Search results for query: *

Thank you, I think I will try that one out. and by the way nice car! Getting my car painted real soon here and red was a strong consideration for it.

I just dont see how it could be a grounding issue if all of the lights work except for the brake light. Im thinking the TS switch is the culprit, and yes RedFish, the cam was centered. I checked for voltage right out of the column connection

it has to be the ts switch, I have 0 voltage at the wire going to the left brake light but I have voltage at the right side when applying the brakes.

Normally the left side brake light is out, but when I connect an old TS switch that I have lying around, all of the lights work except for the right side brake light.

Hi guys, decided to finally fix the brake light issue on my 68 Barracuda. All of the exterior lights work except for the driver side brake light and the rear flashers. I have another column from a 68 A body and swapped the turn signal switch in to see if that was the issue. With the other column...

If it is a numbers matching car and you want it to be period correct then by all means do the 67 lettering, but I like the cleaner look of the 68-9 better. Both are kick-*** though

what a jerk hahaha i hope he atleast apologized for guiding you back! assuming you didnt sock him right in the face first haha

what happened to you? haha

thats not a bad idea, thanks! my buddy is a fabricator so i asked if he could but he was thinking around $200 for his shop to do it. man thats a costly screw up!

So after having driven the cuda on a 1700 mike round trip to Tucson Arizona for the Roadkill Ziptie drags, I let it sit for several weeks since the heater isn’t working and I don’t have carpet yet so the open trans tunnel makes for a breezy ride. So the other week my buddy wanted to Cruise it on...

It’s a 68 barracuda with 340 and stock tank. I’m not sure about the vent, but I thought you were not supposed to do that because it’ll crest air bubbles in the tank right before it go to the pickup. Maybe I can run it returnless

Cool! And so then how would I go about a return line?

Thanks for the response! Would I need to get a new sending unit? And is the 5/16 kind going to be ok?

no one has has any idea?

I just bought a fitech unit and fuel command center off my buddy yesterday, never opened it but I’d rather just run an electric fuel pump. I want an in-line pump so I don’t have to remove the fuel tank. I think the throttle body has an integral fuel pressure regulator? So then what all would I...

Is the 78 amp alternator a direct bolt in? and did you need a new regulator?

Thanks Billgrissom, I’m not exactly sure on the thermostat, either 180 or 185 I think, I got it awhile back, but I’ve been driving the cuda the past couple days and it stays at 180-185 driving and then after 30 min or so of driving yesterday, I let it idle for about 10 min and it didn’t get...

Knuckleduster, have you tried seeing how many amps your fans pull? But other than that looks like we have a pretty similar situation. Trailbeast, thank you, didn't know it would be such a high spike, drove the cuda around a nit yesterday and didn't even get above 180 until I let her sit and...

Nice! I was starting to look into the headlight relays a few weeks ago, but got distracted when some other parts arrived and I was too excited to put them in. Do you have a good write up for the headlight relays? And also sorry for my ignorance with electricity, but what exactly is an amp spike...

Thanks trailbeast, I was thinking the exact same thing about running all of the accessories at once. If it's dark and raining the wipers, headlights, and tail lights will all be on, but most likely the fan will not even be activated so it really come down to finding out how much the contour fan...

Hey guys, the cuda is ready for the road now! But before I take it out too far, I need to address the cooling system. I’ve got aluminum 26” radiator with a 17” clutch fan. I’ve let it sit for about 15-20 min running while I tuned on the carb and set the timing, and in that time got it to 210...

Thanks guys! Just fired the 340 up today and it's runnin good! Charging at 14.7v at WOT, I think I'm also going to install headlight relays next

What do you give up on? The one field terminal threw me off, sorry if that is what you are referring to, I just did not know what to do about that, was thinking maybe a piggyback blade would work but you guys confirmed why it would not, that is why these forums are so great!

Got the new alternator coming in tomorrow, thanks guys! Already have the new connector, VR, and the new wire spliced in and ready!

Looks like I have the wrong alternator then. Pretty sure I need a 20153 which is a 60 amp with 2 field terminals. I wonder if my regulator isn't for a 60 amp then? And can I solder the new wire from the alternator to the existing blue ignition wire where it will be cut for the new connector? And...

Here's the 70 wiring diagram. So looks like just add a wire from the Field on the altternator into the IGN blue wire at the VR. Now can I piggyback the Field terminal is the question?

The new alternator only has 1 field terminal, so I put a piggy back blade on it? So just solder the old blue wire to the new blue on the connector and green to green? And then splice the new wire piggybacked on the field terminal to the blue wire coming off the VR?

Hey guys, I added an MSD box and am putting speakers in my 68 cuda so I decided a 60 amp should work well. I do not have AC, electric fuel pump, or electric fans. I also have Done the MAD bypass and added a 8awg wire from the alternator to the starter relay. I told the auto parts store that I...

Cool thanks, got a part number? Looks like I 'll need a new hose

Just picked up an aluminum 26" radiator yesterday and it came with a fitting for a temp probe near the top Hose. I have a LD340 right now so currently the temp gauge is in that port, so I had to take my heater hose off that for the temp gauge. Now that I have this radiator I was hoping I could...