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Excellent. You know what they say about universal fit stuff...doesn't fit anything.

Which headers are they?

Give them the old percussive maintenance.

The front master cylinder (rear brakes) port should be 9/16-18 threaded and the rear port (front brakes) should be 1/2-20 threaded. Obviously you need to test that out before you go jamming stuff in there, but the tube nuts are available in 3/16" line size with the correct thread. edit: Yes...

I used to have these on my Duster and they will get you there, but they 100% hit the cross member.

Yep. 3/8" hex tube nuts are bad enough as they get old. Even using flare nut wrenches, mine rounded off and I ended up cutting the line for new ones.

Who says that it has "moved on without me?" Is nobody allowed to just state a dislike with the way things are? I pretty clearly stated that I prefer metric stuff, I just don't understand why one would make parts with two different standards when the only use of those parts is on a vehicle that...

I had the same issue, no matter how many "correct" o-rings I tried. I finally went with the race locking dipstick like this one: https://www.jegs.com/i/ATI/085/726490/10002/-1 Instead of the single o-ring, it has a large rubber boot that makes a more positive seal.

Is anyone else sick and tired of having metric hardware put into the brake parts that are available? I can only find wheel cylinders with 7mm (headed and threaded) bleeder screws. Others that I find online generally don't list what the thread is. I just got stainless front hoses from Dr. Diff...

Good stuff, guess I have a few videos to watch.

Just weighed my assembled X head minus rockers. 46.6 pounds. Now I just need to order the aluminum heads and hide them from my wife.

Wow. I knew the aluminum heads cut a bunch, but that's crazy. I have a set of complete X heads sitting here, might just have to weigh them to compare. Thanks!

Did you actually weigh the heads vs. the iron heads to get the 50 pound number or is that an educated guesstimate?

The PH3614 and its cross references are the filter that the Dakota V6s came with and they fit right on there. Same thread and gasket size, but the can is significantly smaller.

Sounds good. Is that a situation for percussive maintenance?

OP Delivers. Shots of all linkages and the bottom.

Alright, so I watched the videos. They were helpful to refresh me on the various circuits. I loved the part where the record had to be flipped. My how times have changed as far as media. As for the secondaries, here's a pic. You can see how, even with the curb idle adjuster pulled completely...

Vacuum in idle in gear with the idle at 800-900 rpm is about 9". If I increase idle speed to 1200, I can get up to about 12" of vacuum, but I don't like having it idle that high. Initial timing is 16 degrees. When I turned initial timing to about 22 degrees, is when it idled at 1200 and also...

Thanks. To clarify a few more items: The Speed Demon has a curb idle screw that is adjustable with the carb on the motor, it doesn't have the screw on the bottom of the base plate. This one is pre-Idle-Eze, so it doesn't have the screw at the base of the air cleaner stud. TBH, I don't intend...

I have a 650 Speed Demon. It used to be the primary carburetor for my car, and after getting tired of screwing with it, I changed it out. Since I've been getting some quarantine projects done I decided I'd try and get this thing reset to factory and see if I can at least make it a...

Look for an Allied Van Company or other similar moving company near you, many times they will have scales and charge you a few dollars to use it. Otherwise, head to a truck stop with CAT Scales (catscale.com for locations), or go to your local track that does tech, as they should have scales.

Thanks, but I'll just order the kit that Plymouth 65 pointed to, Amazon can have it to me on Wednesday. So I guess I'll just use the deeper cup and send it. :)

Thanks, do you happen to have the part number? Summit's website really isn't optimized for finding the set. edit: of course...found it right after asking. Is this the kit? Dura-Bond Engine Hardware Finishing Kits FKP-1

I have the cup washer and it's on there. I just don't want to put the eccentric back on. The ultimate question is does the 1/8" or so thickness of the eccentric matter? The car is a race car, it goes everywhere on a trailer. I'm over mechanical pumps. The plumbing is now set up for the...

Quick, stupid question from someone new to an electric fuel pump. I have the timing cover off my 340 to replace the gaskets, and I just put an electric fuel pump on the car, eliminating the mechanical pump. At this point, I no longer need the fuel pump eccentric and would like to remove it. I...

Sounds good guys! I doubt the 1/4" will make a whole lot of difference either way. This helps quite a bit.

Long story short, while putting the flanged bearing in the column and persuading the steering shaft through said bearing, I broke the shear pins, so the shaft collapsed. I need to know what the correct OAL is for a power steering shaft for a 73 Duster. I saw a measurement of 36 3/8" somewhere...

Check out Tekton. Great pricing, they stand behind their product, and are starting to produce more and more stuff in the USA. Their torque wrenches are made in Taiwan. I have the 3/8" drive 10-80 lb-ft and 1/2" drive 25-250 lb-ft versions and love them.

So what I was planning on was grabbing a piece of 3/4" angle iron and welding it to the bottom of the pedal mount bracket to give it the amount of swing room it needs. I had wedged a 3/4" thick piece of wood behind it and it worked correctly. The angle iron at the bottom would give it a stable...

Here you go!