that oval stuff lately? Whoooeeeeee.......!!!!

Edited previous post for weld elbow source.

Occasionally bits & pieces from Summit (the SST bend that became the Valiant's exhaust tip for example), earlier systems were sourced from SPD Exhaust, last set of bends & Marmon joints came from Columbia River Mandrel Bends. There's another vendor, whose name is currently escaping me, that I...

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Not any more you don't. I don't work for them. Yes, saying holes are evil is simplistic, but it also very true. That doesn't mean that they don't have their uses. Would be pretty hard to bolt things together without them. We engineers are frequently told to add a useless or nearly useless...

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It is accurate as of when I quit working in R&D Engineering at wilwood. Holes are stress risers no matter where they are. Their compromising the cooling vanes just makes a bad situation worse. Turning of rotors is a hoax. You need only scuff them enough to create a surface for the new...

Holes are evil, rotors crack at the holes. Anything will crack at a hole, but the thermal growth of a rotor puts huge internal stresses in it and the holes are major stress risers. An engineer designed those rotors, sure, but two things happened after that. Marketing said that the market wants...

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No counting marks on the drive-shaft while also turning the tire and keeping track of how far you've turned it too. Was a suggestion of a shop owning friend of mine and I've it easier and more consistently accurate way to do this.

No idea who this guys is, but clearly buying parts from him is not a good idea. Noted.

Forget the marks and counting while turning stuff. Use a long piece of masking tape to tape some string to the drive-shaft. Place the tape parallel to the length of the shaft with one end of the string under the end closest to the trans and the other end of the string laying on the ground. With...