Search results for query: *

Look over the cage really well, if you're wanting to run it on the track. Make sure you fit, i.e. the hoop isn't too far forward, halo isn't too short, etc. Check the welds on the cage, look at cage requirements for the ET you want to go. Chassis work isn't cheap if you can't do it yourself...

Check your inbox @Mr GT

Sent you a PM

Have an NOS oil filter adapter, aluminum, still with the original box from Trans-Dapt. comes with bolt, gaskets, but is missing the threaded piece for the filter atachment. $90 plus shipping from Savannah, Missouri. Will be at the Mopars Invade MoKan race and swap next month, could deliver there.

Ah of course, you make a great point. I'm just over here trying to find a solution for a problem that doesn't exist haha. This is a track-only, 3/4filled block, just wanting to do everything I can to make sure I can regulate temp.

Right, machining the cover down is out of the question, as I have the midplate and front plate locations locked in. Machining the cover would cause the front plate to be too far forward, so I'm thinking about tig welding a dam around the coolant inlets and outlets so no coolant can bypass the...

I got to thinking about my front engine plate and water pump as I assemble my 340. The front plate will sandwich between the timing cover and electric water pump. I'm intrigued about possible turbulence or air pockets that may happen in the void in the cover where the mechanical pump impeller...

Sent you a message, thanks.

Set of 4 15x7 Rallye wheels, 4.5" bp. Comes with two center caps, no trim rings. They're mounted on some old but barely driven on BFG tires- 275/60s on the rear, 225/70s on the front. I can dismount if you don't want the tires. Asking $800 for the set, located one hour north of Kansas City, MO...

Just as the title says, I'm missing a single bolt for a Suregrip I'm building. Left hand threaded 3/8-24, 2 3/4" long. Holler if you have one laying around. Thanks!

This is a 1966 833, with 26 spline output. Everything you see in the first pic- Smallblock bell housing, clutch fork, Flywheel, tunnel hump, pedal set, ball studs, etc. The Z bar isn't correct for A body, but could probably be fabb'ed up to work. I may have an A body Z somewhere. I also may have...

Yeah, I'm a bit torn... Not wanting to spend three times that on an actual Fluidamper branded balancer. I have an ancient TCI Rattler I can use, I just don't like the sound it makes when you shut it down, people in the pits will be thinking I've got rods a knockin'!

Anybody use Speedmaster's fluidampers? https://www.speedmaster79.com/Mopar-SB-318-340-360-7.25-A-LA-SFI-Approved-Harmonic-Balancer-Damper?page=1 I'm tempted...

I found this pulley in my stash, hoping someone can tell me what years it came off of, etc. It's a three groove, cast iron, only markings are "C168" and "mapco". Bolt pattern appears to be asymmetric. Thanks for the help, and it's for sale if somebody needs it.

The Flying H near Odessa, MO is an hour from me, I'm excited to see how it comes along. I have a feeling it'll be really nice once they get it up and going. Not far from Topeka so I'd bet most of the Topeka regulars would make the drive.

Making some slow progress. I've been having some fun with my beadroller making firewall panels. They're about ready to weld in.

She sits much lower in the back now, added tube frame after taking out the old heavy box frame. Afco single-adjustable coilovers. I have some Alumastars I'm going to swap onto the front that'll match The Billet Sp. wheels better too. Hoping to get a free weekend soon to finish welding up the...

Basket Case Bracket Car I think I copied the link right. I need to update it, I've back-halfed it since my last post, and made some progress on the engine build.

Hey yall, looking for opinions and insight. I'm building up a 340 for a tube chassis 87 Charger. There's a thread on here on this basket case that I'm slowly making progress on. It'll be around 13:1, iron heads, running on E85. Prior build had the simple crankcase evac to the collectors from the...

Beautiful car! I like the backwards facing alternator mounting with the front plate. May have to incorporate something similar in my L body Charger build.

That's what I'm starting to figure out... I thought there would be some newer beehives or double springs that would fit the bill for a smaller lift solid roller cam. May have to re-think my build if this is the case.

Hey gzig5, any progress with your build? I'm about to go through a similar process of finding the right roller cam and springs to work with my stock heads with stock length valves, and curious if you found some good springs.

Back from the chassis shop! Fab dude was able to use the front suspension clip I brought, and tie into the all new moly cage and floor structure. Mid plate is tacked in and needs finish welded, Front plate also needs final attachment work, but the driveline is all squared up where it needs to...

I hope you find someone close, if I weren't on the other side of Missouri I'd offer up some grunt labor. I have two Sweptlines needing some body and paint work, and would love to learn the skills in my free time (which I have little). It's a shame no one wants to work anymore. Most shops...

Floor and front frame is out, no turning back now! I'm curious how much weight I'm getting rid of swapping over to moly tube and the new suspension.

Thanks for taking a look, I'm going to hold out for some 12" wide wheels though.

I'm about 3 hours from there.. not terrible. I'd make the drive over paying crazy shipping

Yes dual pattern is fine, sending you a pm now.

Looking for a pair of 15x12 wheels with 3.5" to 4" backspacing, 5 on 4.75" pattern. I prefer some Weld Draglites to match my current front runners, but will consider other styles. Located in nw Missouri. Thanks.

I bought the front and mid plates from Mancini. Mid plate is a Comp. Engineering, front is AR Engineering. To make the front plate work, I had to cut down the fuel pump ear on the timing cover. I made a cover out of 3/16 and tig'ed it up. AR Engineering showed some kind of spacer to prevent...