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Hey KnuckleDuster, what's goin So what's the recommendation for mechanical curve timing/ what rpm should it start kicking in? I haven't personally considered that part before, but it definitely makes sense.

I've got an afr gauge. Best 120 bucks I've spent on the car.

Just an update, 93 octane and a bottle of octane booster seems to be keeping any detonation at bay. I'm also seeing that Austin ranges from 500ft to 900ft of altitude (10.29 at 900ft is comparable to 10:1 at see level), which could be helping as well. I'm currently at 31 degrees total mechanical...

I don't have much experience with a 904, but I have an 833OD and 3.23s. The 4.10s might help, but with 3.23s the split between 1st and 2nd is pretty brutal. Between this and the aluminum case of the OD unit I'm starting to look for a older 833 nonOD trans. That said, I haven't had any issues...

Nevertoofast- can't wait to see the finished product. Good luck with the test and tune.

I'm in west cedar park, not far from Leander at all. My car's definitely more of a driver/ toy. It was my first car, and I've been consistently working on it. Would love to meet up, or do a cruise in!

Thank you very much. I had searched for mopar muscle clubs, but didn't come up with much. Just looking for guys that love to wrench. And nice Dart!

Just moved to Austin area from Denver. Any Mopar clubs/ shows in central Texas, or is Pistons on the Square your best shot? PS nice car!

I think the gas in the cylinder would be more an issue with a cold engine. I ran it up to operating temp before doing the running test, so the fuel shouldn't have had any issue vaporizing in the hot intake. While doing these test the exhaust would make your eyes sting a bit, but the compression...

Exactly, just for a comparison between cylinders showing 155 hot cranking and 175 hot cranking. Running they all show 130, and cold cranking they all showed 180s. I wish I knew why the front lifters were bleeding down. The engine is highest at the front of the car. But I guess it doesn't matter...

I just did a running compression test and all the cylinders were consistent (130PSI). The two high cylinders in the front of the engine were most likely the result of soft lifters as the running oil PSI leveled them all out.

That does make sense with peak lift deteriorating vs duration. I'm leaning towards the lifters bleeding down. I'm hoping that by doing a running compression test the oil pressure would be high enough to compensate for soft lifters.

I did squirt some oil in a couple of cylinders to see if the numbers would change (they didn't), and then ran the engine to get it warm which would have taken care of the excess oil in there.

The only thing I'm really concerned about is the cam lobes starting to go flat on the high PSI cylinders (1 and 2) and reducing duration and increasing dynamic compression which could lead to detonation (I think). I did take the deck slope into account, and I've recorded different static...

Checked out the valvetrain today and the preloads are fine. Even added preload on the intake valve of the high compression cylinder and it didn't change anything. Next I'll try a running compression test and then get a dial indicator/ degree wheel and check the cam timing.

Sorry, just a dash there. My mistake. Pistons are .041 below the deck at tdc.

It's pretty confusing because No.1 has one of the lowest measured static compression ratios- 9.89:1. It also showed 175 psi on the cold cranking test. Per Wallace racing calculator- I should be right at 155 psi with this cam and compression ratio, so I'm thinking it's got something to do with...

I was able to find my notes from measuring compression ratio a year ago. Drivers side head chambers are all around 61cc (they've been milled and have bigger valves). Deck Height .041 in. piston below deck Pistons +5cc Dish Gasket .039 compressed (8.77 cc volume based on website) Per Wallace...

So after warming it up the rear 3 cylinders on each side show 155 PSI. Cylinders 1 and 2 both show 175 PSI, but have the same compression ratio as the other cylinders, so I'm not sure what's going on there.

So I was able to get all the plugs back in and warmed it up before doing the cranking compression test again. This time everything came back pretty close to 155 PSI.

So I did a compression test today. Sorry for the delay, the rental tool kit I got was shot so I ordered a new compression test kit online. The drivers side came back at- 170, 175, 178, 175 and the passenger side was showing 190, 170, 197, 200. Not sure why both sides are 15-20psi different as...

Exactly. Rebuilt the carb, played with accelerator pump adjustment, and switched around some jets. Next step was bigger squirter diameter and possibly putting small holes in the butterflies to help with off idle transition. Strang thing was the accelerator pump was shooting plenty of fuel...

Understandable. I'll run out and borrow a compression test kit from one of the auto part stores around here this weekend and report back.

The engine hiccups and the O2 gauge would spike. Didn't matter how hard or light I stepped on the peddle, happened off idle. Drove me crazy so I pulled the carb.

So what heat range/ plug should I be looking at? I didn't do much research when purchasing the original plugs so I wouldn't trust my starting point.

That's the first time I've considered the vacuum advance coming into the equation. I figured it only upped the timing where there was little to no load, which is usually a safe zone for detonation. Is that not the case? Plugging up the hose is super easy, just trying to better understand the...

Interesting. I guess you need to take a grain of salt with everything you hear on the forums. From what I read 9.5 was the limit for open chambered iron heads and medium cam. I'll give it a shot as is with a better radiator fan and hopefully a closed air system hood scoop with race gas/ premium...

I was just running standard spark plugs. Does the spark plug heat range really play that big a part in detonation?

I'm running an Edelbrock 650 which might be a bit small, but my Holley 750 vac secondary has a flat spot at part throttle (lean per O2 sensor) and I don't want to risk it with the high compression.

So far I'm a fan of TX. They will let me register as a classic which is emissions exempt, vs Colorado where I was one year off (76 vs 75). I used to live in highlands ranch and had to get creative to keep it registered.