Search results for query: *

Maybe 10 years ago a Elgin e935p (230-480) cam and lifter set from competion products was 89 or 99 bucks on sale.

The only 318 build i was involved in was 340 heads and intake with a crane fireball cam, sounded good but an old lady in a wheel chair could of beat it I a 1 block race. We were young kids and didn't have a clue, remember that like yesterday, ugg!

Hughes has a very good couple of pages about installing your cam and lifters and spinning the cam with a speed wrench. He uses maybe oil on the sides and cam lube on the bottoms, mark each lifter and turn away, they all must turn or else. Really a good read, always thought it was overkill but I...

The ups trucks use to run 4bt’s with turbo 400 trannys, that would get out to a Chevy tranny as a option, I put a 4 bt in a dodge 1/2 ton, turbo 400 with a gearvender behind it.

Left them on the rods and flipped them to the other bank. Ya, not sure if it’s worth it but hey.

How about a mid 70’s Camaro stub? Close on track width, front steer(more room in the back for down pipe, could build a shallow but longer oil pan). Put impala splindles and hubs on (5 on 5 bolt pattern, same as c10 pickups of that era, 5 1/2 springs are very common in racing so good choice of...

Ed Hamburger told me back in 1983 that flipping the pistons on a stock piston was worth I believe 7 horse power, we did it a lot with no other proof than that.

I ran this camshaft and its solid lifters in another motor. Block, crank , acouple of the rods and pistons were junk. I should have been clearer. Came out of a friends circle track motor that he blew and was tired of it taking up space, he told me what was in it but never minded to tear it...

I put this in a 360 circle track motor, previous owner had it in one also. Had a victor 340 intake on it and a hole in the block, think I gave $150 for it, which the intake was worth that. Ended up being a good deal. It did take afew chunks out of the oil pump drive gear but it cleaned up enough...

First racecar motor I built,340, dc 284-484 cam, keep pushing pushrods through the arms. Went to salvage yard and they had a 273 with adjustable rockers. Set of pushrods and I never had that problem again with that motor.

I bought a blew up mopar for the intake one time, shortblock was garbage, 340 heads were good except for afew bent valves, had good rockers on it. Couldn't get the cam gear off without pulling it. A piece of blown up parts got into the oil pump drive and locked up the cam, sheared the cam key...

As AJ mentioned I also had a module (hei) that the polarity was wrong, pulled our hair out for hours on a brand new motor. Guy that worked for me mentioned it ( I had never heard of that ),flipped the wires around and all was well, good luck I hope you get it figured out!

Pinto spindles? Would need to slide the rack back, speedway has many options for them hub wise, many ball joints with longer, shorter, pins to get your height right.

Set in Omaha ne with a air cleaner, $850 I believe on marketplace.

If your reared is complete and out it is very easy. Put tires on it and run a tape measure across the tread ( like checking toe ) rotate the housing 1 complete turn and watch your tape. Best if you have a helper. You may have to put the tires on top of blocks for clearance of pinion, brake lines...

The Chevy rockers I used were comps, needed studs, guide plates, hardened pushrods, didn’t really get that warm fuzzy feeling doing all that. I never did check the actual ratio on them, I still have the motor, maybe this winter I should take a look at that.

Would it be possible to measure them and see if maybe grainger or fastenal could get something?

A magnum rocker will yield 1.6 or better at the retainer, shim up a lifter solid and check with a dial indicator, even with pushrod angle and all. The only thing I had trouble with was the factory pushrod, they would bend at low 6000 with a 325 spring and 550 or so lift. I’m sure the lobe...

Ever thought about running stock magnum rockers? Because of rules I had to run them, never ever had a problem with them. Put Chevy rockers on 1 motor and can’t complain but didn’t see any difference, not sure about noise, we ran open headers on all of these motors.

71 or 72 ish, Winchester 94 30-30 $79.00 . Ithaca lever action 22 single shot $19.95 both blue light specials.

If you have a John Deere dealership close go get some caps for a 4440 tractor. 3/8 stem can buy 1 or 2 to try, they use to be like 2 bucks each.

When I was younger I worked in a parts store uptown, old guy came hobbling in telling me how bad his back was hurting. Thought to myself it can’t be that bad, few years later I was in the same boat, definitely feel for ya!

Listen or read Dave Ramsey, very easy to follow. Some people don’t think much of him but I read several of his books and listen to him on am radio periodically. Most of his advice deals with people in your same boat.

When I was a pup many outlaw tractor pullers used these, Jack Goulder from Hooper Nebraska was a local guru who was a ace on them

Exactly, if 1 saddle is .003” low the rest have to be cut to match, can’t just take alittle off a cap. I’ve even seen an oil starved motor that didn’t even spin the bearing but was close to it, move the block from just heat. The whole main web gets out of wack.

If your saddles are all good why would you machine it? Only the caps deform?

Where the block is out of wack determines what’s taken out , boring or honing, getting off track, I best shut up! Carry on folks!

.010” bearing is for grinding the crank journal .010”, no way to do it that I know of, not an excuse for this engine’s lackluster performance though.