Search results for query: *

Look into PrimeWeld welders. I bought their Tig225 over a year ago. AC and DC, pulse settings, works flawless and great customer support from others I've talked to that have needed it. For less than $1k you get a really nice welder. I bought mine through Weldmonger when they had a sale...

Maybe all this snow and ice has him wanting a 4x4?

For fuel line, I've used HotRodFuelHose.com, it's PTFE lined so you have no worries about rubber deteriorating over time. Cut the lengths you need, add your AN fittings, it looks great and I've never had a problem with it.

Sent you a pm.

Thanks Brian, it was sad seeing it drive away, but it has gone to a good home!

Thanks, I hate to sell it, but ran out of room so something has to go. It's a slant 6 w/ 833 od, perfect cruising truck.

Come buy mine, I'm an hour from KC :p

More photos

Located in Savannah, MO, north of Kansas City. Selling my '80 D150 with '74 grille. Slant 6, 4 speed overdrive, runs great! Newly upholstered seat and carpet, earlier door panels, all new weatherstriping, window molding seals. Lowered with van lower control arms and drop shackles, recent...

This is a new set taken off of a pair of Edelbrock performer rpm heads, no run time. I don't know the specs, but you can read up on the 60779 heads for info. Believe they're good up to .575 lift and have 1.46"diameter. $100 plus the ride, located in northwest Missouri. Can meet near St...

Well shoot, I totally missed that part!

I skimmed through these posts and saw the timing and carb suggestions which are all good, but have you told us what torque converter you're running? A proper converter matched to your engine will make a huge difference in that bottom end 'feel'. Get that stroker up in the rpm range where it's happy.

Surprised to see it didn't want to veer left :rofl: I love hearing those r5's wind up.

Look over the cage really well, if you're wanting to run it on the track. Make sure you fit, i.e. the hoop isn't too far forward, halo isn't too short, etc. Check the welds on the cage, look at cage requirements for the ET you want to go. Chassis work isn't cheap if you can't do it yourself...

Check your inbox @Mr GT

Sent you a PM

Have an NOS oil filter adapter, aluminum, still with the original box from Trans-Dapt. comes with bolt, gaskets, but is missing the threaded piece for the filter atachment. $90 plus shipping from Savannah, Missouri. Will be at the Mopars Invade MoKan race and swap next month, could deliver there.

Ah of course, you make a great point. I'm just over here trying to find a solution for a problem that doesn't exist haha. This is a track-only, 3/4filled block, just wanting to do everything I can to make sure I can regulate temp.

Right, machining the cover down is out of the question, as I have the midplate and front plate locations locked in. Machining the cover would cause the front plate to be too far forward, so I'm thinking about tig welding a dam around the coolant inlets and outlets so no coolant can bypass the...

I got to thinking about my front engine plate and water pump as I assemble my 340. The front plate will sandwich between the timing cover and electric water pump. I'm intrigued about possible turbulence or air pockets that may happen in the void in the cover where the mechanical pump impeller...

Sent you a message, thanks.

Set of 4 15x7 Rallye wheels, 4.5" bp. Comes with two center caps, no trim rings. They're mounted on some old but barely driven on BFG tires- 275/60s on the rear, 225/70s on the front. I can dismount if you don't want the tires. Asking $800 for the set, located one hour north of Kansas City, MO...

Just as the title says, I'm missing a single bolt for a Suregrip I'm building. Left hand threaded 3/8-24, 2 3/4" long. Holler if you have one laying around. Thanks!

This is a 1966 833, with 26 spline output. Everything you see in the first pic- Smallblock bell housing, clutch fork, Flywheel, tunnel hump, pedal set, ball studs, etc. The Z bar isn't correct for A body, but could probably be fabb'ed up to work. I may have an A body Z somewhere. I also may have...

Yeah, I'm a bit torn... Not wanting to spend three times that on an actual Fluidamper branded balancer. I have an ancient TCI Rattler I can use, I just don't like the sound it makes when you shut it down, people in the pits will be thinking I've got rods a knockin'!

Anybody use Speedmaster's fluidampers? https://www.speedmaster79.com/Mopar-SB-318-340-360-7.25-A-LA-SFI-Approved-Harmonic-Balancer-Damper?page=1 I'm tempted...

I found this pulley in my stash, hoping someone can tell me what years it came off of, etc. It's a three groove, cast iron, only markings are "C168" and "mapco". Bolt pattern appears to be asymmetric. Thanks for the help, and it's for sale if somebody needs it.

The Flying H near Odessa, MO is an hour from me, I'm excited to see how it comes along. I have a feeling it'll be really nice once they get it up and going. Not far from Topeka so I'd bet most of the Topeka regulars would make the drive.

Making some slow progress. I've been having some fun with my beadroller making firewall panels. They're about ready to weld in.

She sits much lower in the back now, added tube frame after taking out the old heavy box frame. Afco single-adjustable coilovers. I have some Alumastars I'm going to swap onto the front that'll match The Billet Sp. wheels better too. Hoping to get a free weekend soon to finish welding up the...