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Warranty work? If so, the cam lobe and lifter wear look perfect.

Nice pan, but prices have sure gone up. https://www.manciniracing.com/marabobigblp.html

I'm going through an original 70,000 mile 383 engine that has sat for almost 30 years. The cam and lifters look great, but I noticed that 3 of the lifters had orange paint daubs on them. Since several of the lifters had not bled down I took them all apart for cleaning and re-installation...

Another satisfied DOT 5 user.

A stock/super stock tear down with an off-the-shelf big block a-body header is something I wouldn't look forward to.

Torque converter flash and stall are two different things.

I need the galvanized removable bucket for the passenger side.

Looking for a 67-76 A-body RH passenger side headlight bucket. Will buy a RH and LH if seller would rather not break up a matched set.

Thanks. Somehow I ended up with 2 left side housings.

Are the headlight housings/buckets different from the driver side to the passenger side? The sealed beam headlight doesn't want to clock right on my passenger side fender???

Did the unsilenced air cleaner on a 68 GTS with a 383 have black wrinkle finished paint? Would it have a red or an orange pie tin?

Standard reply - I'm only certified to work on 1960's mopars. That's a tip from your uncle Lar.

I fought the leaky T-stat housing battle with a recent big block build. Tried everything mentioned until I found that the Felpro gasket was de-laminating and leaking through the layers. Finally tried a gasket from "Real Gasket" company for $11.00 and problem has been permanently solved...

1977 400 cylinder to connecting rod symbol: #1 = octagon #3 = star #5 = square (really a light strike - possibly a puzzle piece?) #7 = bell #2 = spade #4 = club #6 = heart #8 = diamond

The symbols mean a later model 440. I'll dig up my notes that I have for a 1977 400 that I tore down and rebuilt. The symbols that correspond with my cylinders may or may not apply to your 440, but it might be a way double check your findings with bore/piston measurements.

Don't know about the small block stuff, but when sourcing kickdown linkage parts for a big block A-body I found that a manual shift valve body was cheaper. :(

You are right about the passenger side. The #6 plug is too close to the shock tower for anything other than a 90 or a short 45. On the driver side the #7 can't use a 180 because the steering shaft is too close. Ideal situation for me would be this: #1, #2, #3, #4, #6 = 90 degree boots. #5...

Numbers 7 and 8 are the worst for sure. These might do the trick if the boots aren't too long: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/acc-9002c?rrec=true

I like the ceramic sets, but I need a combination of 90, 180, and 45 degree boots. I think it's because I have straight plug heads.

Way too young at 33 years old.

Thanks. Ceramic boots might be the way to go. Some tubes are so tight that I don't think there's enough clearance for a sleeve over a regular boot.

Just wondering what plug wires/boots people like with their Try-Y headers in a big block A-body. Some tubes are pretty close to the plug. What brand and combination of 90, 180, and possibly 135 degree boots have worked for you?

Chrysler is the one that gave NHRA the spec, and actually..........they were all over the place. I tore down one that was untouched at .005 - .009 positive.

Use ARP rod bolts at a minimum. It's basically an old super stock build except they were limited to flat tops and an AVS carb.

Quick question: If Nick's 383 has that little of exhaust valve to piston clearance and a lot of intake clearance, doesn't that indicate that the cam install is retarded?

The 68/69 HP was + .020

Exactly. The 383 showed up at his shop with .030 aftermarket forged flat tops.......so less compression than a stock HP.

Only thing I see there are stroker pistons?

As I recall the aftermarket piston selection for the 383 isn't very good. Uphill battle for Nick I'd say.

Seems to me that initially the problem began with the oil. This would explain why my Direct Connection cam bought and installed in the early 80's performed flawlessly with regular oil changes until some point in the early 90's. These were good parts destroyed by the quietly mandated lower zinc...