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Not sure what ;you are asking its a 1970 plymouth duster 340 which doesn't want to charge

It seems to only charge when the motor is cold or when you first drive it after awhile it stops charging

I replaced both the alternator and the VR ground the coating off the VR and the fire wall to make a good connection for the ground. I worked for a short while and then quit charging.

I have replaced the alternator and voltage regulator ground the firewall and back of the voltage regulator in seems to charge until it gets warm then stops runs just at 12 volts. Even with the electric fan running doesn't seem to charge

My 1970 Duster with 727 trans doesn't want to lock into park or start in park will start in neutral but won't start in park and won't lock up in park so that it doesn't want to roll.

So I ended up sending the original master cylinder and booster to Power Brake Booster in Washington to have them go thru them the replacement set up doesn't work right. So will see what happens with the original repaired and reinstalled thank you for all the advice

So who can I order the pushrod from that may be the issue I lubricated the linkage at the brake peddle and now it returns so that the brake lights go off.. But still doesn't stop like it should

So it was a power brake car we did bench bleed to new master cylinder it came with the new vacuum booster. We bled all the brake lines and adjusted the rear brake pads disc front drum rear it will stop if you are going slow but takes at least 60 ft to stop at 35 mph. The car was stopping ok last...

brake peddle is very low and doesn't return so the brake lights stay on unless you pull the peddle up by hand

brake lines and hoses were all replaced when the brakes were put on maybe 5000 miles

so disc brakes front drum in rear both are in good shape and working then it got to where you really had to stand on the peddle to stop.

we had brakes but they got to where you really had to stand on them to stop we replaced both the master cylinder and the vacuum booster that came together in a set is it possible that the linkage from inside off the peddle doest match the brake peddle doesn't want to return so the brake lights...

Have replaced the master cylinder and the vacuum booster bled the lines and still no brakes could it be something in the brake pedal linkage? Need help[

Have a 1970 Plymouth duster and the vacuum brake booster has gone out is there any place in Idaho that rebuilds them

You are right its the choke pullout if I disconnect the vacuum line to the chock it works fine but the chock is new so not sure what happened

No I replaced the gasket between the manifold and the carb with a phenolic one which is slightly thicker so I must have messed something up. If I disconnect the vacuum hose from the chock it all works fine so not sure what I did. With the hose connected it holds it closed even when warm.

Thank for all the advice I will give it a try and see if that helps

rebuilt 340 727 trans it was running fine then suddenly when you stomp on it it just goes flat. How do I adjust the pump shot my knowledge is more on engine repair not carburetors

Not sure how to tighten the air door any help would be appreciated

My 340 Thermo quad seems to just go flat when you stomp on it, is that fuel or timing. runs fine until you really put the peddle to the metal.

My 340 Dusters speedometer reads 10 miles faster than the actual speed to I need a gear with more teeth or less. Its a 727 trans.

Not sure how to accomplish that I thought that was what I was doing

Here are the views from both sides

It does but I don't think it stays closed long enough is there an adjustment

My 340 starts immediately once running but is hard to start when cold, is there a choke that can be fitted or is there any tricks I can try.

Thank you will try that today

I don't have the wire connected what does it conect to just any hot lead or something specific