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Water methanol injection will help eliminate detonation & it will be a lot cheaper as well as more practcal for street use. You can get vacumm controllers for the WM injection.

x2.

Actually it probably would create a negative pressure to pull hot air out & pull cool air in @ the bottom.. More effeciant than trying to force cool air down through the engine bay.

That's the way I would do it.

I ended up finding a complete drum to drum '67 Belvedere axle W/the pumpkin as well as a 68 housing W/axles bearings, adjusters & backing plates as well as 2 NIB 10" "B" body drums for $260 total in Toledo, OH. The guy works for a company that uses motorfreight shipping so shipping will be...

Running gas on a street driven engine, polishing the intake port can be counter-productive. A slightly rough surface creates a boundery layer of turbulance & prevents gas from adhering/pooling to the port surfaces. Polishing the exhaust ports does have benefits.

I hope I can get my '65 200 looking that good. It has the same interior. Seats are good, carpeting is good but stained, the headliner is fair but the door panels are toast.

I've found that when you reach a certain level, for every $1 you spend to make more HP, you have to spend $2 to keep it from coming apart. I think that since I want to spray N2O into a 13:1 CR chamber, I'm way beyond that point.

I talkd to the people @ Clark this afternoon & they advised me that for nitrous I needed "O" rings W/recesses on both the head & block. Looks like another expense to keep this \6 monster alive..

You are talking about a metal "O" ring right?

Oh yeah! DUH! :banghead: Anybody have one? lol

Would solid copper gaskets be better than OEM or FelPro if the block/head wasn't "O" ringed? I know they worked well on British motorcycle engines.

If you look at Motor's repair manuals that span the time period when the automakers went from "gross HP" (a bare engine sans accessories on the dyno) to "net HP' ( the bare engine as it was installed in the car W/all the accessories, exhaust, etc on the dyno) you will notice something...

I'm confused. What would "that" mean, & why would I want a "used" gasket as opposed to a new one?

Well I plan to sneak up on the nitrous so if I would blow a gasket it probably wouldn't be a catastrophic failure since both the block & head are cast iron. My labor is free so the difference in cost would just be a gasket set. Is there a source for copper gaskets for the \6?

They list no head gaskets for the \6 in their catalogue.

Either would be perfect, but unless the .021" gaskets are easy to get I would opt for the more readily available FelPro, IF the FelPros would hold up to 13:1 CR & nitrous.

Here's my 4 year old grandaughter Kennedi W/Sam.

I need a big bore (3.505") head gasket to use as a guide to counterbore the combustion chambers for piston clearance. So far the only source I can find are from Aussiespeed & they are $90 a pop! & that doesn't include shipping!

Yeah but I'm planning on running N/A 12.8s @ 6500 & then throwing a 200 shot @ it to see how close I can get to 10s on the juice. I think I'ma gunna need some good rods. 7.005" 198 rods are a must to get close enough to the head deck for quench using off the shelf pistons. Guys seem to be...

OK, I scored a complete drum to drum rear axle including the pumpkin from a '67 Belvedere as well as a '68 housing & axles. My hunt is over unless someone has a SG pumpkin W/4.56 or 4.88 gears.

Hey guys, since I no longer own my Power Wagon #896, I had my username changed to a more "A" Body appropriate moiker. In lieu of my plans for my '65 Valiant, I changed my username to VIOLENT\6

My '06 Daytona is the "Mango Express". I have a vanity plate MNGOXPRS. I had a waitress in Greenville, PA hit on the 1st try. She asked, Is that your Charger out back"? "The Mango Express" she said after I replied "yes". Nobody else has ever been able to cypher it. I'm thinking...

I'm not over weight, I'm under tall.

The rod didn't fail, the piston siezed. My thoughts exactly.

If 450 HP is the threhold then W/300ish N/A HP & a 200 HP shot of giggle gas would be on the threshold or a bit above it.

They make 'em for both forged & cast cranks. 2nd item down. I've thought about running the lighter cast crank but I wonder how it would hold up to a 200 HP shot on N2O.

Yeah & @ 650 grams they're quite a bit lighter than the OEM 198 rods.

That's why I'm going W/the Molnar rods. By the time one works over stock 198 rods the cost difference would be minimal. $456.04 shipped at connecting rods .net. http://www.connectingrods.net/Chrysler-Dodge-Mopar-Connecting-Rods-Slant-Six-Rods_625_127_2.sub

So does he have the \6 set-up available as a "kit" too? I ask because I might be having my heads done elswhere but would like to use this set-up. The way I read your previous post, I can measure the hieght of the vlave stem in relation to the rocker shaft & he will know what is needed...