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Devin @70DusterDev has a turbo LS in his duster and is up near 800hp and one of those stupid little green filters cost him a bunch of power when it was right on the front of his turbo. I don’t want to quote his numbers for sake of being wrong but it was a bunch. Hopefully he chimes in.

Didn’t know you knew him. I talked to him a while back, and we had a 45 minute conversation just on his intake manifold and what it took to make it work. Very sharp dude.

I think it would be.

I own the magnum that was tested on the engine masters show. It’s a basic 300hp mopar crate engine with a bigger comp cam. On that engine the RPM air gap was tested against an M1, and the air gap was better every where. M1-350hp, 409tq RPM AG- 361hp, 423.3

Maybe I was wrong. @Johnny Mac from blueprint has tested it and it was down more than I thought.

I think (if I remember right) in tests Ive seen the chinagap wasn’t quite as good as an edlebrock but it wasn’t far behind. I’ll see if I can find some numbers.

Yup, this is the second twin turbo 5.9 magnum I’ve done. The first one was on a factory ecu with factory fuel injection. That one on gasoline made 650 for a long time. This one is a little more serious amd is blow through carbureted.

Necessary for what? I’m planning to ask this small block to make ~950 and I think I can make it survive there. I’m not sure where the limit of the magnum block is, hell maybe I’ll find it.

There’s a video of it on the run stand in my thread. I thought you were following. Well, I drug home another one

Straight out of a 2001 dodge 2500

Twin turbo W2 small block magnum 5.9 with a 6 speed. It better be awesome.

And I thought I was being generous at 4500. I added an extra 500rpm because it has decent heads.

I’d bet with an air gap, a 750 double pumper and a roller cam change you could pick up 65hp or so. I bet it falls off a cliff at 4500

Correct, but the piece of piston floating around in there can do some damage.

You have a performer intake on a 418 with trick flows with a 650 carb? I’ll like to change my previous answer, it makes really no difference what camshaft you put in that engine. It will never be what is holding it back. :lol:

That looks to me like a broken ring land due to catastrophic knock or pre ignition which butts the rings. Hard to say what came first the broken piston or the cracked block but it’s a mess regardless. Pistons breaking like that is very common in boosted stuff and it’s always related to cylinder...

I’m much worse now (at 45) than I was as a teenager. My dad wouldn’t let me get out of shape when I was younger. He was military and ran the household that way. I did some dumb **** but never really got caught. All of the really stupid crap (read: expensive) I’ve done, I’ve done as an adult and...

Building currently specifically for drag week stick shift class

That sucks. Whose lifter was it? The Howard’s roller is not quite as aggressive as that one, it might push the torque peak up a little bit and IMO much more suited to what you’re doing with it.

By “over the top” you mean necessary right? It’s a drag and drive car and he definitely drives it.

I look at camshafts a little differently than most people. I’ll change a cam in an engine a week after I put it in if I don’t like it. Most people think they’re stuck with it. That being said, you gotta start somewhere to see what it does, and you could start with a whole lot worse than that...

The grind Howard’s recommended fits the bill almost perfectly for a driver on big tires, low stall, high gears and big big torque. And it will have a nice daily driver idle with the wide LSA. It’s about perfect for what you want to do. If your engine had 12:1 and was in a 3000lb dart with a 5000...

The list of names for the alternates is in the ladies room.

Dang you work fast. Gettin er done!!

Fixed it for you.

I’d cut the divider down about half way if it isn’t already, then port match it and go up the runner about 1 or 1-1/2” and then send it. You will likely not make it any better than it already is. In fact you could make it worse.

This year was fun. Lots of participation and lots of point standing changes. Well done everyone, congrats Budnicks, and thanks @ocdart for keeping everything in check.

LOL no not at all. The Australian/New Zealand heads are actually awesome and deserve good valves. Just the flow difference between a stock intake valve and good valve, like a ferrea or similar, would make replacing them worth it. Even if the old ones were perfect.

@Bobzilla is exactly correct. The factory magnum valves are junk, spend the money you saved on lifters and buy (at least) new intake valves for your awesome New Zealand EQ heads.

I can’t believe no one has said it yet but here it goes. FUCKIN MEASURE THEM! And the bores to determine if they are worn or usable. If they are, disassemble and clean them then stick em in. FYI the lifters in my daily driver have 620,000+ miles on em and have seen 3 different camshafts.