Search results for query: *

I rerouted the fuel line today, because it had a spot that went up a little higher than the tank, and blew back through the line with not resistance. Ran a line into a can and it pumped gas to the carb no problem. Hooked the line to the tank back up and the carb being filled kept it running...

The truck had a 440 that spun 4 bearings. I built a 383 and put the efi in when the 383 went in. It was never ran with a carb, but the mechanical pump is from the 440.

It's a Hughes hydraulic flat tappet. But I'll double check with them.

That was the first thing I checked. Lol

All lines are new, so is the cam and the fuel pump pushrod. I'll try loosening the bolts after I try running it out of a can (hard to get to them)

I was using a high pressure pump for the efi. I rerouted the fuel lines to bypass it when the carb went back on.

I guess if there is a problem with fuel flow from the tank that would explain why the efi leaned out under load as well.

I'll pick up a can on 93 tomorrow and give it a try.

I'll give it a try when the rain lets up. It had no problem drenching me in fuel when I unhooked the high pressure pump though. lol

No difference with the cap off.

Put a fresh built 383 in my truck and couldn't get the efi happy. I got tired of messing with it and swapped it back to a carb. After installing new fuel lines, filter, and putting in a pushrod to actuate the mechanical pump I'm not getting any fuel to the carb. I primed the fuel line before...

I'll see what I can do with mine. From what I've read they weren't in 73's, so I'm thinking someone may have grafted in a 74 wiring harness. I've never had to have the seat belts buckled to start it, and when it goes I loose power to everything.

Thank you. It looks like mine has a redneck bypass done to it.

My brother's 73 Dart Sport has an electrical issue that keeps it from starting sometimes. It's always solved by unplugging and then plugging this one connection back in. I am trying to find a replacement for it since the circuit in it is pretty corroded, but can't find anything online by...

I don't really think it was seized. There was a bunch of grease on the back of it, and I believe it was creating a vacuum that was holding it in place. I'll be sure to get the paint off the hub when I put the 383 in this weekend though, and give it a little anti seize as well.

I got it. You reminded me that I had a pickle fork in the garage and I was able to hammer it between my wood wedges and the flex plate. I got a little scratch on the back of the TC, but nothing I'm worried about. Thank you.

The trans already came off. Otherwise I would have tried using the starter to break it free. lol

I had my transmission rebuilt last year and shortly after the old 440 gave out. I pulled my drive line out earlier today and found that the torque converter is somehow stuck to the crank. I have tried making wedges out of 2x4 and driving them between the flex plate and the TC, but i can't tell...

Yes. I think I said it somewhere in here already, but when I pulled the pan the nuts where half off of the rod and it was not sitting on the crank all the way.

That's what we are running

We took .050 off of them.

It's a 360 30 over. J heads milled to give 9.5:1. That purple can, an ld340 Intake and a 750 vac secondary carb. Its going to be used as a cruiser that sees the strip a few times.

Mopar Performance Purple Camshaft Kits P4452992AE 280 duration and 474 lift.

We pulled out the dial calipers and it's looking to be about 452/458 lift and looks to have less duration than the purple cam (The lobe peaks are much sharper), so we are throwing the purple cam in for this one. Thank you guys for the responses.

We tried contacting Melling. They never answered or called back.

My brother and I are putting together a 360 for his dart. We picked up a short block and pulled the cam out of it to put in a purple cam that we already had. The cam that was in it is new and we were hoping one of you might be able to identify it. We were told it was a melling cam. The...

I have for sale an early 68 383 block and crank. The block is currently bored 30 over. It has a few vertical scratches in the bore. I would take it over a little more to be safe. The crank has not been turned, but will need to be turned .020. $450 obo. Located near Huntington, WV

I'm still looking lol.

I wouldn't want to have you start disassembling your shortblock just to get me a pickup tube.

Anyone have a pickup tube for a stock rear sump (truck) big block (383) oil pan? I stared tearing an engine down and there is no screen on the pickup. I've searched Jegs and Summit, but can't find anything that says it will fit a rear sump.