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So this is where things really do get interesting, here is why. There were no bent pushrods, no wiped lobes. Because of the design of the retaining clip it was "captured" around the pushrod, so neither it nor the lifter cup itself ever escaped into the motor. This was a great outcome, no damage...

Hmm...interesting take on the situation, because your message certainly reads like I basically haven't followed any of the proper engine assembly processes...which happens NOT to be the case here. Springs were matched up to the cam. They were checked, valve close & open pressures were verified...

Is this what your lifter looks like? These are the SpeedPro Anti Pump-up lifters...well, originally this is what my machinist picked for me and what I used in my 360 motor. I (as per the mfg instructions) had set them up for 0" (zero) preload...they worked great, but eventually I found out...

Cool stuff...very similar to what I crafted and that was based on a mag article...not sure which Mopar mag though. Here is what mine turned out like:

Reading the instruction sheet (attached for reference, sorry, not the best quality though) that came with my W2 econo heads I find the following: "...It uses a rocker shaft that has the attaching holes on-center. The T/A shaft P3577086 is recommended..." So I am guessing we are talking...

What are you talking about??? Seriously, the OP asked a simple question: "..for an iron headed small block at about 9.5:1 compression...what is the least amount of duration you can get away with before you have detonation issues..." So my response, as clearly stated, gave him feedback on what...

I am (almost)...Hughes HE3844AL hudraulic flat tappet...238/244 @ 0.050"....verified 9.7:1 static CR...fast ignition curve (21 initial, 38 total)...no detonation on 94 octane, dynamic compression is 165-170 psi. In fact, I just picked up my heads from the machine shop as I'm going to a 10.5:1...

Valvoline VR-1 10w30 here...with my high-volume oil pump I get 50 psi cold pressure and 25-30 psi @ idle when HOT (900-1000 RPM) with the preferred 10 psi/1K rpm climb in pressure afterwards... My main bearing clearances were: 0.0035 and rod bearings were: 0.0018 with 0.012 side to side clearance.

I ground the covers...but since all I had to do was to make elongated U-shaped cut-outs and that was just to the outside lip it actually fit really well with the intake...make a nice job of it and you won't even notice!

I do not own a MSD box, but it's a multi-spark in the lower RPM right? So is the root cause here the fact that the timing light is driven by the spark signal in the wire and most likely either catches the first or the last MSD pulse?

To clarify, my comment was not a recommendation regarding how much porting the OP do, it was merely an illustration of the potential of 596 castings if one were to CHOSE to port for max flow gain. Now, consider that these flow numbers are for a 180 cc intake runner...that's stil a pretty good...

Thanks rumblefish360...yeah, I found porting heads to be one of the more rewarding undertakings...but you are certainly right on the money with the time estimate...it probably took me a good 60 hrs/head and this is already having some experience with using various bits, shaping ports, etc...

Here are some DIY porting results on a set of 596 castings. This was about a 3rd set of heads I ported, pleased with the results. Your are probably not going to go that extreme in terns of the port work though. LIFT I E 0.100 67 57 0.150 99 79 0.200 130 104 0.250 162 125 0.300...

Ahhh sir...you have come to the right place!!! Been doing work with TQs for years now...I have an 9800 series in my coupe as well. I've attached the setup instructions for the matching Carter carb kit, this should get you started. Post some more info regarding your combo and what you're...

Head is the factory iron '596 casting, having gone through a DIY porting effort but with a 3 angle valve job by a competent machine shop. Here are the flow numbers (flowed on SF-600 @ 28" water): LIFT I E 0.100 67 57 0.150 99 79 0.200 130 104 0.250 162 125 0.300...

Well, I'm running a 11/32 stem Manley Intake valve, part# 11826. That is a nailhead (I believe) Severe Duty valve with the under-cut stem. Thanks for the feedback so far guys! I should have the heads off tomorrow so I'm actually looking forward to taking a peek at the pistons tops and head...

Folks, I'm about to pull the heads off of my 360 motor...a bit of a CR bump, and since it's all coming apart and every single book/post implies back-cutting the intake valve is worth it I'm curious if anyone has actually done a before & after check? Say, head flow before and after? Or perhaps...

Carter M6902 pump, no problems here.

I am running the older HE3844AL cam in my 360 motor. 238/244 @ 0.050, .535/.540 lift and 108 LSA. Also running the valve springs they recommended at that time to be used with this cam, those being # 1111. But I ran SpeedPro HT2011R lifters with 0 (zero) pre-load, these are anti pump-up lifters...

I would add to the question: does adding the rear port by-pass (so from one side to the other) improve the water flow in the SB Mopar engine?

Hughes 3844AL hydraulic flat tappet cam here, shifting at 6500 typically, I run anti pump-up lifters with nearly 0 pre-load...that does have a noticable 200/300 RPM extra...anyways, stock bottom end, mind you though all rebuilt with 3/4 main bearings.

You could use Felpro, I would want to double check regarding the port sizing though...the last Felpros I got (1213S-3, GASKET INTAKE, Steel core laminate with Printoseal, 1.16"x2.27" port, 0.065" thick) was for my 360 head ports.

Hang on...really? The only one-piece 360 oil pan gasket that I am aware of is unfortunately for the Magnum motors...can you share the part# please? Thanks!

PM sent...txs!

OK, let me clarify...I am not saying my ET is high ONLY because of bottom end issues....heck, the car pulls fine, but on the street, the butt-meter says that there is definitely more "umph" with the dual plane...and since I'm not WOT on the street I will go with the combo that gives me best...

Could this section not be build up using something like "The Right Stuff" even? I've used that on all my intake mounting jobs, sometimes the bead gets to be a pretty good 1/2" high, never had a leak...and if not, what about cutting out the "blocks" from a new stock replacement seal and mounting...

Great question to ask...I'm contemplating some changes in my own combo to optimize. Here is what I have, a 360 street motor build using Hughes 3844AL cam (238/244 @0.050", 108 LSA). In my Diplomat coupe (3600lbs weight with me in it), re-worked OEM head castings, 9.8:1 static CR, 4k stall...

Same stuff I've assembled here...but I'm curious what valves are you going to run? I have not been able to find out the actual valve length of the long valve W2s in official documentation...and as best as I could tell from on-line references that is supposed to be 5.280", juding by the spec of...

I love the SpeedPro HT2011R pieces...these are the anti pump-up hydraulic lifters, basically you can run your pre-load near 0 (I have done so) and it does give the motor maybe an extra 500 RPM at the top end. Mind you, they can also be a bit noisy when cold...so your call as to what you are...