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I like to use these small 6pt hex ARP bolts (444-2001) on mine as it means you can get an open ended wrench on when things are getting tight next to the runners. I also shorten up the threads of the bolts for #3 & #6 runners to allow them to just slip past the runners and get started on the threads.

I’m using a CVF 8 rib serpentine kit on my 360/410 SBM - no air but power steering. Fit, alignment and finish are all first class, thoroughly recommend their product! Used a Saginaw type PS pump and Std rotation as well so no need for RR water pump.

Best wishes and hope for a speedy recovery from Australia!

Much ado about nothing!

Nice, make sure you consider visiting Adelaide while you’re here, this was the home of Chrysler in Australia and is still home to some of the best Chryslers this side of the Pacific!

I use these fender grippers - bought them from Classic Industries, highly recommended!

Hopefully these images help a bit - fit, finish and alignment of my CVF kit was first class. I’m running a Mopar 7 blade 18” fan and clutch with good clearance everywhere although I believe my Aus VF Valiant is a bit longer in the guards than a Dart and therefore allows a little more rad...

Felt a bit strange having my car out of its natural habitat (my shed!) but it seemed to be at home with a chance to finally run it in properly, get a bit of a tune on it and stretch its legs a little!

Yes, all good and no real offence taken, oh and by the way you‘re still spelling “Australians“ incorrectly! :lol:

If you’re going to give us Aussies a misguided serve, can you please at least spell “Australian“ correctly!

One little thing that I’d check is that if you had a backfire, the MAP Sensor may have been taken out then and this will lead to the issues that you’re now experiencing. Not sure if the Sniper lets you see manifold vacuum with only the key on but if it does, put a vacuum pump on the MAP sensor...

Well I guess he did say SBC!

Correct

Yes, that bolt is in a terrible position on RHD cars. Best option if the engine is coming apart is to remove this adaptor, block off the centre bolt, then drill and tap the untapped gallery to 3/8”npt. Then remove the other gallery plug and you will have two 3/8” npt inlet and outlet ports that...

Thanks, this is a good idea, will just need a cooperative inspector!

Sounds like a good plan, thanks!

In Aus the vehicle body number was originally stamped into the top of the RHS inner fender. Our local registration authority needs to identify this number as part of their inspection to register my car. The issue I have is that the numbers have become totally obscured due to the priming and...

Thank you, decoding the body number on the fender should tell you a lot about the vehicle.

The inner fender tag referred to in an earlier post is actually a specification data label.

This is what the original compliance/option plate should look like on a VG

The body number is stamped into the RHS inner fender/guard and the ID/Compliance/Option code plate should be riveted to the RHS of the firewall, sounds like it might be missing from this vehicle though. Body numbers can be decoded here Valiant Decode Centre | Vin Decoder | PlumKrazy Garage Aus...

As a frequent visitor to FABO I’ve always wondered why there isn’t an Australian site within the regional boards. I see plenty of Aussies on here and given our strong affinity with A Body Chryslers i would have thought that there’d have to be some interest. Maybe with a bit of feedback and some...

Without doubt and as long as we also keep in mind that excessive spring pressures during run in and poor engine building practises were killing lobes way back then (25+ years ago) as well!

Ha Having worked in the valve train industry for some years, too much installed height was actually an all too rare yet desirable luxury. More often than not, customers would be fighting a losing battle when using a big cam and stock heads with low/std installed heights by using low spec...

Been making some progress with my car lately, feel like I’ve finally got it running well now and have also just finished the interior.

Yes, the engine pretty much stayed in the US location with the Aus cars so headers are super tight on our drivers side! While aftermarket headers are available, they are typically tri-y style - I went with a custom fabricated tuned length set with 3” collectors and system for this build.

Here’s the 410 fuel injected small block that I built in my Australian built 1970 VF Valiant Hardtop

….mmm not so sure that Mackay is made in Aus anymore, like most things I think they’ve been made offshore for some time now.

Stock style Tanks Inc Tank, relocated springs, tubs and 3” tailpipes on my 70 Valiant (AKA Dart) Hardtop

I just hope that my car’s done before I am!